Talk about Pedigree
CK5
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nutin
- Thread starter Metrodps
- Start date
Thats cool about the engines life, its like your letting her out in the pasture to finish having some fun. I was wandering if it was really that dirty or if it was painted.
I really want to know what they did to blow a hole in the block, two in the left side of the pan and one in the right. I don't know how you blow up a TBI 350 like that since they really aren't built to be able to rev much past 4500 RPM.
We were kicking this around at Western Alternator when they saw the holes and thought maybe it was a victim of a stupid downshift manuever.
But amazing is what I thought!
Meh, it happens. I threw four rods on an LU5 going down the interstate. An LO5 350 TBI is hotter than any of the smog 350's.
Martin
Martin
A you can fight off a bear, just be dominant
B you won't be home, probably be off trying to fight with the DMV trying the get the burb on the road
C It might not kill ya, your not dead yet are ya?
D Stroke Schmoke
I might have a line on a transformer up here. Not sure but he says its a warn winch bumper thing with a grill guard. Not for sale. But its a buddys Dad that lives about an hour away from me so easy to measure it.
I will let you know about it.
Don't make Santa load up his gooseneck and come get that burb to deliver it 
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Some day i sure would like to hear the whole story behind "santa".
Lawrence bought a burb -- The engine was good n' blown up (awesome pics!
)Found out that a certain racer I've had the pleasure of meeting a few times the last couple years had a known good and well seasoned engine that would fit nicely into the burb...
Some arrangements were made, some money changed hands and the engine was swapped into the burb by the good folks at ORD (thanks again Brandon, Stephen and anyone else involved! You folks are the best!). The burb was given a once over and is currently we are arranging to get it back to Lawrence's place
What a stand up bunch of Bros
. Well done gentlemen, well done.
. Well done gentlemen, well done.
You guys rock. What a great story.
Keep it up.
Keep it up.
I can never remember which is which (my rig has both guage and idiot light). But check right above your oil filter, that is where one sender hooks up on the block and the other is all the way back of the intake manifold, almost under the distributor. Should be a bell shaped sender there. One of them should work your oil gauge.
Z
Z
Oil pressure sending unit is under the distributor.
Maybe check to make sure you're getting a good ground from engine to frame. All those senders need a good ground to work right.
On the oil pressure sending unit, you need to check to make sure you have the proper one in there. I know on S-10s you can put a switch in place of a sending unit and your gauge would peg when the engine is started because the resistance goes infinite when the switch opens. After the engine is off and switch is made, resistance goes to 0 and the gauge drops back to 0 pressure.
Due to the fact the engine we put in had been installed in a stand alone TBI configuration all of the oil pressure sensors etc. were taken off the old engine and installed on the newer one. There were enough inconsistencies between sensors that I tried really hard not to have these exact issues.
I think the only two sensors that didn't get switched out were the knock sensor and the temp sensor up by the thermostat housing.
There was and is a ground strap from the back of the right head to the fire wall, then another from around the Alt. to the frame.
I'm not at all knowledgeable about the factory display stuff on these, I don't trust electrical gauges and install all manual stuff when possible.
I think the only two sensors that didn't get switched out were the knock sensor and the temp sensor up by the thermostat housing.
There was and is a ground strap from the back of the right head to the fire wall, then another from around the Alt. to the frame.
I'm not at all knowledgeable about the factory display stuff on these, I don't trust electrical gauges and install all manual stuff when possible.
re the a/c lines...
I have learned this past year that it is possible to rebuild an a/c line by CAREFULLY cutting off the ferrule locking the rubber hose in place and just replacing the rubber hose and having a shop crimp new ferrules in place.
I was researching this because the long lines going to the rear are virtually obsolete. Of course, this only applies if the metal portion is not corroded and worth reusing.
I planned on transferring the rear a/c from my junker to my 90. Rear a/c lines for a 6.2l are virtually impossible to find...
here's a linky on me cutting the ferrule on my old line
and here's a link to more info...scroll about 1/2 way down.
I have learned this past year that it is possible to rebuild an a/c line by CAREFULLY cutting off the ferrule locking the rubber hose in place and just replacing the rubber hose and having a shop crimp new ferrules in place.
I was researching this because the long lines going to the rear are virtually obsolete. Of course, this only applies if the metal portion is not corroded and worth reusing.
I planned on transferring the rear a/c from my junker to my 90. Rear a/c lines for a 6.2l are virtually impossible to find...
here's a linky on me cutting the ferrule on my old line
and here's a link to more info...scroll about 1/2 way down.
hillbilly deluxe
Professional Pile-It
Nice score. Those are cool because its the actual tinted glass and not just that film. I want those sliding ones from LMC but they're like $450. It would be awesome to have more opening windows in that cavernous cab!
The suburban I have in my back yard has a full set of those, its my parts truck that I only really need the fenders from. So..........
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Seems a tad on the high side, unless its worth going with him strictly for the payment aspect. Especially for not using a urethane base/clear. Its no real comparison but FYI i had my burb painted at my local MAACO and it was $1550 for body work, and a base/clear paint job.
