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Nuts for replacing steering arm?

dyeager535

dyeager535

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So I found a lot of posts on the topic of removing the arm, and the pain I'm apparently in for, but I'm wondering what people have used to replace the three nuts that hold the arm on.

The service manual states that the conical "adapters" as GM calls them, are to be reused. No problem there, I'll reuse those as long as they look good.

Unfortunately I don't have the manual in front of me, but I believe they called the nuts holding the conical adapters/steering arm in place "prevailing torque". GM specifies that the nuts are NOT to be reused.

Can I just use new non-locking nuts with loc-tite, torqued to the GM spec? (90ft-lbs in 1991 BTW)

Really would rather not use the crimp-style lock nuts that may screw up the stud, if something else is out there. I've already got loc-tite red and blue (in the package, believe red is the stronger stuff) so that would "save" me money.
 
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Yeah I better clarify that...the cones are supposed to be re-usable, I am wondering what to use to replace the nuts that hold those/the steering arm in place. :) Thanks!
 
I just used some Ny-Lock nuts and red Loc-Tite. Been holdin' strong for 3 years.
 
dyeager535 said:
Yeah I better clarify that...the cones are supposed to be re-usable, I am wondering what to use to replace the nuts that hold those in place. :) Thanks!
Click to expand...
That's funny
because every arm I took off the nuts came out nice and looked like they could be reused but the cones were always in bad shape, also they always seemed to have developped threads on the inside.
I know it's not supposed to be there because I did pull out one set that didn't and actually that one came out pretty easy.
I know you can get these at the dealers still and I think some parts stores too.
 
I just went to the hardware store and got some grade 8 nuts that matched the old ones and put them on with the old cones and some red loc-tite (which yes you were right red is supposed to be stronger than blue).
I haven't had any problems.
 
I always anti seized the studs and reused the nuts and torqued them and never had any problems. With red Loctite you will need an impact or 450 degrees of heat to remove them. I used to work for Loctite when I lived in Ohio.
Tarey
 
Appreciate all the responses. Of course, these nuts are now the least of my concern, the steering arm won't come off, and that led to figuring out that the upper ball joint is loose, and I assume replacement-only as well. Awesome, such is the way with these things. Tempted to put the nuts on loosely and drive the thing up and down the street yanking the wheel back and forth to see if the arm will break free. :(

Better get to reading the other threads on this topic I skimmed prioer, I may well end up swapping the whole knuckle if the arm won't come off.
 
You will have to remove the arm to get the upper ball joint out IIRC.

I've used a torch to cut into the arm and then hit it with an air chisel. Just have to becarful around the studs/cones. I've also used a grinder with cut off wheel to cut into it. If you don't plan on reusing the arm, no sense in trying to save it when removing.
 
Back in my 1/2 ton days i always reused the nuts and cones. The cones are the hardest things for most people to remove but you have the best idea about leaving the nuts on a few threads and driving the truck (keep it very close to the house or where ever you're working on it) while moving the wheel back and forth violently.
 
heat and beat.. and repeat.

Took me half an hour tops.. break out the propane torch. Then once the cones are out you can just get the arm off easy.
 
BFH owns cone washers :D

I once had a stubborn one that took a full 10 minutes to remove! By BFH, I'm talking an all out sledge hammer btw
 
dyeager535 said:
Appreciate all the responses. Of course, these nuts are now the least of my concern, the steering arm won't come off, and that led to figuring out that the upper ball joint is loose, and I assume replacement-only as well. Awesome, such is the way with these things. Tempted to put the nuts on loosely and drive the thing up and down the street yanking the wheel back and forth to see if the arm will break free. :(

Better get to reading the other threads on this topic I skimmed prioer, I may well end up swapping the whole knuckle if the arm won't come off.
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Dorian
I had an easy way to take them off:
I use a small shizel, I drove it in the slot in the cone washer, it forces it to open up and in most times it losend up and poped out, and the few times it didn't, I used the chizel on the edge to spin the cone like a nut and it turned and losened up because it has developed threads on the inside.
As long as I took the wheels off to work on it and had access from every side, it never took me more than 15 min for all 3.
You will find out that the driving around will not work.
 
I have never had a steering arm yet that could stand up to my 8lb maul.
First i strike the steering arm on the side and back soundly with a big ball peen hammer& spray with a penertrating lube, hit/spray it some more. Let it set for a while then hit the front of the arm with solid blows with a slightly upward swing with the 8 lb hammer. A few god wacks it is loose. You have to get agressive and hit it solid and hard. Think... Kill!
 
Thunder said:
I have never had a steering arm yet that could stand up to my 8lb maul.
First i strike the steering arm on the side and back soundly with a big ball peen hammer& spray with a penertrating lube, hit/spray it some more. Let it set for a while then hit the front of the arm with solid blows with a slightly upward swing with the 8 lb hammer. A few god wacks it is loose. You have to get agressive and hit it solid and hard. Think... Kill!
Click to expand...

I can show you an arm that was mutilated from the pounding and nothing happened, the chisel in the slot and twist to unscrew it was the only way that got it out, now I don't bother with the hammer.
 
If you buy new cones, you could take a small drill bit and drill around the perimiter of them. iceman44's method gave me the idea. I have used the drill method on stuborn balljoint tapers before.
 
My dad left his sledge over here, not expecting to get much of a swing on it, but the weight should definitely own the claw hammer I was using prior. :) We'll see.

Surprised the ball joints are as expensive as they are, drag link ends were like $20 each and seem to be more material intensive!
 
One other option to get the cones out is to tap a flat head screwdriver against them with a hammer (perpendicular to the stud) and that popped out both sets of them for me. The screwdriver kinda pulls them up and out.
 
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