topless jackass
Registered Member
Can anybody tell me the main differences between the two and which one is better suited for 'wheeling?
CK5
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NP208 vs. NP205
- Thread starter topless jackass
- Start date
sope
1/2 ton status
208 is aluminum. Needs a beefy skid plate. 205 is cast iron. Hard to break.
208 has 2.61 /1 reduction (i think). 205 has 2/1.
208 is chain drive. 205 is gear drive (tougher).
208 is supper light and an easy swap. 205 is heavy and hard to handle.
I'm happy with my 208 because of the gear reduction. I wheel pretty hard and have never broken it with rletively low power and mid size tires. I keep a spare at home and it would be an easy trail swap. I think most here will say to go with a 205 for the strength.
208 has 2.61 /1 reduction (i think). 205 has 2/1.
208 is chain drive. 205 is gear drive (tougher).
208 is supper light and an easy swap. 205 is heavy and hard to handle.
I'm happy with my 208 because of the gear reduction. I wheel pretty hard and have never broken it with rletively low power and mid size tires. I keep a spare at home and it would be an easy trail swap. I think most here will say to go with a 205 for the strength.
pauly383
Daddy383
Depends on how hard your wheeling , np208 isn't as sturdy , but holds up well to a point , np205 is virtually indestructible .
np208 is chain driven and aluminum , lower gearing , slip yoke on the back like a car tranny .
np205 is gear driven and cast iron , gearing is crappy , and it comes in both slip yoke and fixed yoke versions .
np208 is chain driven and aluminum , lower gearing , slip yoke on the back like a car tranny .
np205 is gear driven and cast iron , gearing is crappy , and it comes in both slip yoke and fixed yoke versions .
Don't forget the 241. Not nearly as common, but I'd consider it a viable "inbetween" of the 208 and 205 in general.
In general use, it's a lot less hassle to use a 208 or 241 in a truck originally equipped, than a 205. Driveshafts, shifters, you name it. Without getting too deep into modifications, 208/241's are cheaper unless you keep breaking them.
I think most peoples main concern is the slip yokes (stock) of the 208/241 vs. the fixed (edit: after 1980, not all 205's are fixed yoke!) of the 205. Broken rear shaft, the 205 can be driven home on the front no problem.
In general use, it's a lot less hassle to use a 208 or 241 in a truck originally equipped, than a 205. Driveshafts, shifters, you name it. Without getting too deep into modifications, 208/241's are cheaper unless you keep breaking them.
I think most peoples main concern is the slip yokes (stock) of the 208/241 vs. the fixed (edit: after 1980, not all 205's are fixed yoke!) of the 205. Broken rear shaft, the 205 can be driven home on the front no problem.
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Hit the nail on the head! Thats why I gave away my Np208 and threw a NP205 in its place. I broke on the trail and had to be towed by a Tacoma
Atleast now if I seem to break jesse's shaft I can drive out in 4wd on the front.
CopperK5
Registered Member
I broke the rear slip yoke in a 208 on break at work and drove home in front wheel drive (4hi & locked hubs) 30 miles on pavement at 35-45 mph and it didnt even notice the difference(soon after I opened the case,and to my surprise NO carnage inside!! I really like the 208. its a lot stronger than most give credit .
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
205... twin stick. Saweeeet.
Thats the reasonim going to a 205. i want the front dig, unless i find a dana 300.
Thats the reasonim going to a 205. i want the front dig, unless i find a dana 300.
'86erfixer
1/2 ton status
I have a 208 ... Needs replaced. But for what I do, take the blazer out shooting & occationally drive on a path I have no business being on ITS FINE. Been great so far. Just broke something so the chain's a little loose but still drives ok.
Hardcorers: go w/ a 205
Recreational users: 208 is fine
as said before, do cover it up cause a big rock can take it out
Hardcorers: go w/ a 205
Recreational users: 208 is fine
as said before, do cover it up cause a big rock can take it out
Polski-Chevy
1/2 ton status
Hernia or no hernia that is the question 
Dana 300 is gonna be my next t-case
Best of both worlds, light, durable, twin stick conversion, and 2.62 to 1 low gear.
Dana 300 is gonna be my next t-case
Best of both worlds, light, durable, twin stick conversion, and 2.62 to 1 low gear.
Go with an Atlas instead. Unless it costs too much.Hernia or no hernia that is the question
Dana 300 is gonna be my next t-case
Best of both worlds, light, durable, twin stick conversion, and 2.62 to 1 low gear.
Hernia or no hernia that is the question
Dana 300 is gonna be my next t-case
Best of both worlds, light, durable, twin stick conversion, and 2.62 to 1 low gear.
You must be building a jeep because I would never put that small of a case in a full size blazer.
Polski-Chevy
1/2 ton status
I would love to have one of those, but the atlas would cost more than the rest of the truck
Yeah, I never thought about a 1/4 ton vehicle t-case on a 1/2 ton.
But I'm willing to bet since it was on a jeep, there is a rebuild kit for it to handle a SBC, since it seems every jeep on the trail has a GM powerplant
I've seen 'em on some trail trucks, they seem to be tuff little b#$tards, lighter than a 205, stronger case than a 208, twin stick conversion kits, and gear driven.
Just a thought since CherryK5 brought it up.
