NV4500 Swap

[sweetk30]

Auto to man starter has a different cone with opening for ring gear . . Big open can do both . Small open is auto only .

Big open is to clear flywheel & pressure plate thickness .

 

[imiceman44]

Auto to man starter has a different cone with opening for ring gear . . Big open can do both . Small open is auto only .

Big open is to clear flywheel & pressure plate thickness .

Well that's news to me

 

[plugugly]

Auto to man starter has a different cone with opening for ring gear . . Big open can do both . Small open is auto only .

Big open is to clear flywheel & pressure plate thickness .

thank you. Is the small opening the one that people are clearancing, or is it the nose cone tip to clear the bellhousing?

 

[plugugly]

I didn't notice you're from Rocklin, I usually check.
Cool, we should meet up sometime

shoot me a text. cant message here. twoonesix0466 we can compare notes.

 

[Barrman]

I put a NV4500 behind a 6.2 in my M715. 1996 NV4500 with its bell housing, throw out bearing and external slave cylinder. 1985 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.

Make sure you use the very expensive special oil for the NV4500. Advance adapters is where I got my last gallon if I remember correctly. The NV4500 doesn’t like to be shifted fast is my experience. Also, check the input shaft bearing or just replace it before you install the transmission. They tend to be the weak link with the fiber washers next.

Also, here is a video about the different 6.2/6.5 starter motors and the different sized nose cones:

 

[Barrman]

I think the clearancing of the starter you are writing about is to clear the gasser bellhousing. Which is also a thing. The earlier post about the big mouth for both and the small mouth for the automatic along with the video above is about the flywheel teeth side of the cone.

 

[imiceman44]

I think the clearancing of the starter you are writing about is to clear the gasser bellhousing. Which is also a thing. The earlier post about the big mouth for both and the small mouth for the automatic along with the video above is about the flywheel teeth side of the cone.

Do you know if the newer gear reduction starters work on both?
Mine seam to work on both

 

[Barrman]

The gear reduction starters all have the big mouth nose cone as far as I know. So, yes they will work on both automatics and manual flywheels. Just make sure you use the proper starter support bracket. Otherwise very bad things can happen to your block and starter motor.

 

[imiceman44]

The gear reduction starters all have the big mouth nose cone as far as I know. So, yes they will work on both automatics and manual flywheels. Just make sure you use the proper starter support bracket. Otherwise very bad things can happen to your block and starter motor.

Yeah I got min from my 6.5td trucks I parted

 

[campfire]

good info, thank you.

Im getting ready to throw a 02 internal slave 4500 behind my sons 6.2 in his 87. Do I understand that I need a 6.2 flywheel and 02 clutch assembly? I saw you said you used the GTO throw out, is there any reason to do that in this application, or just run a stock one? Im planning on using a wilwood master and just fab a bracket up to get away from the remanufactured factory units so the master orientation will be correct

any info on what starter I will need? 6.2 with a 465 or am I going to get really lucky and be able to reuse the automatic starter?

Looks like most of your questions have been answered, but I'll throw my advice in:

Either clutch plate should work, I used a stock squarebody 6.2 flywheel/pressure plate/clutch set in one truck and a stock 6.5 set in the other. The GTO slave cylinder allowed me to have a normal threaded connection instead of the push-lock system that newer trucks used. 6" of hard line and one adapter later, my GTO slave connected directly to the stock squarebody hydraulic line. Aside from the hydraulic lines, there's no particular reason to use the GTO slave cylinder.

I concur with the starter advice, closed mouth starters only work with flex plates, open mount starters work with either. I found this out the hard way with my CUCV conversion. I didn't have easy access to a new 24V open-mouth starter, so I clearanced mine with an angle grinder. Eventually the motor windings failed and by then I was able to find a new 24V starter that came with the open nose (stock military starters are all closed nose).

To answer your question more directly, unless you still have a stock closed-nose starter, you'll be fine. Aftermarket starters seem to all be open-nose, so most non-military trucks have been converted already by this point.

 

[plugugly]

Looks like most of your questions have been answered, but I'll throw my advice in:

thank you. I was looking through your info.

still debating clutch master. Id like to switch to a new wilwood. Id use a stainless clutch line and adapt to AN.

whats the application year for the GTO?
Happen to have the info/part numbers on your adapters?

 

[Barrman]

Having taken a complete master, hose and slave from a 1995 K30 and transplanted it as a unit into my swap. I highly recommend the Wilwood master, AN hose and a non plastic slave.

 

[plugugly]

Having taken a complete master, hose and slave from a 1995 K30 and transplanted it as a unit into my swap. I highly recommend the Wilwood master, AN hose and a non plastic slave.

should be easy enough to fab up an adapter bracket in the stock location. Best I can tell, there is no wilwood swap that would eliminate the need for an adapter....

 

[campfire]

thank you. I was looking through your info.

still debating clutch master. Id like to switch to a new wilwood. Id use a stainless clutch line and adapt to AN.

whats the application year for the GTO?
Happen to have the info/part numbers on your adapters?

I don't know the model year or part numbers off the top of my head, but they're probably buried in my Suburban thread. The Holden GTO was only offered from 04-06, so it shouldn't take long to check what slave cylinders were available during that time frame. The only adapter I used was a common bushing to convert between two sizes of flared fitting. Probably M10 to M12. But don't quote me on that, the correct info should be in the thread.

If I hadn't wanted to use as much stock GM stuff as possible, I could have simply bought or made a longer line with the correct (different) fittings on each end. No adapters required for this approach.