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NP208 fixed yolk swap (how to)

73redblaze

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Sorry, search some more. I post about this all the time. There are 3 ways:

1) Modify the back half of the Dodge case to fit on a Chevy. This requires aluminum welding. You use the Dodge main shaft and tail housing. This is how mine is and I've posted all the details.

2) Drill the Chevy case to take the Dodge tailhousing. This puts the bolts in different places and will require nuts on the inside. This will also use the Dodge mainshaft. I never heard back if the guy had problems with this build.

3) Send some of your parts to Tom Woods. They cut down the shaft and the tailhousing. This looks pricey, but it's sold with the driveshaft. So price out the total build with shaft first.
 
Sorry, search some more. I post about this all the time. There are 3 ways:
3) Send some of your parts to Tom Woods. They cut down the shaft and the tailhousing. This looks pricey, but it's sold with the driveshaft. So price out the total build with shaft first.

- That's what I did
 
Option 4. The easy way. Get an np241 and a legit SYE kit :whistle:

Yes its hard to find the 1 year mechanical np241 but if you cant you can always switch your speedo.
 
Here's my old post about the conversion: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100934

This method can be really cheap - I put about $150 into it. But you will need a Yoke. The Dodges have stupid 1310's. Now if you did the JB conversions method on a 241 or the Tom Woods machining method, the yoke is included. No matter which method you choose, you will need a rear driveshaft.

The best way I found is to go to a 1350 C/V shaft at the same time (eventually I figured out I needed this anyway). I had the rear shaft built to mate to the C/V flange that comes stock on the front output of the transfer cases. The cost for the shaft was the same, but I already had the second flange from the parts Dodge case. I honestly don't see the point of the Tom Woods and HAD C/V flanges. Here is my post about driveshafts and the flange: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224707
 
Option 4. The easy way. Get an np241 and a legit SYE kit :whistle:

Yes its hard to find the 1 year mechanical np241 but if you cant you can always switch your speedo.

I don't know what makes aftermarket parts "more legit" than factory parts. :dunno:

Actually the real Option 4 is to use the whole Dodge case with a custom adapter or clocking ring. The only Mod needed should be a swap of the input gear. I'm waiting for somebody to try this.
 
I don't know what makes aftermarket parts "more legit" than factory parts. :dunno:

Actually the real Option 4 is to use the whole Dodge case with a custom adapter or clocking ring. The only Mod needed should be a swap of the input gear. I'm waiting for somebody to try this.


The only reason I described it as "legit" which I'm regretting my choice of words now lol is because the dodge method requires chopping the case doesnt it?

It just seems much easier to find an NP241 since they are stronger anyway.

:dunno:
 
I don't know what makes aftermarket parts "more legit" than factory parts. :dunno:

Actually the real Option 4 is to use the whole Dodge case with a custom adapter or clocking ring. The only Mod needed should be a swap of the input gear. I'm waiting for somebody to try this.

I already looked into this, I noticed the mounting of the dodge Tcase is completely different from our trucks, it will take some fabing plus the clocking of the case to mate to the chevy adapter.
The input change is easy.
I did the back half dodge case mod, and the ford front output mod, then sold the whole thing.
Now I will do the Tom woods style mod myslef since before they thought about it I was looking at the possibility.
I wouldn't be making it as short though because I want to cut down the shaft and not have to respline so I need to figure out how far I can go, and then cut.
Or I can get the ford or dodge shaft and cut my chevy tail to match.:dunno:
I have a few 208's I can do some R&D.:D
 
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