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Np205 popping out of 4wd lo

buckmtn

1/2 ton status
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Oct 17, 2005
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Stokesville,Va
I twin sticked my 205 a while back, but I can't remember doing anything to the front output rail. Whenever I put it in 4wd low or do a front dig in fwd the shifter wants to pop out of gear all the time. Took the spring that holds the ball in place on the rail and put some spacers behind it but didn't help. Thinking maybe the rail must be worn where the ball sits down it it for 4lo. Any ideas?
 
sounds plausible or the shifter is hitting some where on the floor and causing it to pop out or you did not grind the rail enough.
I know the stock shifter's are notorious for hitting the tunnel and popping out of 4 low have had to hold my foot on more than one.
 
I had already took the boot off and made sure nothing was touching the shifters. I never did anything to modify the shift rail for the front ouput, and it worked fine until the last time I went wheeling. Pulled the t-case and the detent on the rail that the ball sits it for 4-lo had a little wear in in but not alot. Going to take it to work and weld a spot or two where its worn and grind it back down hopefully that will do the trick. I would just replace the rail but I need to be ready to wheel by thursday so no time for that.
 
You have to grind the rails or the twin stick will not work properly it will not be able to work independently of each other. both in low or high will work but not separately.
Which twin stick do you have?
 
in one of the twin stick write ups, they grind the detent deeper to hold it into gear better.
 
Every thread I've read on grinding the shift rails only mentions grinding the rail that controls the rear output of the t-case, and that is what I did and have had all the ranges that the twin stick provides, thats not the problem. As far as grinding the detent deeper, I've seen that mentioned in a couple threads but not sure how much to go, don't want to do to much and not be able to get it to shift outa gear. Got buddy of mine to tig the worn spots up on it at work this morning just need to file/grind the welds back down...
 
i got a set of twin rails from ord and then compared both with stockers. thay both had mods.

if i recall the front needs to be elongated on the 1 slot.

if i remember tonight i will go grab my stockers and take pics of them for ya. as i had a machine shop friend modify them to twin stick use before i installed the new ones. this way i can twin stick my other 205 i have on the cheep.
 
Ya the rear only on mine also with no problems and the lock out feature is retained.So no low front high back grenade t case. I was un clear if you had grinded any of the rails.
Some one else on here added washers to the spring to make it tighter and hold the gear better.
 
I just finished my JKW twin stick conversion. According to their instructions you do not modify the front shaft.... I hope mine does not do this to me..
 
the ord shafts have a better deeper indent in the middle spot for the front output. this for the ball/spring detent . then for the cross bar safty inside the case the front end to the outside of the case is cut steeper than the factory taper.

the rear output get the major mods. both the flats were the safty rails ride get streched 1x there orignal length basicly. and this is dont working to the center of the shaft.

i did my best with my camera its got a dirty lens i need to clean for better close up pics. but here ya go. you can tell the mods to stock by the shine non rusty/dirty sections.

modifyed 205 rails 007.jpg

modifyed 205 rails 005.jpg

modifyed 205 rails 004.jpg
 
I modded both shafts too. It would pop out of front wheel drive once in a while when lots of bouncing was happening, but it seems ok now after tightening the shifters.
 
Well after putting the shift rail back in, made sure I had all my ranges...Pulled the pto cover off to get the old roll pin out that I had driven into the case. I look in the case where the magnet is and there in pieces on the magnet was the large snap ring that goes on the very back of the front output shaft. So I pull the large aluminum cover off the back of the t-case and low and behold the snap rings gone and the little dowel pin thats on the shaft to center the thrust washer had eaten into the bronze bushing inside the large helical gear....I think the bushing will be ok, the dowel pin just ate up the very edge of the bushing, problem is finding another snap ring, its thicker than a normal ring...:doah:At least I figured it out before I put the t-case back in the truck.
 
i think i have spares from when i striped 2 divorced cases and built my ultimate 205 for the doubler. i have a box with lots of small parts in my tool box. will write my self a note and check for ya wensday.

this snap ring? any other parts you need?

32 spline 205 reman 094.jpg
 
Its similar to that, some of the shafts apparently are different. I have a case out of a 73 chevy and thought I would swap the parts into my 85 case but the shafts are different. The shaft measures 1-1/2 with the groove measuring around 1.380 or so. I think I found one here at work that will fit but its .020 thinner, may just put a shim in there to take up the difference of the snap ring thickness..
 
DANG it now you have me Scared Mine Pops out when Im Rollen in 2 to 1 rear. But it seems like a Pressure thing only happens in first and second gear on deceleration. Anythoughts on that??? Now that Im Hijacking this thred
 

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