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Noob axle question

86k5Blazer11

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Hey, I'm looking to replace my 10 bolt axles with some dana axles. I'm rebuilding my 700r4 and from what I've heard, with the gearing on my current axles, the 35's will be burning my tranny out once a year. I just don't know much about axles. What are some decent axles I should get for the front and rear. And what gear ratio. I'll be wheeling alot, mostly mud, I need the truck to be okay going 65 though. Please any tips/ suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
 
Hey, I'm looking to replace my 10 bolt axles with some dana axles. I'm rebuilding my 700r4 and from what I've heard, with the gearing on my current axles, the 35's will be burning my tranny out once a year. I just don't know much about axles. What are some decent axles I should get for the front and rear. And what gear ratio. I'll be wheeling alot, mostly mud, I need the truck to be okay going 65 though. Please any tips/ suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Lots of gear ratio calculators around, google or search here.

It's not so much that you want Dana axles in place of your GM ones ... you just want bigger ones.

You could do well with a set of axles from a 73-87 3/4 ton pickup or Suburban. The rear will be some variety of 14-bolt (not a Dana, but a GM), with eight lugs. This means you'll need to change wheels.

The front will be either a Dana 44 or another 10-bolt (which are basically equal in strength) but will be eight lugs to match.

My choice would be to find a 14 bolt full floater, as opposed to the lighter duty semi-floater. Search here or google, LOTS of info on the 14bsf vs 14bff.

-- A
 
Thanks, could I just leave my 10 bolt in and get the gear ratio changed by a shop to 4.10? How expensive would it be? Do front and rear gear ratios have to match?
 
Thanks, could I just leave my 10 bolt in and get the gear ratio changed by a shop to 4.10? How expensive would it be? Do front and rear gear ratios have to match?

Yep, they have to match, or one set of wheels is trying to turn faster than the other. Assuming you have traction, the earth is less compressible than your drivetrain, so you lose :haha:

Seeing as the axles out of the aforementioned 3/4 ton truck would prolly have 4.10:'s already, it costs the same to get your 10b's regeared, or get a set of 3/4's. (Now, the nickel and dime stuff will add up ... but it's worth it, really!)

-- A
 
Also you can get just the hub assembly off the 3/4 ton 8 lug and install them into the 10 bolt.if you want to use your exsisting front axle. Thats how idid mine. I found a 14bolt ff for $100. You find them everywhere. I found the hub assembly at a wreckers for $50.
 
i got 4.56s and 35s with a 700r4, if i were to do it again i would go a lil bit deeper yet, but its good if your just street driving all the time.
 
im running the 37's with 5.13 gears and it puts me right back to stock rpms at freeway speed.I wish i could have gone a little lower though.
 
4.10 gearing is a good match for 35 inch tires. If your motor has alittle extra horse power that's a plus.................but keep in mind also that you can compensate horsepower for gearing. I know a few guys who run bone stock motors........and run low gears (4.56 4.88) and can still turn 38 inch tires without a problem. For a DD......you probably would be happy with 4.10 gears.
 
I have a 14 bolt and 60 in mine with 4.11s in 'em. I run a 38 inch tire, and I will be regearing asap. Looking at 5.13s. Right now, I haven't touched overdrive in te 700r4 in a month. Go as low as you can. If you ever get bigger tires, you dont want to have to regear again, cause it is pricey. I got quoted 3000.00 to put 5.13s with ARBs installed....
 

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