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No spark

K5.83

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Sep 19, 2013
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Crookston, MN
I have a 1983 K5 Blazer with no spark. I have replaced the spark plug wires, rotor, cap, coil, starter, alternator, battery and battery cables. What else could it be? I'm about ready to have it towed to a shop, but would rather avoid it due to high cost of labor.
 
Most common GM failure for no spark is a bad ignition module. Easy to change and about $35-40
 
Check to see with a test light if 12V is getting to the "BATT" wire on the distributor cap with the key in the "run" position...if it is,then hook the test lamp to the "TACH" terminal (key off) and ground the lead on it,then crank the engine over with the key--it should make the light flash on and off if the pick up coil and module are working...

It could be any of the 3 parts that have failed,the coil itself,the pick up coil inside the distributor,or the ignition module...most common failure is the module,both that and the pick up coil can "fail" intermittently though,making it tough to say for sure "it was that" when you replace either one,and it runs for awhile,and you think its "fixed",then it craps out again...

I prefer genuine GM ignition modules,the cheaper aftermarket ones can be flukey or lack the dwell advance circuit and not deliver best performance..
I used to grab used ones at junkyards,and I always kept a complete "spare" HEI distributor with me in case my truck croaked somewhere on me...
 
Nothing at Batt with test light, flashes on and off at tach. What do I do now?

I found a green wire which I'm guessing is for the aftermarket tach, but no (+) switched wire at "batt." How do I remedy this? I have no clue where to run a wire from. :dunno:

*Edit: I found a pink wire not hooked up to anything. Tested good with test light. Fits in distributor perfectly. :waytogo: Now to hook it up and try it after I repair the torn up wire.
 
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That pink wire (about 12gauge) should be the one for the "BATT" terminal in the distributor..should have a clip to hold it to the cap,it may have snapped off and came out on its own somehow...once you plug it back in it should fire up..

If there was a green wire it probably was for a tach...but the test lamp should not have flashed with the "BATT" wire off,if you hooked it to the "TACH" terminal in the cap (not the green wire)..--with no "BATT" wire,no power would get into the distrubutor,nothing would make the test lamp flash..

Anyway,hope it was just the unplugged wire..
 

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