bigblazer87
1/2 ton status
When I first put on my 12" lift and drove it around, it had a terrible vibration and grinding sound from 25-45 mph. I put in some 6* shims, and all vibrations were gone. I love it 
.
.CK5
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Noise from rear end.......the 14ff, Fixed!!! pg3
- Thread starter Leper
- Start date
Leper
1/2 ton status
I forgot to mention that I put the overload back in and added a zero rate. Damnit, didn't even think of that.
I will use a shim to point the pinion back at the tcase, like it used to be. Or I might finally take advice from Koldsimer(that is going to hurt) j/k and point it like the books say. I guess ther is always the HAD shafts???????
I will also recheck the pinion preload, I've heard that from some on another board.
Any more ideas???
I will use a shim to point the pinion back at the tcase, like it used to be. Or I might finally take advice from Koldsimer(that is going to hurt) j/k and point it like the books say. I guess ther is always the HAD shafts???????
I will also recheck the pinion preload, I've heard that from some on another board.
Any more ideas???
I fought this samething on my old Towrig/DD/Wheelin rig.
It is driveshaft angles making the u-joints cause there to be gear noise.
The noise is coming out of the transfer case but the cause is the poor driveshaft angle.
If you had a CV shaft the pinion on the rear axle could point at the T-case. Without it the T-case and rear pinion need to be running at the same angle to stop the vibes.
Driveshaft rpm also plays a big part in this. If you had say 3.08 gears in your axle then switch to your 5.38. You need to increase the driveshaft RPM a good deal to get the same wheel speed. The driveshaft RPM now shows that the angles are not dead on because it spins so much faster.
It is driveshaft angles making the u-joints cause there to be gear noise.
The noise is coming out of the transfer case but the cause is the poor driveshaft angle.
If you had a CV shaft the pinion on the rear axle could point at the T-case. Without it the T-case and rear pinion need to be running at the same angle to stop the vibes.
Driveshaft rpm also plays a big part in this. If you had say 3.08 gears in your axle then switch to your 5.38. You need to increase the driveshaft RPM a good deal to get the same wheel speed. The driveshaft RPM now shows that the angles are not dead on because it spins so much faster.
And if you dont take care of this, it will damage your bearings in the case and the diff.
Leper
1/2 ton status
I just got off of the phone with Jesse at HAD and he said the same thing. Its calles "gear chatter". So, as soon as I can come up with $650.00 I will solve my problems once and for all. I could fix it cheaper, but I'm geting to the point that I want it done right, and a HAD shaft will be best, long term IMO.
Thanks for all of the input guys. It still amazes me what a 25.00 a year can do. CK5 to the rescue.
Thanks for all of the input guys. It still amazes me what a 25.00 a year can do. CK5 to the rescue.
Leper said:
I sure hope thats front and rear shafts.
Leper
1/2 ton status
I bumped it some. And it includes a 1410 yoke for the 14FF and the flange for the 241, and joints and shipping.Chaddy said:
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Chaddy said:
Nope that is aboot right for a shaft from Jess. I know its cliche but ya get what ya pay for. I have never heard of one of his shafts breaking from power of rocks getting em. The only one I heard of was exceeding the operating angle of the CV on a front shaft and the binding killed the CV. Deffinatly not a craftsmanship issue.
Ira
OL BLAZER
Registered Member
bigblazer87 said:When I first put on my 12" lift and drove it around, it had a terrible vibration and grinding sound from 25-45 mph. I put in some 6* shims, and all vibrations were gone. I love it
I was wondering now that it income tax season I kinda wasnted to lift my blazer 12" but I dont want to lose the fwd . I see a lot of really lifted trucks without their front driveshaft hooked up.What are these shims and where do they go if you go up 12"?Not trying to hijack this thread ,just wondering if I can go with a big lift and what it takes .
G
goldwing2000
Guest
You can't really shim a front axle very much. You only have so much to go before your caster goes negative and it becomes unsafe.
If you have to shim it more than that, you'll need to either cut and re-weld the "Cs" or drill out and re-weld the tubes.
For a 12" lift, you'd almost definitely have to do one or the other.
Another option would be to clock your t-case downward to decrease the angle on the front shaft. That will only help so much, though.
If you have to shim it more than that, you'll need to either cut and re-weld the "Cs" or drill out and re-weld the tubes.
For a 12" lift, you'd almost definitely have to do one or the other.
Another option would be to clock your t-case downward to decrease the angle on the front shaft. That will only help so much, though.
bigblazer87
1/2 ton status
The shims are on the rear axle, just to clarify.
I've got a front driveshaft hooked up, and the angles aren't bad at all on it. It's got the shims that come with the Superlift kit, and new front and rear CV driveshafts from a local shop. It cost a little over $1000 for both, but it was well worth it. I don't get any chatter or vibrations, even when I use 4WD in the snow. But I think if you've got a shorter TH350 and a 203, you might run into some issues. My 700R4 and 241 are a bit longer for the front driveshaft, so it doesn't have as big of an issue concerning angles.
I've got a front driveshaft hooked up, and the angles aren't bad at all on it. It's got the shims that come with the Superlift kit, and new front and rear CV driveshafts from a local shop. It cost a little over $1000 for both, but it was well worth it. I don't get any chatter or vibrations, even when I use 4WD in the snow. But I think if you've got a shorter TH350 and a 203, you might run into some issues. My 700R4 and 241 are a bit longer for the front driveshaft, so it doesn't have as big of an issue concerning angles.
