nothing!!

[bobalob]

So I replaced flat cam this weekend and now it won't fire. Cam, crank, and distributor are all lined up. Fuel is spraying in carb, spark is coming off plug wire, and valves are adjusted. So what now? Any ideas would be great. On a side note why does the intake to head gaskets block off the middle ports? If they were built to be there why am covering them. Thanks!

 

[Jagged]

You have compression, right?

4 simple things to make an engine run: compression, fuel, air, timing

 

[tRustyK5]

Betcha the distributor is 180 degrees out...


Rene

 

[Russell]

Betcha the distributor is 180 degrees out...


Rene

That'd be my guess too!

 

[bobalob]

it was 180 off yesterday but now it is right on and no i havent checked compression how do i? and any info on gasket restrictions?

 

[bobalob]

nobody?

 

[Russell]

Need a compression tester to test for compression accurately. But you can stick a peice of tissue paper into a spark plug hole, and crank it, if blows it out, you have at least some sort of compresion.

Only need spark fuel and air and compression to run, so if you are sure that your plugs and wires are good, then the only thing really left would be compression.

 

[Jagged]

Only need spark fuel and air and compression to run

That's what I had meant to say

 

[tRustyK5]

How did you adjust your valves?


Rene

 

[SUBFAN]

Adjusting the valves with new lifters can trick you sometimes. Check the compression and recheck the valves, they might be to tight letting the compression escape.

 

[bobalob]

Adjusted valves as book instructed one turn past zero lash at 1 and 6 with the order of exhaust intake on which cylinder it said. I will pick up compression tester and maybe timing light after work, but can nobody tell me about the 350 intake manifold gasket block offs? It is not in my book. I tried starting it again last night and the best I could get was a little poot out the carb.

 

[Russell]

Any backfiring through the carb is either a timing issue, or a valve issue.

Infact, thats the exact symptom of an 180 out dizzy. Just humor us and try turing it around 180 degrees and see what happens If that doesn't work, you may have to re-set the lash on your valves, as they may be too tight, or two loose, causing either no compression allowing a pop through the carb occasionally, or not allowing the air fuel to get into the cylinder at all. Again, a compression test will show that right away. If none of that works, I'd be thinking of checking to make sure that my cam timing was correct, which is another thing that a compression test would show.

The little center crossover port was used for either the EGR, or in some cases the choke in the engine. Blocking it off will have no real effect on the engine unless you have one of the above installed

 

[4wheelattitude]

Are you sure you set the cam timing on number one cylinder or number six? It's easy to make that mistake.

 

[tRustyK5]

Are you sure you set the cam timing on number one cylinder or number six? It's easy to make that mistake.

I mentioned that scenario in his other thread. The books all show the chain being installed at #6 TDC, but forget to tell you that leaving you thinking you're at #1. That is why it's so common to get the dizzy out 180...

Rene

 

[bobalob]

cam was fine my lack of valve adjusting experience was to blame, as soon as compression was acheived it was all good

 

[southernspeed]

Are you getting nothing at all? No pops or bangs? I know it's boring but double check everthing 'again'. It's so easy to do the timing a second time and think 'well I know it's right but I'll just check it' and miss the obvious.
The blanked off ports are just heat risers from where the egr passage is. The egr side is often solid with carbon.
Check your timing and valve lash again. When the rocker is down you can turn the push rod with your fingers easily. If you can't turn it then it's holding the valve open.