CK5
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No Power

So here is what I see around that area.
1. black "fat wire" one red going into one side 2 out of the other. (same thing that is comming right off the starter.
8448588208_45854d06e3_m.jpg

2. Some yellow wire connections between that bracket and the black thing.
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Also the black thing is marked 16. Is that the fusible link?


Looks like someone has been in there before. Your fusible link is is the part of the wire where that yellow crimp connector is, above the black factory splice. Then the other link is the red section right next to it. When mine went, I cut out the bad sections and spliced in the new links. I think I had about 1/2 inch of useable wire above that black splice.

On the diagram that Fordum posted, you can see the junction block on the right side. To the left of it, it has the fusible links then 4 Red 3 wires and a Red 2 wire from there. The Red 2 wire goes to your Battery and should show voltage before the black splice. The two red wires going into the black splice, one comes from the Alt and the other I don't remember (Fordum's diagram is cut off). Again, you should check for voltage on that side. Then check directly at that junction block. If no voltage is at the block, then you have narrowed your damaged section down. ;)
 
I cant see the diagram. Anyone wanna email it to me? [email protected]. So is the black part a piece of the fusible link? Or is it the actual wire between the black piece and that bracket on the firewall?
I cut about an inch above the black thing on the starter, and removed the yellow connection above the one on the firewall. Then I spliced the 2 14ga fusible links I got from autozone and reconnected it all. Still no power. But I'm not sure I did it right. I didn't replace that black piece. Also my battery has one ground. It goes from the battery to the frame above the headlights. The red goes straight to the starter. Is this proper? Sorry I know I sound like an idiot. It's just the experience I've had working on cars hasn't gotten into electrical until now. I really appreciate all the help and time you guys are giving me.
 
I am trying to remember where exactly I cut on mine.

How much voltage do you have at the battery? Then touch one of the studs at the junction block (looks like the larger one in your pic 1). Its a straight shot from your battery to there in that Red 2 wire. If you have voltage at your battery and nothing at the junction block then that other fusible link is bad. I can't really tell in the pic but it looks like its the center lug on the junction block and the fusible link section should be right next to the yellow crimp in your second pic. Its the wire just to the right.

Z
 
Got the voltage meter on the battery. It was reading 3. But I swear the other day I had it fully charged before this whole thing started happening. Either way, I have it back on the charger and will plug it up when it reads 12. Now, that being said, I have replaced a fusible link on the starter. And I have replaced one fusible link on the firewall. Autozone only had 2 and the other one on the wall feels good. Actually it feel like the PO just 86ed the Fusible link and ran the wire straight into that bracket. So I will add a link to that spot. I have a lot more work to do on it, I just need to get it up and going now.
 
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Charged my battery. Hooked it up and got power!!!! Then when I went to start it, my cousin who was helping me noticed it sparking and the ground wire was heating up again. And my brake fluid was boiling.
 
Boiling brake fluid.....................

I'm stunned.

Gonna go out on a limb here and suggest that might have something to do with your problems..............

Any wires close to the aforementioned brake fluid???

I'm going to be intermittent for a while. Computer mods going on.
 
Definitely check that entire section of harness by that junction block. You've got something shorting out on your Master Cylinder or somewhere close by.:doah:

Z
 
Here is what I'm thinking, something is touching something it is not supposed to be touching. It's like high school. All kinds of loose wires under there. Just going to start capping them tomorrow and see what happens. But I have power. That makes me feel so much better.
 
I cant see the diagram. Anyone wanna email it to me? [email protected]. So is the black part a piece of the fusible link? Or is it the actual wire between the black piece and that bracket on the firewall?
I cut about an inch above the black thing on the starter, and removed the yellow connection above the one on the firewall. Then I spliced the 2 14ga fusible links I got from autozone and reconnected it all. Still no power. But I'm not sure I did it right. I didn't replace that black piece. Also my battery has one ground. It goes from the battery to the frame above the headlights. The red goes straight to the starter. Is this proper? Sorry I know I sound like an idiot. It's just the experience I've had working on cars hasn't gotten into electrical until now. I really appreciate all the help and time you guys are giving me.
there should be a large wire from the - side of the battery to the engine block. Your truck is trying to ground through the brake lines. Its prob pulling all the current through them. show us some pictures of the battery cables and where they're attached to. Thats prob the wire that burned up. I live in the springs. I'm out of town right now. should be back late next week if you still need help.
 
