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Now Debating FiTech EFI….need opinions.

k5blazerguy

1/2 ton status
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Haven’t updated my build in a while and have done a lot to the Blazer since. I’ll get around to it someday lol.
but recently I replaced my 305 with a Vortec 350 with a lot more power.
I spent the last year dialing in my Holley TA on the 305 then on the 350. Had it running pretty good. I always had this stumble if the RPMs were around 13-1400 or less and I hit the throttle. I just got used to it. I Messed with it and changed every setting over the past year and could not fix it. Only other issue with the TA was Every now and then it would sputter at a stop sign then catch up. Other than that the truck always ran great.
well, I parted out another truck that had a quadrajet on it. And for shits, I replaced the TA with it.
so far it’s been a couple months and damn it runs great! I never have to pump the gas to start it, in the morning it’s one pump to activate the choke and that’s it.
ive had it on some pretty steep inclines these last couple months wheelin and it never gives me any trouble, in fact it does better than the TA.
my only complaint about it is that I lost my take off power as the primaries on the Qjet are smaller. Just means I have to take RPMs a little higher before I dump the clutch to do a burnout. :burnout:

Ive had a FiTech kit that was on my sons truck (400hp go street I think) we ended up putting a carb back on it . I sent it off to get fixed and they replaced the ECU on it. So I went ahead and acquired an 87 tank, sending unit, fuel pump, AN lines…..all I need to swap. But now I’m debating. Lol.
has anyone here done FiTech and regretted it?
the main reason that holding me back is that the Qjet is running great I have zero issues. And the simplicity……….I know that I will gain a lot more power with the Fitech kit, but how reliable would that setup be a few hours on a trail? I don’t wanna be stuck in the middle of the mountains and something electrical craps on it Lol.
im just an overthinker and wanted to get opinions from others who have swapped to Fitech and go wheelin. I don’t know exactly what caused the first ECU to go bad. Thinking he probably hit it with the pressure washer at the car wash. Not sure though. Thanks!!
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I'll be funning the fitech 600hp on my k5. I had it on for a few hundred miles but had a couple failed pistons on the o2 bank side that may have cause a slightly high idle I couldn't change but is been OK. I just rebuilt the engine so I'll be trying it again
 
I actually have done pretty much the same as you. I had a truck avenger, then quadrajet then got the go street 400 kit. I’ve driven to and from Moab multiple times and have wheeled quite a bit. The only issue I’ve had was my of my own making and was easily fixed.
The system has been pretty reliable and I easily have over 5k miles on it.
I’ve enjoyed more power and better drivability with the fitech that either of the previous setups.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I may just end up putting the FiTech on and use it. Just need a free weekend to do the swap.
I bought a fuel pump for a late 90s vortec 5.7 to attach to my sender………if for whatever reason the fitech dies on a trail, is it possible to slap a carb back on and regulate that pump? Seems like a lot of pressure to turn down. Just looking ahead to plan for an emergency after I do the swap. I’m currently using a Holley regulator now with an electric pump, but that pump isn’t pushing that high of pressure.
 
I have about 1K miles on a Go EFI 600 HP kit on a 4.3L. Replaced a truck avenger. No complaints at all. I would recommend a that kit as a minimum so that you can do timing control. All it takes is a TBI distributor which are a time a dozen for SBCs and a MSD pigtail to plug it into the FItech.

Here is the post where I explain the TBI distributor


These aftermarket EFI kits are not as set it and forget it as people seem to think. But if you actually want to take the time to play with some basic settings you will get a good running setup. If you want to learn actual VE tuning, you can get a great running setup a lot faster than the self learning will do.

Some tips I have found is for the initial few hundred miles. set your idle speed a bit higher, like 800. That way the ECU has more time to save a stall as it learns the engine. Its really important to get the IAC steps set for what ever idle speed you have. You can and should adjust the secondaries as well as the primaries to get that IAC/Idle set. IF you add timing control Fitech will use idle timing advance to help control idle speed. Because of this you cant use a timing light to set your base timing at idle. Lock it out in the ECU and then run it up to 2000 rpm to check timing with a light. And get a fuel pressure gauge. Lots of EFI issues can be traced back to fuel pressure. At the very least leave it in until you are confident in your fuel system.


As for your fuel pump question. The answer is yes technically. You can do that but finding a regulator that will go from 60psi to 5psi can be difficult sometimes. I have the option to do what you say because I am using a holley in tank regulator/sending unit that will do that. But if you do go with a tbi distributor for timing control you will have to change back to HEI to go carb. So maybe you dont want timing control. I will say I was originally worried like you are. Planned to build a pelican case with all the carb swap stuff to keep for road trips. Im pretty confident in my system now that I think I will just sell my carb.
 
I have about 1K miles on a Go EFI 600 HP kit on a 4.3L. Replaced a truck avenger. No complaints at all. I would recommend a that kit as a minimum so that you can do timing control. All it takes is a TBI distributor which are a time a dozen for SBCs and a MSD pigtail to plug it into the FItech.

Here is the post where I explain the TBI distributor


These aftermarket EFI kits are not as set it and forget it as people seem to think. But if you actually want to take the time to play with some basic settings you will get a good running setup. If you want to learn actual VE tuning, you can get a great running setup a lot faster than the self learning will do.

Some tips I have found is for the initial few hundred miles. set your idle speed a bit higher, like 800. That way the ECU has more time to save a stall as it learns the engine. Its really important to get the IAC steps set for what ever idle speed you have. You can and should adjust the secondaries as well as the primaries to get that IAC/Idle set. IF you add timing control Fitech will use idle timing advance to help control idle speed. Because of this you cant use a timing light to set your base timing at idle. Lock it out in the ECU and then run it up to 2000 rpm to check timing with a light. And get a fuel pressure gauge. Lots of EFI issues can be traced back to fuel pressure. At the very least leave it in until you are confident in your fuel system.


As for your fuel pump question. The answer is yes technically. You can do that but finding a regulator that will go from 60psi to 5psi can be difficult sometimes. I have the option to do what you say because I am using a holley in tank regulator/sending unit that will do that. But if you do go with a tbi distributor for timing control you will have to change back to HEI to go carb. So maybe you dont want timing control. I will say I was originally worried like you are. Planned to build a pelican case with all the carb swap stuff to keep for road trips. Im pretty confident in my system now that I think I will just sell my carb.
Hahaha I still haven't done the timing control on mine. I just set my hei and ran it old school.
 
Hahaha I still haven't done the timing control on mine. I just set my hei and ran it old school.
That's what I did originally. It runs fine, the same as a carb. I figured if I have the feature and all it would cost me is $60ish bucks. why not give it a try.
 
I put the 600HP on a couple years ago along with the Hyperfuel G-surge pump under the hood, this adds lots of fuel hoses under the hood. First mistake was I trusted the push on style fuel lines-one popped off and started an engine fire. Cleaned it all up and replaced burned things. These are not exactly plug and play like they claim but once you get it all dialed in it ran great. Then the ECU failed on me, gave me signs of failing and then just would not start, thankfully in my driveway. Worked with their tech support and they replaced it. Meanwhile ran with the carb. Kept carb in truck with me incase it failed again. Running good again until I am top of a mountain standing outside the truck with the engine running and BOOOOM! Engine on fire again. Well we got it put out and I did not die even though I was soaked in gas three feet from flames. Anyhow what I think happened was one of my fuel lines may have been too close to the block and caused it to melt/explode, they were all clamped down with hose clamps. Long story short I eventually got up there again to recover/rebuild/run it with the carb down off the mountain. Carb is now back on and I think I will keep it that way.
 
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