Does this vehicle have an alarm or factory security system?..or a chip in the ignition key?...seen those chips crap out for no good reason,and if it has an alarm with a kill wire,it may have activated itself when you hooked the battery back up...
CK5
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Not firing!!!!
- Thread starter gonner
- Start date
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Not sure if those security systems are anything like the one in the Avalanche here, took me awhile to figure out and remember that when reconnecting the battery cables, the ignition switch MUST be in the on position. Only then will the factory alarm/ignition kill system not go full horn blaring..
check spark at coil?
DirtRidinz71
1/2 ton status
Positive that the distributor is even turning and not a stripped distributor shaft gear. Unlikely since it was just apart for a "rebuild" but stranger things could happen.
I had an issue like this in Moab. Wire from the coil to the distributer module was broke inside the plug at the distributer end. 3 weeks to figure that out.
UPDATE FELLAS!! After going thru a few modules and tracing wires a buddy stopped by and let me have a new dist. that he had just laying around. Rolled back to #1 popped the old one out and in with new. She didn't turn over twice before hitting. Inspected or should say compared the two while out, you could definitely tell the difference between the two. The older one just lost its magnetic pickup. Cranks and runs great for about three to five minutes then starts to choke and bog down until it dies. Crank it back up and does the same thing runs great then after a few it dies. I unplugged tan wire in cab,used light to set to zero timing then plugged back in wire. Checked afterwards and it set off timing by 10*. NEED INPUT FELLAS
Tan wire in cab? if you are talking the EST bypass, it's in the engine bay by the booster...it sounds like that's what you are talking about, but your in cab reference is confusing.
Mine isn't by the brake booster it's in the cab in front of the blower box. I looked all around the booster and found nothing. It is the EST bypass, disconnect it engine runs at 0* timing , reconnect runs offset by 10*.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Is this a GMT400 truck or just a 94 motor in a square body?
Bogging down after run time when it starts up fine is usually a sign your plugs are fouling because you didnt gap them properly. They should be .045 for a TBI. Im making an assumption you felt it was a good idea to throw new plugs in it while there were no manifolds/headers in the way, yes?
Bogging down after run time when it starts up fine is usually a sign your plugs are fouling because you didnt gap them properly. They should be .045 for a TBI. Im making an assumption you felt it was a good idea to throw new plugs in it while there were no manifolds/headers in the way, yes?
Sorry about that, should have re-read the year of the rig.
I'd imagine timing should be way higher at idle, like 20*. Most GM EFI I'm aware of, is.
No codes? Check engine light works?
I'd imagine timing should be way higher at idle, like 20*. Most GM EFI I'm aware of, is.
No codes? Check engine light works?
A buddy of mine has 1994 1500 4x4 with 5.7 TBI. His info sticker on the front says to gap plugs at .035. Would it hurt to gap them at .045?
Also, check to make sure the 2 coil plugs, that connect together to make one, are seated all the way and the tabs lock them down. If they come loose, this will cause a similar problem you are having.
Also, check to make sure the 2 coil plugs, that connect together to make one, are seated all the way and the tabs lock them down. If they come loose, this will cause a similar problem you are having.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
.045 is suppose to be an improvement. If I remember correctly I changed my TBI in my 87 from .035 to .045 and it pepped up quite a bit. The MSD coil and cap and rotor probably would have allowed to open it up a little more. The more gap you can run and still have reliable spark the better.
It still sounds like his engine is loading up because the plugs are fouling due to too tight of a gap.
Running right, a low compression engine like this with HEI should run any gap from .035-.080" without noticeable difference. Smaller gap could certainly cause issues, but I've never seen any, and I never was able to measure a difference in economy.
I've seen oil-fouled plugs of course, but that's a different issue that isn't fixed by different gaps.
I've seen oil-fouled plugs of course, but that's a different issue that isn't fixed by different gaps.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Right. I had plugs that said they were set to gap come out of the box at like .020 one time. I never checked them and had to pull them all over again and regap them. I'll never make that mistake again...
being we do SOOOOO many plugs in the boat biz, that's the law.. you ALWAYS check plug gaps on new plugs out of the box..
AC Delco is always pretty much spot on, but there are certain apps that they'll come thru at 30, and the mill calls for 35.. so you tweak everyone that comes out of the package..
AC Delco is always pretty much spot on, but there are certain apps that they'll come thru at 30, and the mill calls for 35.. so you tweak everyone that comes out of the package..
