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nobody has installed poly bushing in a lift kit & paid attention to torque?

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come on guys I know somebody knows the answer to this!

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Jeff, I never used a torque wrench on mine. I'd guess I torqued them to about 40-50 lbs though. I used locking nuts too...

Rene
 
i have been told that you do not want to get them real tight because it might limit travel and wear the bushing out faster.on my truck i tightend my down so that you could turn the bolt head with a little pressure probly around 25-35 flb.hope this helps
 
thanks for the info guys - I kinda suspected that if I torqued these as tight as the book on the factory bushings I'd be WAY to tight.

I think I'll try 35-40 (if not a little less) with some good lock tight (probably blue).
 
On rubber, I torque them pretty tight, since nothing is supposed to slide anway. With poly, I leave them loose enough that I can spin the bolt with a box wrench without too much force. Then I set a second nut on the bolt as a jamb nut and tighten that one to the first on really good. It seems that most poly bushings are wider than the sleeves inside them, so for the spring to flex, the outsides of the bushings have to slide on the inside edges of the shackles

Unfortunately, All the grease and care and everything hardly helps anything since I have Rough Country springs /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
I like the idea of that double nut! sounds like a really good idea, and I think you are right on how to set these so they will flex.
 
Tighten them as tight as was posted in that other post (100 &amp; 115). The bushings are suposed to rotate around the sleeve (not the sleeve around the bolt). If you don't tighten them enough it will oval out the hole. If you think they are too loose you could make a longer sleeve.
 
They're supposed to be torqued to 50 to 55lb.
I think 100 to 110 will make the poly bulge out, which you don't want.
Boss
 
60 lb/ft. That's what I was told by some guy at an off road design shop in Colorado............/forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
I'm kinda surprised there are soooooo many different answers to this question. I posted this in the ORD section - wish Stephen would drop buy to settle this once &amp; for all.

getting move obvious why the first post was ignored.
 
The spr9ng eye bushings are sleeved, right?
So, your not really torqueing the bushings down, your torqueing down the sleeve. (the sleeve -should- be slightly wider than the bushing)

What-ever it takes to keep the sleeve inplace, you do not want the sleeve to rotate or move (front to back} at-all. It might take 70 ft.lbs, might be 100, doesn't matter. The bolt is strong enough to take the torque, the sleave is "pinched" in place, and the bushing should be lubricated, so torque it to what ever you think. (It would be better to over-tighten it than under)

I'd put your attation to more important details. Like makeing sure the suspension is neutral, -before- tightening. (jounce/bounce the front suspension to make sure every thing is torqued at it's ride-height)
 
thanks Eric...

actually I have never retorqued this suspenion, and that is exactly why I put this post up. I was planning to loosen all the bolts, bounce it, and then torque it down.
 
I dunno about what is supposed to move on what here.
It sure looks to me as if the sleeve and bolt do the movement and the bushings remain still.
I am with the super loose and double nutted theory.
 
Fair enough,
I don't think a guy would want the sleeve moveing around at-all.
Stoping a 5000 lbs truck, repetedly - is alot of force directly on the front spring eye (70-80 % of the brakeing force is done with the front brakes), This force, I would think, might oblong the bolt hole if the bolt torque was insufficiant, and allowed the sleave to move/slide back and fourtth.

I think Stephen said it was 50 or 60 ft/lbs (?) .
 
I'm with you on this...if I wanted the bushings to rotate easier I would make a sleeve just a bit longer than stock and tighten it down real good.
 
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