CK5
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No start when hot...PICS UP

Yeah, that sounds good, I think I am going to give that a shot. Not sure how old the rubber is but doesn't look in bad shape or dry at all yet, but it is going to be replaced with metal eventually
 
What about pulling a factory fuel line from a truck at the junkyard that went to a qjet. Cut the end off that went to the carb and run a2short pieces of fuel line with the filter in the middle.
 
Well I made myself a metal fuel line today and no more steam, its getting gas now, but still don't want to start when hot.

Then I played with the timing some and got her to start and got tons of power back. Played with it some more and got her to start three times in a row, then went for test drive, got back, shut her off, and no start.

Can't figure it out, getting gas, getting spark, runs great when running, won't start back up when she's hot. I'm afraid to drive anywhere because I don't want to be stranded if she won't start....
 
mudbog42 said:
I've tried that multiple times

try starting fluid- see if the problem is a fuel delivery issue. If it starts with starting fluid and remains started, you probably have a fuel delivery issue.

Im know absolutely nothing about carbs, but I had a vehicle which had problems starting (when cold, or hot). but it was TBI. Starter fluid would start it, turns out the gas was real old, not enough octane to get things moving...
 
Just throwin this out there

Would a high torque starter make a difference for hot starts, not really sure on what those are specifically used for:thinking:
 
mudbog42 said:
Would a high torque starter make a difference for hot starts, not really sure on what those are specifically used for:thinking:
Still sounds like vapor lock to me. Had it on my carb'd 76. Here's what I did to fix it (at various points during and after a road trip):

1. Install an electric fuel pump (I used Airtex) as close as possible to the gas tank.
2. Remove the mechanical pump and block it. Block plate available from Summit
3. Re-route the hard line fuel line away from the exhaust manifold - take it up by the firewall to the carb.
4. Because overkill is good, wrap all parts of the fuel line that may come anywhere near anything warm with Tec Wrap (insulates the line).
Replace all fuel filters and the sock in the tank.

I did some other stuff trying to eliminate other issues that might be the cause but when all is said and done the above fixed the problem. My starter was never the issue, tho I'd had starter problems in the past. An AC Delco starter installed fixed the problem I had with 3 other starters. Also have a heat shield on the starter.
 
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Typically retrofitted due to heat soak issues on the stock type starters like we have. All around a better design, but you only need to change yours if it cranks slow when hot only.

When it won't start, with the air cleaner/engine off, look down (be careful) the primaries, and work the throttle once. Do you get a strong jet of gas? If not, you don't have any gas in the float bowl. (or your accelerator pump is messed up, which won't affect starting)

WHY you don't have gas would be the next question. Bad pump, bad needle/seat in the carb, bad/mis-adjusted float, leaking pickup in the tank, bad tank sock filter, and so on. You could always try tapping the carb lightly when it won't start, see if that helps.
 
I've checked it after I installed the new fuel line when it wouldn't start and it gets and good stream of gas out of the jets now. Also I just replaced that carb. But I will check it again just to make sure.
 
Ok now I am getting slow cranking at the beginning, then it will kick in. I hooked a voltmeter to the battery and it starts out at 12.38, then while cranking drops to 8, 6, 8, then once it passes 10 volts she starts up. Would this be battery, starter, or cable???
 
Most likely cable and/or the connections. You can have great cable, but if the connections are bad, you will have problems. Clean all of the high power conenctions (battery terminals, alternator terminal, starter lug, and ground strap connections). Make sure you have good grounds between the battery/engine/frame/body. Any high resistance such as a bad cable or connection will cause a drop in voltage in a high current drain situation.

This low voltage could cause your coil to not fire the plugs strong enough in the combustion chamber.
 
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