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NP241 Strength? - not for truck

Make the world's first 4x4 Corvair..:D..

Mount a Dana 44 front axle up front,a 14 bolt in the rear,and put the engine in the middle with the crank facing the doors--use another differential as a transfer case to send power to both axles..

Some of the bog buggies are made that way--they use typical 4x4 solid axle up front,and a rear diff from the same vehicle,and use a FWD transaxle and engine to power them,mounted sideways in the center of the vehicle..

I don't think a Subaru transaxle would last long behind an LS V8..:eek:..Stripped gears.jpg
 
skunked said:
funny how incorrect some info is online http://www.dieselhub.com/drivetrain/np241.html
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Yeah I ran across that link - thought it was dubious, but found a 2nd site someplace that said a similar number...


runamok151 said:
How about some type of AWD system, like out of an old Subaru?
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There is a kit to convert the 5sp to front wheel drive and I've considered it, but the 5spd's aren't known for their strength. Used to have a wrx and 2nd gear for a lot of years was a weak link. They updated the part several times including cryo'in the gears to keep them from crunching. The STI is strong enough but it's big and heavy and there's no kit to convert it. Would require some kind of welding on the center diff and then its really long and heavy and the gearing isn't awesome for an ls.


cyclic said:
Porsche 930 trans is what you want.
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930's are a possibility, I think the g50's are probably even more suited - as you can get taller gears. But by the time you flip it all around get the oiling straight and the r&p flipped you're into it for some $$$$.

There are some Audi transaxles that I've looked at and those may be a decent compromise, but I'm not sold on the gearing.

I've wanted to build this to take to dry lakebeds, something I've wanted to do since I was a kid (wife is not real sure about that.). And as I look at things it's almost cheaper to build something from scratch - something like a drop tank lakester that uses a corvette style of transaxle.
 
Just the belly tank will set you back a small fortune now a days...

do the moon buggy thing, turn a 4 cylinder motor/transaxle sideways and connect the axles to the rears..just gear it for speed instead of crawling
 
I also like the corvette type set-up. It would be somewhat expensive, but accomplishes the gearing/engine layout with the least custom changes.
 
I just read that you can do the direct mount on a corvette tranny/drive by simply installing a regular LS1 bell housing.
 
How bout a Jeep np231, they have tons of options for hd chains and such and they are small and light.
 
Blazooki said:
Just the belly tank will set you back a small fortune now a days...
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Yeah, the last couple I've even seen for sale were pretty expensive. Would do tube frame, wrapped in sheetmetal. Look like belly tank if I went that way.

cyclic said:
I also like the corvette type set-up. It would be somewhat expensive, but accomplishes the gearing/engine layout with the least custom changes.
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I agree - won't fit in a vair but will in a custom chassis.

cyclic said:
I just read that you can do the direct mount on a corvette tranny/drive by simply installing a regular LS1 bell housing.
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Those t56's are kind of a lego transmission in that you can kinda stack them up w/ the config you want.

Truckman4life said:
How bout a Jeep np231, they have tons of options for hd chains and such and they are small and light.
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Have to read on that one.
 
241 has held up find behind the Duramax in Penny for years and years, subjected to all kinds of offroad abuse, jumping, high speed for hours on end etc. They are pretty stout, rated for more input torque than a 205 is even. The case itself can be broken if you smash it into rocks etc, but otherwise they hold up very well.
 
Here comes the "I know a guy" post--
I know a guy who drove his 90's K1500 in 4wd after the rear driveshaft fell out and got run over (fubared),by jerry rigging a plastic cup over the rear output shaft, to hold the ATF in it with the drive shaft "missing"..for several months to Boston & back to work,till he finally found another good used drive shaft..
Which amounted to a good 3,000 miles at least,at highway speeds,and he didn't baby it either--he still hauled his tools,firewood,etc with it..

I'd say if the transfer case survived pulling a full sized pickup around with only "front wheel drive" that long,it will likely last a long time propelling a light car like a Corvair..
 
The 231 isn't a bad idea. It actually uses the same output as the 241. And if you can find the HD cases it has more planetary pinions. It's alot lighter, smaller and will take quite a bit of input torque.
 
What about mounting a sprocket to the output of a 2wd transmission and running a sealed chain (sized for the load) to a shaft mounted on two pillow blocks with sealed bearings. The shaft would connect to a conventional driveshaft.

With this setup, you would be buying cheap industrial power transmission parts that are easy to find. You could change gearing by simple sprocket changes too.
 
I've thought about that and have been trying to find info on industrial/ag chain but haven't found a whole lot. Looked at belts too - gates has some software to help sizing but finding people to sell that isn't easy either.
 
Since @bent72 has been trying to call me a troll for a week now, I am going to play devils advocate.
You talked about a LS, IRS 9" diff, and a roll cage.
None of that stuff is cheap to build or buy.
What are you trying to cheap out on the drivetrain.. a quick search on eBay yielded this....

http://m.ebay.com/itm/142339912733

V-drive for 250 bucks. Now I don't know anything about them but I see there is a bunch listed around 4-600.

For the type of thing you want to do I'm not sure why don't you get get the "right" part?
Now if you want to push yourself as a builder or build something they say can't be done, then carry on.
Otherwise I think it would just make life easier to drop the 600 hundo and be done with the time and frustration of building a jackshaft or modifing a t case.

Either way. I expect a build thread:popcorn:
 
beags86 said:
Since @bent72 has been trying to call me a troll for a week now, I am going to play devils advocate.
You talked about a LS, IRS 9" diff, and a roll cage.
None of that stuff is cheap to build or buy.
What are you trying to cheap out on the drivetrain.. a quick search on eBay yielded this....

http://m.ebay.com/itm/142339912733

V-drive for 250 bucks. Now I don't know anything about them but I see there is a bunch listed around 4-600.

For the type of thing you want to do I'm not sure why don't you get get the "right" part?
Now if you want to push yourself as a builder or build something they say can't be done, then carry on.
Otherwise I think it would just make life easier to drop the 600 hundo and be done with the time and frustration of building a jackshaft or modifing a t case.

Either way. I expect a build thread:popcorn:
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Good find. Wasn't aware of those similar to what a friend mentioned some 'drop transfercase' from something like scs - http://www.scsgearbox.com/product-catalogs/transfer-cases/

As far as buying it 'right'.... yeah. The 'right' transaxle is gonna start at $10k and go up... Something w/ the appropriate gearing and strength to hold up to an LS. I have found some audi t-cases for cheaper ($4k or maybe a bit less) but the gearing and strength on them is dubious. As examples mendeola/weddle/albins/porsche - https://weddleindustries.com/transaxles/mendeola-s4s5-series

If you found something strong enough and w/ the right gearing for 600 send me some links, I'll be all over it.


The think that kills me is that I can buy a corvette transaxle all day at 1500ish, but it won't fit...

I've had this vair sitting around the house for years waiting for a good transaxle option to come up and in that time the 'right' ones have about tripled in price. And I see some light at the end of the tunnel w/ my truck (if there is such a thing) so looking into the next project.
 
Let me see what I can find. I think a boat v drive is what I would use. Reverse mount the LS and 4Lxxe you want and v drive it back to the axle...

Packaging will be the next problem...
 
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