Non-Cv Front Drive shaft?

[trollporter]

I'm looking into converting to a non-cv front driveshat because of length and angle problems caused by adding a clocking ring. I'm wanting to build my own square driveshaft but need to find a 4 bolt flange style yoke that will bolt to the front output of my np241. Will one out of a drivers side drop IFS truck work? Is there anywhere else that might sell one?

any help on this would be great!

thanks, troy

 

[big83chevy4x4]

yep, the one from a fullsize IFS truck will fit. i have seen some IFS trucks with a CV and others that are not.

 

[u2slow]

The 88-98 IFS trucks used non-CV front shafts. Early ones were flanged, later ones were just a yoke. Flange pattern is the same as the older CV type... we used to recycle damaged CV flanges to make replacement shafts for these trucks.

 

[smokkey1]

what about using a front shaft from a ford bronco not sure of the years but I know they came with 208's that are clocked from the factory.

 

[Canadian Trailblazer]

I took apart my CV joint and cut out the ball and socket and middle portion. Ground it for clearance and, voila. El cheapo, 'high clearance' single ujoint, flange style front d-shaft. Its been in there for a few years now.

 

[trollporter]

Thats kind of what i was thinking about doing.

thanks,troy

 

[trollporter]

What size U-joint did you use after cutting the CV? I'm running a stock 1310 @ the pinion yoke, will that same size work?

thanks, troy

 

[trollporter]

Ttt

 

[trollporter]

Back TTT please

thank,troy

 

[u2slow]

The saginaw CV uses a S44 joint... not a 1310. There is a mixed-cross conversion joint though.

The old Spicer CV uses a 1310... but then that's not the flange style you are after.

 

[trollporter]

Well I finally found the u-joint I was looking for. If any one else needs to know the PN# is (Advance Auto) PDQ 2-3011. Using this u-joint eliminates the factory internal plastic ring and replaces it with the inside c-clips.

For anyone doing this be sure when you cut the cross pieces off of the flange and yoke(formally part of the CV-joint) that you grind the inside face of the yoke ears smooth where you cut it off. Because if you didn't cut close enough you'll never get the inside c-clips in. It's also a good time to do any clearence grinding.

troy

 

[thedrip]

I did the same thing 2 days ago, except I only used the flange side of the s44 (3011) ujoint, I used 1310 on the other side of the upper ujoint, the joint is a little more expensive, but if I ever find a 1310 yoke for a 30 spline output, I dont have to remake my driveshaft, and then it'll all be 1310s up front. Of course, I'd like to redo the whole front in 1350s to match the rear... and then a doubler so I'd need a new shaft any7wa, etc etc etc

 

[smokkey1]

have any pictures?

 

[Chaddy]

I just clocked my 241c and had to get a 2 piece carrier bearing super spline to correct the angle .......400$

 

[trollporter]

I did the same thing 2 days ago, except I only used the flange side of the s44 (3011) ujoint, I used 1310 on the other side of the upper ujoint, the joint is a little more expensive, but if I ever find a 1310 yoke for a 30 spline output, I dont have to remake my driveshaft, and then it'll all be 1310s up front. Of course, I'd like to redo the whole front in 1350s to match the rear... and then a doubler so I'd need a new shaft any7wa, etc etc etc

Do you have a part # for this joint?

thanks, troy