I know I haven't been active. I have some doozies to share around the camp fire though. We're all well, and I'm looking forward to catching up on everyone.
CK5
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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor
- Thread starter Hosalabad
- Start date
Found the MC leak
View attachment IMG_0898.mov
Ordered the PSC pump a reservoir kit from ORD.
No joy on cruise. I think it’s an internal short.
Lastly, my RCR teammate sold his truck and doesn’t have anything to compete with.
Would Dale Earnhardt sell his car before the Daytona 500?
View attachment IMG_0898.mov
Ordered the PSC pump a reservoir kit from ORD.
No joy on cruise. I think it’s an internal short.
Lastly, my RCR teammate sold his truck and doesn’t have anything to compete with.
Would Dale Earnhardt sell his car before the Daytona 500?
That's impressive
I wanted to get this recoreded:
C3500 Master Cylinder - Brakebest NMC90032 from Oreilly
1974 Blazer Dual Diaphragm Booster - Brakebest 54-71008 - pushrod a little long, I cut off about 5/8 and it was perfect.
C3500 Master Cylinder - Brakebest NMC90032 from Oreilly
1974 Blazer Dual Diaphragm Booster - Brakebest 54-71008 - pushrod a little long, I cut off about 5/8 and it was perfect.
Truck fridge lives!
I’m in the last month of to-do list items for a May DBBB trip. I decided that having all of my food waterlogged from leaking zip locks had gotten to the ‘enough is enough’ stage.
I went with BougeRV Rocky 50 fridge/freezer and Renogy DC/DC charging and battery.
Pack out plates and boxes. All of the battery and charger stuff is in one Medium toolbox. I stuck some fans on the back for heat and used an eBay thermostat/relay ( degrees C on the front) to trigger them. 2x 12v cigarette ports, and USB out. I put in a second plate for a large box for tools since I usually take the Blazer to the speed shop and work outside.
I’m in the last month of to-do list items for a May DBBB trip. I decided that having all of my food waterlogged from leaking zip locks had gotten to the ‘enough is enough’ stage.
I went with BougeRV Rocky 50 fridge/freezer and Renogy DC/DC charging and battery.
Pack out plates and boxes. All of the battery and charger stuff is in one Medium toolbox. I stuck some fans on the back for heat and used an eBay thermostat/relay ( degrees C on the front) to trigger them. 2x 12v cigarette ports, and USB out. I put in a second plate for a large box for tools since I usually take the Blazer to the speed shop and work outside.
DEI baked potato conversion for my muffler. It’s really close to the floor for the output to clear the frame. Wrapped from the Y back to the muffler too. I might rig up something to cover the clamps with the leftovers from the muffler. Need to think on that.
Last up is new interior bed panels. They are cut but not bead rolled yet so no pics. I’ll be adding a pair of speakers when they go in.
Last up is new interior bed panels. They are cut but not bead rolled yet so no pics. I’ll be adding a pair of speakers when they go in.
Bluetooth stuff for the fridge and battery. Truck is currently off.
The DC/DC charger is supposed to sense run voltage to enable charging. If not it does have a port for “smart alternators”, whatever those are. The fridge carries low voltage shutdown as well. There is a circuit breaker in the battery box and a relay to control the fuse panel.
I turned the fridge on right before this series of posts so it’s been outside in the sun all day.
The DC/DC charger is supposed to sense run voltage to enable charging. If not it does have a port for “smart alternators”, whatever those are. The fridge carries low voltage shutdown as well. There is a circuit breaker in the battery box and a relay to control the fuse panel.
I turned the fridge on right before this series of posts so it’s been outside in the sun all day.
Excited to hear your experiences with the fridge. I read some good and bad on that one IIRC, but they all seem to have their pros and cons. I like the idea of not having to worry about ice, keeping stuff actually frozen, etc.
