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no fuel in 89 tbi sub?

bftank

bftank

1/2 ton status
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here's the short story bought sub with blown 350. replaced with 366 big block. all sensors from 350- installed on bb and kept tbi with the 700r4. wasn't getting fuel to tb. replaced the fuel pump relay, fuel pump and filter. still no fuel double checked that all connections were made for grounds and sensors. will fire if i put fuel in tb. any ideas as to possible cause? i fear i'm going to have to start looking for wiring gremlins. thanks.

ps im a newb to forum really enjoy the format
 
Do you have fuel up to the throttlebody and the injectors aren't just pulsing? Let's determine this first. Loosen the fitting and see is you have fuel.
Tarey
 
The biggest problem i see is that a 366 is a tall deck engine so the SBC distributor won't work in the 366 and unless you have a FI distributor installed the ECM can't get the signal it needs to allow the fuel pump to run.

What distributor is in the 366?
 
4X4HIGH said:
The biggest problem i see is that a 366 is a tall deck engine so the SBC distributor won't work in the 366 and unless you have a FI distributor installed the ECM can't get the signal it needs to allow the fuel pump to run.

What distributor is in the 366?
Click to expand...

x2 just what i was thinking. and why 366 bb ? :eek1:
 
no fuel in lines to the throttle body, it does have the original suburbans distributor as it uses the same a regular bb or sb chevy. i used the 366 because its what i had laying around and its a torquey son of a gun. eventually want to change it out to 3.9bt cummins or 4v53t detroit. but thats beside the point. the motor came out of my 74 chevy 1/2 ton.

would a faulty ignition control module have anything to do with that? i didn't think it would because it fires when i put gas in the tb.
 
update

took out my distributor plug going into icm is fried and the wires from the icm to rotor are cracked and split. i don't no if this is my problem but it can't be good. should i replace distributor or try and rewire it?
 
bftank said:
no fuel in lines to the throttle body, it does have the original suburbans distributor as it uses the same a regular bb or sb chevy. i used the 366 because its what i had laying around and its a torquey son of a gun. eventually want to change it out to 3.9bt cummins or 4v53t detroit. but thats beside the point. the motor came out of my 74 chevy 1/2 ton.

would a faulty ignition control module have anything to do with that? i didn't think it would because it fires when i put gas in the tb.
Click to expand...

If you have the original SBC distributor in this supposed 366 BBC then you don't have a 366 engine. 366 and 427 tall deck engines use a distributor that is .400" longer than a SBC or a standard BBC.
 
sounds like someone needs to run there casting #S of the back left side of the block and realy find out.
 
the point of this thread was to figure out why fuel isn't getting to the tb not to argue about my block. i haven't checked the numbers on the block true, but i have yet to see a non talldeck big block with dual thermostats, 2" inlet and outlet water pump. this block also required custom bracket for the alternator because the regular bb brackets wouldn't match up. the reason the sb dizzy fits is because the mounting hole is sunk in to match the extra height in the block. the first pic is mine the second pic was one i found on the internet labeled 366 in c60they are pretty unusual looking blocks but i could be wrong.

any ways thanks for the input so far. i checked for power at fuel relay with key on and nothing however, i do have power at ecm 1 but not ecm b which would make sense because that is powered by oil switch.

thanks again

DSC00253-1.jpg

c60 366 eng.jpg
 
That is definately a tall deck engine. So i've never heard of anyone machining the intake manifold so a standard distributor would fit but if there's enough material in that area of the manifold it could certainly be done. So with that said and you having the FI SBC distributor in place you must have a bad ignition module not sending the signal to the ECM therefor your fuel pump isn't getting power. Replace the module and you should be good to go as long as those wires you spoke of earlier are also repaired.
 
Just to get some clarity...how do you know you have no fuel in the lines? Pressure test? Crack them and turn key to run? You've powered the fuel pump via 12V off the test lead on the fuel pump relay to ensure the pump does work? Not doubting your abilities, just need to make sure how you arrived at the conclusion before assuming anything.

Agreed on the bad wiring. Make sure it's repaired. :)
 
alright thanks for the feed back, ive got the ignition module replaced and found out that napa sells the replacement icm wires so dizzy is good as new, replaced cap and rotor while i was at it. i should be able to install it tomorrow morning with fingers crossed.

as for testing for fuel. i did reopen the fuel lines at the tb and cycled ign. dry as a bone. also had someone cycle ignition while listening for pump to turn on, nothing. put power to priming circuit with a 18 gauge wire but wasn't really professional about jumping it ( just shoved one end in the wire and touched the battery with the other) no noises from the pump so i moved on. if the new icm doesn't work i'll go back and more proffessionally power the primer.

for the 366 distributor, the intake is cast with the depression in it for the distributor. if it would be helpful to other users i can post better pics and describe the parts that i have used to make this motor work in my trucks i'm not an expert with them just have some experience.

thanks again for the feedback
 
366 info

more distributor stuff. the guy that helped me put in the motor told me that some of these tall deck motors had hex shaped oil pump drive shafts. which could be why this distributor fits. as it has the regular style drive. so maybe oil pump was swapped to a regular bb oil pump and drive. the distributor i took out of it when it was in my mud truck was a petronix hei unit for a regular bb. in measuring the two they matched up so i threw it in. well carefully placed it.
 
Pics of the back of the intake showing the distributor area would be helpful for me to understand what's going on there. Like i said, a tall deck distributor is .400" longer than a standard distributor so something had to be changed or modified with your intake for a standard distributor to fit. i'll have to look in my parts book tomorrow and see if there is also 2 different intermediate shafts used with a tall deck engine. The oil pumps are all the same for sure.

I just like to see and learn about things i've never seen or experienced before. I store that knowledge in my internal memory bank. :D
 
i just took pics of the dizzy area this morning ill see if can get them off the camera by friday eve and on line
 
alright, re installed distributor still no juice to fuel relay. went and talked to my man of experience at the local napa. and on top of there not being any power to relay there is also (never was, hadn't checked yet) no power to headlight fuse, instrument light fuse, parking light fuse, ecm b fuse, or dimmer fuse. he said it sounds like i have a bad fusible link and suggested checking link on alternator for juice w key on. nada checked wire all the way back to juction box on driver side of firewall nothing all the way. both of the 30 amp power fuses are still good as well, and the fusible link that goes from the fuse block to the junction block on the firewall is still good. i guess my next move is to take the junction block apart and see if i got some corrosion built up or something
 
Do you have 12 volts on the junction block nearest the starter side? If not there is another fusible link wire down by the starter that could be bad.
 
got it running last night.:D problem was that there was no power to the alternator.:doah: usually there is a wire that goes from the j block to the alternator w fusible link. for some reason this wiring harness didn't have one. wierd i know and believe me i dug around and pulled wire out of the casings to come to this conclusion. the wire in the harness that went to the alt came from where the harness goes into the cab and had no juice to it. then there was a wire that came back out from the cab to the jblock that did have power. so i made a 12 gauge wire that went from j block to alternator and everything works. now i need to figure out if i need to put a fusible link on it or if the link on the j block is good enough.

oh and i did have power to the starter side of the j block.
thanks for all your guys' help & ill still post those dizzy pics for ya
 
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