no start elec problem

[big_truxx]

I just bought a 75 4x4 chevy. today I went to start it and nothing. I wigled the steering column a bit and it cranked slightly then nothing and I could not for the life of me get it to do it again. also I had no power to the radio. I was wondering if the starter solenoid going out would cause this (has headers) as I have a brand new starter convieniently in my room. I was also thinking maybe a wire in the steering column was shorting out, or maybe the key cylinder went bad (can take the key out when not in the locked position ) also it was an auto diesel at one point and is now stick gas.

whole truck specs in case curious;

75 k10 silverado 350 built slightly (has a little lope) 465/205 3/4 ton 10b front and 14bff rear (ratio will find out this weekend i hope if I can get it running again also think it has lockers) 6" lift (I think) and rolling on 38.5" swamper sx's front are at wear bar rear are new. exhaust sounds good

thanks for any help.

 

[diesel4me]

try jumping the solenoid...

If you can make it crank by jumping the solenoid( + batt cable to the small stud nearest the oilpan)--that will tell you if its a wiring problem at the ignition,neutral saftey,etc...(since it was an automatic converted to manual,the neutral safety might be the problem--try moving the steering colum collar while holding the key on "Start"--it might start right up!..my truck did this,so I just unplugged it and jumped the wires together..

I'm assuming you checked the usual stuff like corroded battery terminals and bad cable connections, low battery,etc..no radio could just be a bad fuse or its wires,or maybe it just dont work!--not a good test--try the headlights and see if they dim when you try to crank it..

 

[Ryan B.]

yah, usually you have a couple things on one circuit so when a fuse blows you lose power to more than one accessory. this should be a flag to check your fuses. it might be that your ignition key and radio are both going to that same fuse. is that the only other accessory that you've lost now?
Grab a voltmeter or test light and probe both sides of all the fuses.

Leaving it in park and key on, getting under the truck and shorting the starter with a screwdriver to get it to start has saved me a couple of times.

Also like stated above, this is assuming you have 12.4+ volts at the batt, so it qualifies as good.
Also just to point out the obvious, when diagnosing no start (no starter cranking) do you hear *click* or no click? no click means its not getting 12V down to the S terminal on the starter, coming from the key.
If you heard a click you can be sure your key is working and its engaging the solenoid, and your problem lies in the + or - battery cable, connections, or excessive resistance in the solenoid itself.

 

[big_truxx]

this is realy amusing. I found out the very same day (later after dark) that I had a loose ground strap Was too simple to fix quickly thanks for the help