Not critical probably, but been playing around with those eBay temp sensor/switches myself and have one that failed. Seems to still switch, but no power output. It wasn't in use but for a couple of weeks, I think the max power was 60w. I tried to be cognizant of the likely limitations and set the swing points far apart so it cycled less, but that didn't do it. Not sure what exists for a trustworthy "heavy duty" option. Would love to get into the solid state relays but still stuck with figuring out how to get a reliable temp switch. The components on these Chinese cheapy devices are always suspect.
Not critical probably, but been playing around with those eBay temp sensor/switches myself and have one that failed. Seems to still switch, but no power output. It wasn't in use but for a couple of weeks, I think the max power was 60w. I tried to be cognizant of the likely limitations and set the swing points far apart so it cycled less, but that didn't do it. Not sure what exists for a trustworthy "heavy duty" option. Would love to get into the solid state relays but still stuck with figuring out how to get a reliable temp switch. The components on these Chinese cheapy devices are always suspect.
That doesn't look like it's working.
Do you have a dual battery system
Single, it wasn't charging because the truck was off.
Looked ok in testing with the truck running.
I'm losing my mind trying to get my Cruise to work, so I haven't had the truck running for very long at a time.
What's it doing?
For some reason my pedal switch works fine, but has a very, very small window where it knows it's depressed. Took me a bit to figure out that I could get it to engage and stay engaged if I pulled up on the brake pedal.
Pretty sure I used a hose clamp to keep the adjustment from slipping.
A fridge is a game changer, for sure. You can pack stuff warm or pick it up along the way and it cools as you drive (or sit admiring the sunset) and you never have to drain the water. Overall, the "cooling bits" take up less space than the bag of ice would have. Plus, who likes heaving ice around every time you want to find something in there?
My dad had a 12v cooler in the truck (semi) in the 80s that would get pretty dang cold.
You could flip a switch and it'd get warm instead if you'd rather have that. Really cool setup.
We used similar technology in cooling computer panels in the field at my last job.
Essentially some unit that gets hot on one side and cold on the other with power. And reversing the polarity reverses the effect.
All they do it put aluminum fins on both sides.
You could flip a switch and it'd get warm instead if you'd rather have that. Really cool setup.
We used similar technology in cooling computer panels in the field at my last job.
Essentially some unit that gets hot on one side and cold on the other with power. And reversing the polarity reverses the effect.
All they do it put aluminum fins on both sides.
You're talking about a thermoelectric cooler (aka Peltier devices). They are very inefficient, as they constantly draw a lot of power and create a lot of heat to transfer the heat. This makes them much better warmers than coolers. I would never recommend for someone to leave one of those plugged in for a long time (especially overnight) if they also need that battery for starting. Also, a lot of those units don't even have thermostats - they just run constantly (sometimes with a noisy fan). You just get some fixed temp difference (over time) like 30F, so if it's 80F outside, the cooler is at 50F (on the cold side, warmer on the opposite) and if it's 50F outside, everything freezes.
The good ones have swing compressors, and you can generally run all night and start the vehicle in the morning.
To make cold, you generate heat. No getting around it.
Absolutely, but these small thermoelectric coolers are drawing like 4-8A @12V all of the time. It's not in the same category as a compressor-based system.
Cruise is fixed. It had my pulse per mile for the speed sensor set to my actual number instead of what the sensor is designed for. Not sure where I went wrong there. Following that, too much slack in the cruise cable. Good support from Dakota Digital.
I got posted on the DBBB reel from last year if it works:
https://www.facebook.com/stories/10...I5ODM=/?view_single=1&source=shared_permalink
I got posted on the DBBB reel from last year if it works:
https://www.facebook.com/stories/10...I5ODM=/?view_single=1&source=shared_permalink
I also had to use a relay to provide the ground or +12v signal to the violet wire. Previously my turn signals were cancelling cruise. Must be some crud down the wiring at the taillights.
Fixed my tach too, new ground wire. It was cutting off when the headlights came on, but the ground also fixed the flickering the tach saw from the turn signals. Grounds are becoming a thing lately.
Fixed my horn! I had the wheel off for something and the metal contactor that is spring loaded shot into orbit. I finally grabbed a Dorman kit at Oreilly. #83230
