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Now what? <--14ff help...

take a double check on that - i have a 14bff out of a 78 suburban, and the 6 prong socket is what i had to use. it's a real pain in the ass tho, because the socket slips outta the nut quite a bit. you have to make sure to be constantly using force to push the socket in on the nut to keep those teeth in place, and probably a lot of torque to get 'em to move. make sure that you get the tab(s) from the washer bent out of the holes in the nut before you try to use that tool, otherwise not all the teeth will be in the nut and you won't have success. a flat head screw driver will work just fine. clear the grease away from the nut and make sure you find all 6 slots on the nut so that you know you've gotten all of the tabs from the washer pulled out of the nut.
 
colbystephens said:
take a double check on that - i have a 14bff out of a 78 suburban, and the 6 prong socket is what i had to use. it's a real pain in the ass tho, because the socket slips outta the nut quite a bit. you have to make sure to be constantly using force to push the socket in on the nut to keep those teeth in place, and probably a lot of torque to get 'em to move. make sure that you get the tab(s) from the washer bent out of the holes in the nut before you try to use that tool, otherwise not all the teeth will be in the nut and you won't have success. a flat head screw driver will work just fine. clear the grease away from the nut and make sure you find all 6 slots on the nut so that you know you've gotten all of the tabs from the washer pulled out of the nut.
Click to expand...

I'm an idiot...I forgot to pull that snap ring off....I even posted about it earlier...*sigh*

Ok, well its late but I'll check tomorrow. Thanks man.

-Avery
 
Since the axle is out of the truck I would recommend filling it on the jackstands with the cover off. Put the axles in and get everything buttoned up and point the pinion down. Fill the pumpkin with lube and rotate the pinion to make sure all of the bearings get lube. Filling it this way you can get more in than filling it through the fill plug and since the bearings are lubed by the oil it ensures the lube gets there. I have a little over 5 quarts in mine and could have gone more but I only had 5 quarts. In my personal opinion you cannot overfill a 14FF unless it is coming out of the vent:D

Ira
 
I would grease the bearings before reinstaling them. the grease stays in them for a long time. I dont know any mechanic in the Biz who doesnt. Also you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to take the nuts on and off. there is a locking washer in the middle of the 2 nuts.

Lastly when tightening the nuts back on, the inner nut gets double sinched good and tight. tighten it and back it off then retighten it again. the second nut is just a jamb nut or locking nut to hold the 1st one in place.
 
ssped said:
I would grease the bearings before reinstaling them. the grease stays in them for a long time. I dont know any mechanic in the Biz who doesnt. Also you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to take the nuts on and off. there is a locking washer in the middle of the 2 nuts.

Lastly when tightening the nuts back on, the inner nut gets double sinched good and tight. tighten it and back it off then retighten it again. the second nut is just a jamb nut or locking nut to hold the 1st one in place.
Click to expand...

ok, so I can't overtighten the nuts? If I did wouldn't it push the drum in too far or is that not a problem?

-Avery
 
make the first one very tight, torque it to about 150ftlbs and then back it off, and torque it to about 50ft lbs, install the lockring, then snug the 2nd one down...
 
ssped said:
I would grease the bearings before reinstaling them. the grease stays in them for a long time. I dont know any mechanic in the Biz who doesnt. Also you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to take the nuts on and off. there is a locking washer in the middle of the 2 nuts.

Lastly when tightening the nuts back on, the inner nut gets double sinched good and tight. tighten it and back it off then retighten it again. the second nut is just a jamb nut or locking nut to hold the 1st one in place.
Click to expand...

I agree with a light film of grease on the bearings, but nothing else you said is done by those "in the Biz". I think they use the proper $10 socket and a torque wrench.
 
well you can overtighten them but the drum positioning you do not have to worry about. when tighteneing the inner nut use a smaller 1' ratchet and get it pretty tight/solid snug. Then back it off and retighten it that will take up all the slack in the bearings and set it properly. they need to be pretty reasonably tight. The second nut is just a locking nut and just tighten it down(dont forget the funny looking washer between).

Are you replacing the bearings?
 
woah!!! hold on there, guys. we need to be recommending that he torque these to spec, not to what feels right. all those recommended torques you guys just posted are NOT accurate. just had a thread about this up the other day where muddytazz pulled out the manual for a 78 burb for the torque specs on the 14bff. i'll go get that pulled up.
 
looks like i was wrong. his is for a 77 - shouldn't be different tho.

muddytazz said:
My 77 manaul says

50 inner, back off, then re-torque to 35, then back off 1/4 turn
65 outer

90 for the shaft to hub bolts
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while tightening the spindle nuts, spin the drum to make sure you've got free motion.
 
I have never used a socket for it in 20 years just a screwdriver and a hammer. Yah others invest and buy a socket and I would recomend that. (less chance of someone dammaging something through inexperience) we should allways recomend the right way for doing things. but as I said everyone I have worked with packs the bearing before reinstalling them. No arguments and probably no wrong ways just bellybutton opinions.
 
so yeah, grease them with wheel bearing grease, it will blend with the gearlube and ensure the bearing wont burn due to lack of lube..
 
It is probably better to grease them but I did not when I put mine together and nothing happened to mine. I did however use the proper torque when tightening the spindle nuts.

Ira
 
Avery4jc said:
Ok, a cherry picker, floor jack, two jack stands, a BF socket wrench and some panther piss later...
Click to expand...

Dayum.. I thought we only had the panther piss up here :rolleyes:

bottle_wildcat.jpg
 
make sure the spindles are nice and smooth. i let mine sit outside for a little and they got a little surface rust. i didnt get all of it off when i put the hubs back on and it ruined my wheel seals, and got diff fluid all underneathe my truck. once i took the hubs off again, sanded the spindles down more and got them really smooth, greased them up real good, put it all back together, no problems since.
 
yeah just use scotchbrite to lightly clean them up if they get some surface rust, but once you clean them, put a little gear oil on the spindles and the threads to prevent rust...
 
ssped said:
I have never used a socket for it in 20 years just a screwdriver and a hammer. Yah others invest and buy a socket and I would recomend that. (less chance of someone dammaging something through inexperience) we should allways recomend the right way for doing things. but as I said everyone I have worked with packs the bearing before reinstalling them. No arguments and probably no wrong ways just bellybutton opinions.
Click to expand...

I dont own the hub socket for the 14 either....just a hammer and a screwdriver. Ive gotten flamed for that on here...but have never had a problem. I also use some wheel bearing grease on the bearings.
-Harrison
 
Avery4jc said:
I know everyone told me to tell them that I needed it for a 14ff but they couldn't even get the brake parts so I doubt they'll be able to get the socket for the pinion nut (found out what its "real" name is, lol, I'm slow)

-A
Click to expand...

Maybe the problem with them not being able to find the tool is because its not a pinion nut your removing. The pinion nut is inside the diff on the pinion gear. You need the hub nut socket....not pinion nut.:doah:
-Harrison
 
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