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noob lift help

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k5noob

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Ok I have been working for toyota for 5 years so I am not a noob at working on cars but this is my first 4x4 I have a few things I need answerd.

I have a 1981 blazer with a stock 350 it has 33 12.50 with no lift so they are rubbing I want to trade these out for 36 13.50 I know that I need 6inches of lift so I am going to do 6 inch lift springs in the front and shackle flip and 1 inch blocks with 6 inch shackles in the rear and also rancho 9k shocks.

what I need to know Is is there anything i need to change such as brake lines steering things like that?

thank you for any input that anyone gives me.
 
for a 6" lift, u need longer brake lines in the front and a longer brake line above the center of ur rear axle. also with a 6" lift you MAY need a longer driveshaft. if you dont. then you will go through u joints every couple months if it is daily driven.so a rear CV shaft is a good idea. the CV on the front driveshaft at the transfer case has to be ground for clearance so it will be able to get to the angles that it needs to without binding....i think thats it...
 
Definitley longer braided brake lines and a drop pitman arm for sure. Possibly extended bump stops as well, or limiting straps.
 
dbabicky said:
Definitley longer braided brake lines and a drop pitman arm for sure. Possibly extended bump stops as well, or limiting straps.
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o wow, brain fart.:rolleyes: ya u need a raised steering arm. u CAN do a drop pitman, but a raised steering arm is the most common.
 
what size of raised pitman arm will I need. and what is a good source? I want to thank you guys for the quick help this is really a great forum I will post pics of my progress
 
The raised steering arm is designed for 4-6" lifts, they are available from most any big suspension manufacturer (rancho, skyjacker, procomp, tuff country etc) they only come in one size. I have had them on a few k5's I used to own, I think the last one I bought I got through Summit Racing. Just so this makes even more sense, the steering arm is the "C" shaped arm that attaches to the top of the driver side knuckle with 3 studs, stock one curves down wards and the raised one curves upwards.
 
ok this has helped alot I also have a 14boltff in the garage i am going to be putting in. is there a conversion u-joint i can use for my drive shaft.
 
yeah i have a 1990 and i used the napa 447. i believe that is the conversion joint. also look in to axle shims. thats what i need to do to get a better pinion angle. mines not too bad but needs to be fixed so it puts less strain on the u-joints. also with the 6 inch lift your front shaft will be pretty much at the max you night want to get it lengthened an inch or 2 so it wont drop out at full flex. and you will have to trim those fenders. i have 37's on mine and yeah i need to. its my next project once i finish sealing up my transfer case. my rear shaft is long enough but a future investment will be a better cv one. ask me if you have any questions. the only difference in my rear is that i have the 4 inch shackle flip with the standard 4.5 shackles. 2 inch leaf springs and a one inch zero rate. it sits pretty much level but the 6 inch shackles would level her out.

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The front is barley flexed and about to come in contact with the fenders. i bought a few cut off wheels just need to find the free time to do it. maybe this weekend.
 
thank you for the info I am takin the blazer to my work next friday. so that I can put a jacobs ignition on and tune the carb up and give it a oil change. I will be ordering the shackle flip kit this week and the 6 inch springs. your blazer is what i am looking to do to mine.
 
k5noob said:
thank you for the info I am takin the blazer to my work next friday. so that I can put a jacobs ignition on and tune the carb up and give it a oil change. I will be ordering the shackle flip kit this week and the 6 inch springs. your blazer is what i am looking to do to mine.
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make sure to get tuff country, not rough country springs...they r at the opposite ends of the world for ride quality. rough country springs ride like an excavator and tuff country ride real nice.
 
I agree with shaun tuff country ez-rides are the way to go. Also i got mine from topguncustomz.com. real nice to work with and i think itwas a pretty good price and didn't have to buy a package deal. I love the stance and height of mine not to high for DD and pretty capable on the trail.
 
dfl701 said:
Superlift isn't to bad. I run their 4 inch springs
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Superlift also manufactures a driveshaft spacer for the front driveshaft. Depending on where you go lengthening a drive shaft is going to be expensive $$$, so you might want to look into there spacer. As far as springs go check this link. lower the spring rate the better the ride:D

http://coloradok5.com/springratetable.shtml
 
this is so much good info from everyone i dont know how to thank everyone. I didnt even think about my drive shafts.

will it help my ujoints if i angle my diff?
 
k5noob said:
this is so much good info from everyone i dont know how to thank everyone. I didnt even think about my drive shafts.

will it help my ujoints if i angle my diff?
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most 6" springs come with shims already bolted into the spring pack, so just put the thick part of the shim towards the rear of the truck and it will kick up ur pinion enough to make ur u joints happy. if it doesnt come with one for some reason. get a pair of 5 or 6 degree shims. o ya, and i have 6" lift with a 2" body lift. i love my body lift, i get the extra lift i needed for my tires but keeps my driveshaft angles all safe. and it makes it easier to work on some stuff when ur under ur truck. when/if u do a body lift, it would be a really good time to replace ur body mounts if u have the money.
 
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