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NWF steering arm troubles

k5 krawler 50

k5 krawler 50

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
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Location
Gardnerville, NV
Well i'm trying to button up my steering and i went to install my drag-link and the tie-rod end i'm using (ES2010R, which has the same dimensions as ES2234R just has less threads), but the pitch doesnt seem to line-up w/ the pitch of the hole in the steering arm. I thought that these steering arms were drilled out for chevy tie-rod ends, but i guess i was wrong. Any how, i was wondering what other tie rod ends could i use or is there a drill bit i could use that has the same pitch as the tie-rod end? I dug up an old picture that illustrates some numbers that relate to the pitch of the tie-rod ends which is attached below. I already have my draglink welded up and set up to run a tie-rod end with a 7/8" w/18tpi, so if you guys could help me out here that would be awesome, thanks and i hope everyone has an enjoyable Christmas

tie rod end diagram.JPG
 
you have to use a Reamer bit do not use a drill bit or you will never be able to get the tie rod end out again haha the reamer will drill the hole + taper the hole accordingly just measure the tie rod end that goes into the arm measure from the thickest to the smallest point( being just before the threads) then measure on the reamer where it is the same and bingo you got it.. hopefully this helps if you need further explination lemme know

also use a vernier caliper to measure the reamer and tie rod

Cheers
 
yea i think i have the same issue with my nwf reverse hi-steer arms. i dont remember if i got them in all the way or not, been a while since i looked at it. ill let you know.
 
thanks for the replies guys, yea i meant a reamer bit, but wasnt sure of the exact name, anyhow, i thought someone one here, or maybe pirate, had an exact bit that equals the same pitch of the chevy tie rod taper, and muddybuddy, if you could check that would be awesome too, also what ends are you running in your drag-link? Thanks again. everyone..
 
Mine went together just fine. I have no idea what the PN# is for the ends though.
100_1662_fs.jpg
 
NWF:haha::haha::haha::haha:

That is why I don't know what they are. I just bought the whole kit.

Let me look around for the receipt though.
 
yea i'm in the process of e-mailing them, and hopefully they will let me know whats up.. are the ends they sold u 7/8"x 18tpi?? If so, i might just order one from them..
 
I'm in the same boat as Readymix. All my steering is NWF but I don't have a clue as to individual part #'s. :dunno:
 
i just received a reply e-mail from kyle, and he said he uses the ES2010 L and R ends, which are the same exact ends i'm using and i dont know why i cant get them to bottom out, for some reason i think the taper is off or something. I can get the top of the cotter key hole through the bottom of the arm, and the castle nut covers the cotter key hole when i thread it on, interesting.. I appreciate u guys helpin me out.
 
It is also quite possible that the part you got from the part store was in the wrong box. Do you have an old end around to double check against? Long shot but it does happen.
 
i'm building the whole thing from scratch, new everything so i dont have any old parts to compare, but i did try both ends in my dropped drag link and the both fit just fine. Do you think the thinkness of the arm plays a factor? I did the good ol' grease test, and here are the pics to show where it bottomed out, and the grease was equally distributed around the tie rod end. I'm thinkin i may have to counter-sink the bottom of the steering arm..

carpics107293.jpg


carpics107299.jpg
 
mine is the same way, both ends fit perfect in the drop draglink, but the arm doesnt go in as far. i think my tie-rod may be the same way
 
were you able to get the cotter key throu? when i put the castle nut on, it covers up the cotter key hole completely, hopefully NWF can help me out, cuz i would feel much better if i could find out why it doesnt bottom out..
 
yea i did, NorthWestFab, was right on the ball, they said i could send it back to them, they would mill it a lil more for free and send it back to me asap, but i had the right equipment at my dad's work to do some custom machining on it.
 
i think mine must have the same issue, ill have to figure something out, ill have to give them a call
 
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