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NuB Question

i3onzai

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Sep 16, 2010
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Lindsay, CA
Hi Guys, My name is Randy and I've been working on my 83 K5 for a few months now. I have built one other sbc before in a 66 C10. I have done quite a few little things to the blazer, and a few big things too, but I started running into upgrade and modification questions and I found your site. I browsed through and I gotta say that this is a pretty cool stie so far. Anyhow, I have a question about running 35" tires on stock drive train. Will it work and will it have good/negative effects on the driving ability and stuff. Right now I have a 4" lift, all Springs in the front and new stock replacement springs and blocks in the back. I have put new brakes and extended brake lines, and a drop steering arm to compensate for the lift. I also have on order a sway bar relocation/disconnect kit. I have some 33" super swampers that I got for a steal and was wondering about going up to 35's on the stock tranny. The engine is a completely rebuilt 350 with a mild cam, aluminum heads, performer intake, headers and holley 700 cfm carb. I have also lowered the transfer case 1" by moving the stock spacers from unerneath to inbetween the TC and the frame. I plan on installing a locker for the rear since it's an open rear end. I'll post some pics of it later when I have access to them on my laptop... the GF has it hostage doine homework right now. So what's the expert word on running 35's ? Thanks guys, hope to hear back
 
First let me say, glad you found us. This is the most informative GM site you'll find. With that said the yearly $25.00 membership fee will QUICKLY become the best "MOD" you can start with on this site.

Ok, in order to answer your question about running 35's on your rig we'll need to know what trans you have in the rig and what gear ratio is in the axles. Many people run 35's (me included) but depending on gearing and which trans will net whether the outcome will be good or bad in terms of power or lack of. With a 35" tire you would want to have a minimum of 3.73 gears but better yet 4.56's or lower depending on the trans.
 
One thing to keep in mind is the bigger the tire, the more pronounced any front end problems will be, so make sure your ball joints, tie rods, and shocks are all in top shape. And what exactly are you running for rear springs? It might be better to do the rear shackle flip to gain 4" rather than using blocks.
Welcome, and Goodluck Randy
 
thanks guys

Thanks for the response guys. I have rebuilt most of the front end, with new tie rod ends, new ball joints, new shocks and new springs and polyurethane bushings and new poly body mounts. I have a 700r4 that has supposedly had a shift kit put in a few years back, but i don't know for sure. i also have the NP208 transfer case and pretty sure i'm running stock 3.73 gears.
 
With a 4" lift, a 35' tire looks pretty good. However, if you do disconnect the sway bar, the tires WILL rub the fenders off road. You can trim the front fender lip behind the front tire a little to get almost another inch of clearance there without being very visible. Putting a locker in the rear 10-bolt with 35" tires is not the strongest combination out there and it might break off road. If it's street driven only, you probably don't want a locker.

As mentioned above, you'll need lower gears in the axles. 4.56 is a good choice for 35's (and will work with 33's if needed). You're sometimes money ahead to find axles with the gears you want, swap them in and sell your old ones instead of doing the gear swap.
 
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