Noob steering question

[Element]

Probably sounds like a pretty stupid question, but I've never worked on it before, so...

Could someone explain, and maybe post a picture detailing the parts and how they interact, on how the steering setup on a K5 works? Tie-rod ends, drag links, pitman arms...don't know what goes where or how they interact.



I'm trying to remedy the horrid steering the K5 has, and I'd imagine a little knowledge of what the parts are and how they work would be beneficial before I start poking, prodding, and yanking on stuff.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

What do you mean "horrid steering?"

Bump steer?
Wandering?
Vibration?

Different problems could be causing different issues. Grab ahold of the steering components, see if you feel any play in the tie rod ends (all the ends of the steering links).

First thing is to pick up a service manual. Haynes and Chilton are OK for basic stuff. If your intention is getting into things more deeply, get a factory manual.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Here's a pic that may answer a couple of things you asked about.

 

[Element]

Loose steering (there's about 4" of play in the wheel before the steering really starts to respond) and a lot of back-and-forth wander on the road.

Flushed and put new fluid in the PS system, when I checked prior to flushing it was so low there wasn't any fluid on the stick. The old stuff was very dark and thick, but got that taken care of. Also rotated the rear tires to the front, as the front tires had uneven wear (outer tread was much more worn than the inner tread, I'm guessing because the previous owner drove a long time on bad ball joints, which was taken care of as soon as I bought the truck).

Didn't notice any slop or play in the front components, but I'm going to get my brother to turn the wheel lock-to-lock while I visualy inspect for any excess movement

 

[DEMON44]

You'll want to "saw" the steering wheel back and forth to pick out excess play in the joint ends, rather than run it lock to lock.

For an easy way to remember them. in that pic that was posted what they call the adjustible connecting rod is the drag link. The pitman arm "drags" it back and forth. and the tierod, "ties" the two tires together.

 

[4x4_76]

You should also check the frame around the steering box, that it's not cracked.

 

[Element]

Frame looks good and the bolts are tight, and I do plan on getting a bolt-in brace here within a month or two.

I think a bit of the issue might be that the tires as 12.5" wide, and they're mounted on stock 15x7" (think that's the stock size?) wheels, so there's a lot of sidewall bulge in the tires, which I'd imagine translates into a mushier ride and slower steering response. Plan on going with 16x12s when I go to a 37x14.5" tire (or something roughly that size).

 

[86dieselburb]

Well, if your frame is not cracked, and your tie rod ends are ok, and your ball joints are ok, and your steering box is ok. Then chaulk it up to the moron that designed the "push pull" steering set up on our trucks. This set up is poor in terms of mechanical advantage. And if you have a lift, the steering characterstics get worse.

Cross over steering is the only way to go in my book. My truck had every single thing in the steering replaced and still had the play you mention. Put on a cross over steering and it dissappeared. Plus you gain a MUCH better turning radius.

 

[Element]

I'll likely do that when I swap axles....the guy who lifted the truck put 35s on open-carrier 10 bolts, front and rear. Derr.

Trying to find someone with a matched 10b 8-lug and 14b FF, that I could just send the knuckle to ORD to have machined and sent back with the crossover goodies. You'd think in WV it'd be easy that sort of thing, but it's not.