Not Clearing Tires

[jor]

87 Suburban, 4" Lift, 33" Tires

Well, my Suburban is now running (joy). I installed a raised steering arm that I picked up here (sweettk) and it works fine. (3/4 ton axles) I took it out in the desert and noted that the tires are hitting the fenders when I turn hard and the vehicle is flexing. I like the stance of this thing now and don't want to get radical so what is my best bet for fixing this tire-rubbing issue? Should I add a leaf? Raise the body? Cut the fenders? I plan to use the truck around town and out in the boonies where I do mountain biking. Thanks. Here's a photo.
jor

 

[pauly383]

Zero rate add a leaves , new springs , or cut the fenders .

When I went with too tall a tire , I trimmed my fender up to the inner fender , bent the chrome wheel well trim ( you would have to get some it looks like ) and screwed it down with self tappers .

 

[eclipse]

What did you use to lift the front? 4" springs and who made them? Looks like you don't have much clearance for those 33s. Heres my truck with 4" rough country springs and 33s on 15x10 wheels. They rubbed on the fenders a little offroad, but they only it the fenders once and its barely noticable where the fenders are bent on the bottom.

 

[jor]

Zero rate add a leaves

Not sure what this means. Do you mean that I should build up my springs by adding leaves?

What did you use to lift the front? 4" springs and who made them?

Well, I'm not really sure. The springs had a sticker on them that said Superlift or something like that. It was already lifted when I got it. I changed it to 8 lugs (14 bolt & 10 bolt) and bought some wheels and tires.

Here's a couple of more photos. I'm a fair shade tree but I am pretty ignorant about all of this lift stuff. Here's a couple more photos showing how it is set up. Thanks.
jor

 

[eclipse]

those front springs have been over flexed. You can tell by the bottom one, it bends up in the middle. I'd get some Tuff Country front springs and some extended bump stops to prevent that.

check out http://offroaddesign.com they have springs, zero rates (1" blocks) add leafs and all kinds of goodys

 

[cbbr]

Yep. No arch at all. time to get some replacements.

 

[jor]

OK. Thanks. I'll check out that link. Maybe they weren't real good quality. I just figured with a more or less stock Suburban that the springs wouldn't have been worked that hard.
jor

 

[eclipse]

You just shouldn't have a major problem with clearing the fenders on a 4" lift with only 33s. No 35s or 38s would be time

 

[cabledawg]

I have a 90 w/33's and only trimmed the bottom of the front fenders to fit the tires at full compess or the wheel turned. No lift in front. You shouldnt be having any issues if you've got a 4" lift.

 

[jor]

You shouldnt be having any issues if you've got a 4" lift.

Hmmm... it looks like it has a 4" lift but maybe not. From the ground to the fender lip, it measures 41 3/4" in the front and 40 3/4" in the back. Maybe a better measurement would be from the top of the tires to the fender lip which is about 9 1/2" on the front and a little over 8" on the back.

Would someone mind measuring theirs so I can determine how this one compares. When I got it, afaik, it didn't have a rubbing issue. It had 1/2 ton axles and 15" 33s that were well worn. I pulled the 1/2 ton stuff and replaced with 3/4 ton and put on 16" steel wheels with 33 inch BFG tires.
jor

 

[imiceman44]

Hmmm... it looks like it has a 4" lift but maybe not. From the ground to the fender lip, it measures 41 3/4" in the front and 40 3/4" in the back. Maybe a better measurement would be from the top of the tires to the fender lip which is about 9 1/2" on the front and a little over 8" on the back.

Would someone mind measuring theirs so I can determine how this one compares. When I got it, afaik, it didn't have a rubbing issue. It had 1/2 ton axles and 15" 33s that were well worn. I pulled the 1/2 ton stuff and replaced with 3/4 ton and put on 16" steel wheels with 33 inch BFG tires.
jor

First if you notice the rear has some kind of block, looks like a zero rate or a 1.5" block.
The 33" tires on 15" rims were probably 7 or 8" rims and you most probably put some 9.75" wide 16" rims on now.
33" tires with narrow rims will fit fine with no rubbing on a 4x4 sub, even with no lift, but they will not fit with a wide rim, which explains what you got.

 

[eclipse]

I have 15x10 on 33x12.50s on a 4" with hardly any rub. Did you have any rub problems with the old tires? I'll try and measure my truck tomorrow if I get time.

 

[jor]

First if you notice the rear has some kind of block, looks like a zero rate or a 1.5" block

Yes, they are regular aluminum 1 1/2" or so blocks.

The 33" tires on 15" rims were probably 7 or 8" rims and you most probably put some 9.75" wide 16" rims on now.

Not sure what it had (they were 15" steel wheels) but you're probably right. The ones I bought are indeed 16" X 10" steel rims.

33" tires with narrow rims will fit fine with no rubbing on a 4x4 sub, even with no lift, but they will not fit with a wide rim, which explains what you got.

Hmmm... ouch! I did a little research before I bought them but apparently not enough! After working on the damn thing for months I was anxious to get it off of the blocks and on the road.

So what to do?
1. Buy the zero rate and see what happens. Of course, I would still have the 1" difference between the front and the back (it's really starting to annoy me now that I noticed it).
2. Buy the Tuff Country 4" lift. This is where the measurement would help me as I would hate to spend all that money only to have the same problem.
3. Replace the brand new wheels. With what?
4. Go to a local spring shop and have some made.
5. Drive in a straight line and don't go over any big bumps!
Thanks to all for your replies.
jor

 

[imiceman44]

Yes, they are regular aluminum 1 1/2" or so blocks.

Not sure what it had (they were 15" steel wheels) but you're probably right. The ones I bought are indeed 16" X 10" steel rims.

Hmmm... ouch! I did a little research before I bought them but apparently not enough! After working on the damn thing for months I was anxious to get it off of the blocks and on the road.

So what to do?
1. Buy the zero rate and see what happens. Of course, I would still have the 1" difference between the front and the back (it's really starting to annoy me now that I noticed it).
2. Buy the Tuff Country 4" lift. This is where the measurement would help me as I would hate to spend all that money only to have the same problem.
3. Replace the brand new wheels. With what?
4. Go to a local spring shop and have some made.
5. Drive in a straight line and don't go over any big bumps!
Thanks to all for your replies.
jor

All these options are for preserving the body.
You could trim the corners that rub.
That is what most end up doing so they don't have to lift it too much for just 33" tires.

Now you got me thinking with that block in the back, do they have a lifted spring and a 1.5" block or is stock spring and all you have is a 1.5" lift?
Maybe that would explain what is going on with you. 4" lift usually clears 33" tires even with wider rims

 

[BIGNICK91]

i have 3in of lift in the front (tough country) and clear 37's with a little fender trimming of course

 

[jor]

Now you got me thinking with that block in the back, do they have a lifted spring and a 1.5" block or is stock spring and all you have is a 1.5" lift?

Well, I'm not sure but the springs did have a sticker on them that said SuperLift or something like that. If I can get a measurement from the top of the tire to the lip of the fender from someone with a 4" lift and running 33s, that should tell me. I'm not completely opposed to trimming but I'd like to avoid it if possible and if my springs are not up to snuff as another poster indicated, I'd like to replace them. Thanks.
jor