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NP208 Blind Bearing Removal

B

Bohemian

Guest
so my trials & tribulations with making one good NP208 from two continues...

in this episode, some yahoo installed the blind torrington bearing in the small half of the transfer case too deep, leaving no room to get any two jaw or three jaw puller under it to pull it out...

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to get it out without fubaring the case.

I can get a quarter under it which is about .065" on the quarter I used.

thanks in advance.20201127_151325.jpg
 
Fill it with grease and the tap in the output shaft to force it out. Probably get it high enough to work it out.
 
Two small rolling head pry bars....


Or mig weld a small strap of steel or a large washer across the bearing race and use a slide hammer ...
 
If the technique that @obijuank5 posted doesn't work, you should be able to bend the top rail of the bearing to get the rollers out and then use the puller on the top flange. I think...
 
You could try hitting it with some key board duster to freeze it and shrink it some and pull it out.
 
If it's just the housing without gears and yokes attached,,,

You can take a small propane torch and evenly heat up the housing around the bearing...
turn it over and slap it down on a block of wood,
the bearing may just fall out.
 
Last resort you could remove all the rollers and lay a bead of weld inside where they ride in 3 spots ,then after it cools off the shell will be able to be coaxed out pretty easily,it'll shrink it..
I've gotten pinion bearing outer races out that way,and rear wheel bearings,when I had no puller available..
 
Last resort you could remove all the rollers and lay a bead of weld inside where they ride in 3 spots ,then after it cools off the shell will be able to be coaxed out pretty easily,it'll shrink it..
I've gotten pinion bearing outer races out that way,and rear wheel bearings,when I had no puller available..
I was going to suggest this, but I was concerned about it swelling too much in the aluminum when it gets welded. I have never done this trick with an aluminum housing, works awesome when I have done it though!
Do you think that the aluminum can handle the temporary swelling without cracking?
 
I was going to suggest this, but I was concerned about it swelling too much in the aluminum when it gets welded. I have never done this trick with an aluminum housing, works awesome when I have done it though!
Do you think that the aluminum can handle the temporary swelling without cracking?

It "should" work ok as long as great care is used..if the weld burns thru the bearing shell though,it will likely cause trouble..

In my experience aluminum & die cast things seem to soak up more heat than iron or steel when I'm using a torch to heat up a stuck bolt,but it also suddenly turns to liquid instantly as soon as a critical temperature is reached..
I have removed this type of torrington bearing from a riding mower transaxle by welding on the shell without ruining the housing..but I'll admit some luck is involved..

A pilot bearing puller would probably work to get that bearing out..
I doubt the packing it with grease method would work in this instance--there is too much space between all the rollers--last time I tried that trick to get a pilot bushing out of a crankshaft,all I got was splattered with grease when I smacked the shaft I used that fit tight with the hammer--I ended up using a 5/8" tap instead,just screwed it in until it pulled the bushing out..
 
Success!

inspired by some of your suggestions, I remembered I bought some small diamond blade saws for my dremmel & another project a while back...

So I took one of the smaller ones & notched out a spot to get one of the needle bearings out, get one out they all come out with a magnet...

Once I did that I used a two jaw puller I had with a little red neck engineering & pulled the race out using the top lip, I also had to get out the propane heat wrench & heat up the aluminum boss around the race, once I did that it came out using the t-handle on the puller with my fingers...

Attaching a few pictures for reference.


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to put it back in,,,

Throw the new bearing in the freezer for a few hrs...

When ready, heat the case (it doesn't need to be red hot) 200-250 degrees...
give the bore a shot of spray lube,
drop the cold bearing in the bore and tap in with a block of wood and dead blow hammer...

get everything ready before hand and work quickly... should drop right in fairly easy..
 
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