CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Nv4500 swap question
- Thread starter mrgoodwrench
- Start date
I think so, been a year since we did mine.
That gives me an idea where to start. If any one has measurments of the holes size or location that would be great otherwise i will play around with it till it seems right. Looks like you had a great fit how did you choose that location in the first place partially install trans and measure or something?
3 to 4 build for the family : IT'S ALIVE and on the road having FUN !
well got some more done tonight after dinner and the massive housing clean up from the left over military sand storm in the tubes . . :doah: new update for seals spicer # 52148 seals the axle to the inner seal and spins on its own part NOT the shaft body . new lower king pin dust / grease...
ck5.com
more pics and possible help from the 1 i did for this guy .
I made my non removable hump removable and then measured off that. Totally cheated.
But if you can find a bolt in hump, that helps imo.
But if you can find a bolt in hump, that helps imo.
Like the idea but dont have access to a removable hump right now .
Does your buddys name hapen to start with an LIt's the third nv4500 my buddy has swapped in. He's had practice.
Thanks for the link it helps also. I like the junction blocks you used in post #933 to 4 build for the family : IT'S ALIVE and on the road having FUN !
well got some more done tonight after dinner and the massive housing clean up from the left over military sand storm in the tubes . . :doah: new update for seals spicer # 52148 seals the axle to the inner seal and spins on its own part NOT the shaft body . new lower king pin dust / grease...
more pics and possible help from the 1 i did for this guy .
factory military build stuff as this was a m1009 blazer its 1st life .
Cool
For those of you with an internal slave nv4500 did you do anything special to bleed the system outside the vehicle or did you do it all in the truck? Also did you install trans with bellhousing or bellhousing to block then install trans? Im using a factory bellhousing not aftermarket. The factory bellhousing is cut in such a way that i could feesably install the bellhousing first then put the slave on the trans and install the trans. If needed i could even fully assemble the master and slave and line outside the truck bleed then install if needed. Ive never had a problem bleeding clutch hydrolics but several other build threads complained about having trouble bleeding the system. So is it worth the hassle to bleed outside the truck or should i just do it once installed as i normally have? Also regular dot 3 or should i consider dot 4?
Also the factory bellhousing has many open holes i assume for cooling ect... im concerned they may allow mudd, water, or other debris in should i cover the holes somehow or is it not an issue. Here are some pics of the bell and the holes im talking about.
Also the factory bellhousing has many open holes i assume for cooling ect... im concerned they may allow mudd, water, or other debris in should i cover the holes somehow or is it not an issue. Here are some pics of the bell and the holes im talking about.
Its intended to be installed eith the bellhousing first and then stab the trans with the slave on it.
Cant totally help with bleeding. I have never done that one in particular, but I have always bled in truck.
Cant totally help with bleeding. I have never done that one in particular, but I have always bled in truck.
our trucks can do trans WITH bellhousing on easy so pop it all together and install as one .
x2 on never doing a internal slave bleed out job .
x2 on never doing a internal slave bleed out job .
It might...LOL.
As far as bleeding the internal slave setup, it's not that difficult. You'll notice a big window on the driver's side of the bellhousing. You'll install the clutch, then the bell and then the trans with the slave/throwout bearing installed. It was easier to hook the line first, prior to moving the trans under the truck. When you move the trans into place all you have to do is route the line through the window on the bellhousing as you move the trans into position.
Once the trans is bolted in you can then hook up the line to the master cylinder and begin bleeding. Pretty straightforward from there.
Thats what i was thinking. Ive done many clutch jobs with and without internal slaves and ive never had a probablem bleeding them in the truck just figured id ask since so a few others i read on line were complaining they could not get it to bleed. They must have been doing something wrong.
I think the issue isn't the internal slave being hard to bleed. I know I've fought the stock squarebody external slave used with the Advanced Adapters NV4500 bell on Larry's Suburban at least three times. He actually went to the point of bolting the master and slave to a board in his bench vice and bled them off the truck. However, after we got mine done and he tried mine out he decided to ditch the AA bell in the Suburban and go to the later GM internal slave setup.
Nice. Is your bellhousing similar to mine with the air holes.
It is. I think all the late internal slave bells are the same.
Did you fill any holes or are you running it as is? If so no issues with water mud dirt ect...