I have the battery unhooked but the ground goes from negative battery terminal to the frame above the headlights.
8449865816_dfaa2ac4f2_m.jpg

The Positive red wire goes straight from the battery to the starter
8449865982_debd0f4ed8_m.jpg

8448780717_d64691fd36_m.jpg
 
And by the block.... You mean the bracket my alternator is mounted on? I'll get that done tomorrow.
 
The best way is if you have access to another threaded hole on the end of the head that isn't being used. But iv'e bolted ground to bracket before and it works fine. You will also need a ground from block to firewall, then make up another ground for the core support for lighting.
 
Yep, that ground is going to be your main problem I think. The heavy cable should go to the block, and on a lot of trucks there is a small pigtail attached to the battery lug that goes to the body of the truck about where that wire is hooked.

The starter is your heaviest current draw by far. So it has to have the best power connections.
The ground is just as much part of the power supply as the positive wire. And the starter gets its ground from being bolted to the block.

But, the rest of the truck needs love too, so you have grounds going to the body and the frame.
They just don't need to be as heavy. You could run battery size cables there also, too big is OK, just a waste of money for the copper.

When you bolt the ground cable to whatever part of the block you use, make sure the part you are bolting it to is nice and clean with no paint, rust, or grease.

The idea that the brake lines are supplying the ground is a good one. Makes sense to me.
 
Backtracking a little, Fordum, earlier we were speaking about wiring harnesses and you suggested the 10205. I had looked at that one but it is for the whole car. I was honestly planning on just doing the engine harness. Hook everything in the engine back up to the fuse box under the dash just like stock. From there everything looks ok. I'm not sure if my dome light works or not but other than that I think I could save the $611 on the entire chassis harness.
 
Inspect your brake lines very well once you get this resolved. Hopefully they haven't been weakened in any area due to the extreme heat they endured. As for the engine harness, you have a couple good self pull yards in Denver. For about $30 and your time, you can have a good engine harness for your truck. Just be sure to get the same year as I've noticed the pin outs on the driver side bulkhead have been different.
 
I've been to both u pull and pays and the lkq in aurora. They definately have some am chevy trucks, but on the ones I saw the wiring harness looks about as bad as mine. I just can't see spending the time to change it out only to swap it with one just as old. I just kind of feel like if I'm going to go through the trouble, I'd rather out in all new wires. But once again, I know not very much on the subject. So please, if I'm thinking about this wrong and 25 year old wires are just fine let me know. Thanks again guys. I was so happy to at least have my headlights come on yesterday.
 
I've been to both u pull and pays and the lkq in aurora. They definately have some am chevy trucks, but on the ones I saw the wiring harness looks about as bad as mine. I just can't see spending the time to change it out only to swap it with one just as old. I just kind of feel like if I'm going to go through the trouble, I'd rather out in all new wires. But once again, I know not very much on the subject. So please, if I'm thinking about this wrong and 25 year old wires are just fine let me know. Thanks again guys. I was so happy to at least have my headlights come on yesterday.

You'll see an "unmolested" truck come through now and then. 25 yr old wires will be fine in most cases. Especially in our dry climate of 5000-7000 ft. We don't have near the corrosion everywhere else has. The wiring in my '67 deville still looks very good. Get it patched up and working for now. If it continues to have problems or you just cant stand the thought of the "hacked" harness, then swap it out. Maybe someone has a photo of where the main engine/body ground is on their rig? I'd post one if I were back, but I'm still out east.
 
Today I capped any wire that was exposed under my hood(at least all I could find and I dug in there) and wrapped any unused sensor with electrical tape just in case. Then I bought new ground cables and went straight from the negative to the block. I did use the alternator mount which I plan to change. And the blazer fired right up. I was so happy. Let it run then cut it off and tried it again. It tried to turn over for a second and then I let off the key and it continued to try on its own for a solid 5 seconds. It stopped. I tried it again and it fired on the first turn. Now this time nothing got hot but I still don't like this. Any thoughts in it. Starter solenoid?
 

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