Green Monster
1/2 ton status
I'll measure the angles tomorrow. Called the driveline shop and it's about $500 to go CV......ouch.
CK5
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Noise from t-case
- Thread starter Green Monster
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Could be driveline. I'd take the shifter stick off first and see if the noise is still there. Seen a few over the years where the stick itself chattered due to a worn pivot bolt. In fact, I added rubber dampers (basically, shock bushings) to my twin sticks as they were it transfering odd noises into the cab at certain RPMs.
Similar noises also come from 205's when the idler gear doesn't have enough preload where they will make a noise under coast and light throttle tip in as the gear bounces around.
Similar noises also come from 205's when the idler gear doesn't have enough preload where they will make a noise under coast and light throttle tip in as the gear bounces around.
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Ok looks like my angles are out of spec. T-case to driveshaft angle is 9.8, driveshaft to axle is 5.8. So my operating angle is 4.0. As I understand it, according to the Tremec app, is that both angles should be less than 3, and the operating angle should be less than 2. Standard driveshaft, not CV. What do you think?
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
I noticed the Tom Woods document says you can go up to 15 degrees, but may have a little vibration from 45-55. If that's the case, can I put a 5 degree shim in the rearend to bring it to 10.8 in the back, giving me an operating angle of 1 degree? Or is that setup too steep and I'm better off going CV?
If you want to try fixing it on the cheap try some steel shims. Otherwise you'll need a CV shaft and some shims to point your axle pinion at the T-case.
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Thanks. Any thoughts if 9-10 degrees of angle in each is too much?
I would try it and see what happens. If all seems good, then you only have to keep and eye on them as far as longevity.
I think that trying things out is sometimes cheaper than a "sure thing" set-up. (CV shaft in this case)
I think that trying things out is sometimes cheaper than a "sure thing" set-up. (CV shaft in this case)
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Thanks, I saw some 4 degree shims at ORD for $40 so I'll try that.
Starting with angles matched is good, often you end up with things that aren't just right working out. Dropping the T-case a little is not a bad idea, if can drop that T-case side ujoint operating angle a little and decrease the elevation change on the driveshaft overall. My '88 burb ran about 7 degree operating angles and would start making some noise at 68-70 mph so it wasn't too bad to drive. Different 'cases are more or less tolerant too. I think anything with a slip is a bit more tolerant and any of the chain drive cases are a little more tolerant. i had a SYEd 241 in the '88.
Are you working on a K5? Generally with a blazer we just say put a CV on it from the start.
Are you working on a K5? Generally with a blazer we just say put a CV on it from the start.
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the help, yes it's a K5. I ordered the shims from ORD, figured I'd try the $40 fix before the $500 fix. It doesn't really vibrate much at all. I can feel a slight vibration taking off, and then as everyone noted above, the noise I'm hearing is a vibration. So hopefully with matching the angles at about 10 degrees it will fix it. That will give me an operating angle of zero. And it will be well below the limit suggested by Tom Woods Driveline, which is 15 degrees each.
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Well, that didn't work. Added the shims, and I think it actually got worse. So it's a CV now for $500+. DAMN IT.
That sucks...
Sorry man...
Sorry man...
