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Odd problem with balljoint preload sleeve in d44

chulisohombre said:
that sucks,but at least its fixable hopefully.and this is going under a toyota i think you have right?so hopefully bending it back will still be strong enough with a light truck.
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Under my isuzu. Bending it back wont do anything to it. Its like 1" thick metal almost that Ill let cool slow. And once theyre back in the correct place I plan on bracing both of them with a piece of plate.
 
Ball joint sleeves

Don't forget the sleeves have to be torqued to set the preload,My shop manual says 40 ft lbs.
The bottom ball joint nut should be torqued to 70 to 90 ft lbs --Before
installing sleeve---
After sleeve has been installed and torqued the top ball ball joint nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs.

Don't know if this will help you any, good luck


Later Bill
 
Stomis said:
I just went to throw the knuckles on my axle and torque the balljoints before going to my parents for thanksgiving and Im having a weird issue.

The Driver side went on fine. Passenger side is being weird.

I torqued the bottom balljoint to spec. Then put the sleeve in and the sleeve wants to thread WAY in before it has any resistance. Like its only in the C by a couple threads and hanging way the **** out the bottom.

Something must be wrong. Either a defective sleeve, or defective upper balljoint. The taper has got to be wrong somewhere.

My first thought was that the lower balljoints arent pulling up far enough but I measured the distance from the lower C to the knuckle and its the same on both sides...

Anyone had this happen before?

I havent had the time to take it apart yet and I also have an old still good sleeve to try.
Click to expand...

I am having this same issue on BOTH sides of my axle. i don't seem to get any torque on the sleeve before it is out the bottom of the axle yoke and then the spanner socket doesn't even engage into the sleeve.

I too was going to try the old sleeve, but after reading this it may be the portapower and/or torch and BFH.

anyone know what the axle yoke or "C" should measure??
 
robb13425 said:
I am having this same issue on BOTH sides of my axle. i don't seem to get any torque on the sleeve before it is out the bottom of the axle yoke and then the spanner socket doesn't even engage into the sleeve.

I too was going to try the old sleeve, but after reading this it may be the portapower and/or torch and BFH.

anyone know what the axle yoke or "C" should measure??
Click to expand...


I wound up going with rosie and a BFH. Since one of my sides was good I measured it off of that.
 
Stomis said:
I wound up going with rosie and a BFH. Since one of my sides was good I measured it off of that.
Click to expand...
I more I think about it, I just don't see bending the axle yoke on a street driven truck. The more I think about it, I think the knuckle got bent while removing/installing the new ball joints.

Different cause, same result. Does anyone have the dimensions for the axle "c" yoke and knuckle??
 
does any have a D44 axle and/or knuckles that they could get a measurement off of? i've got a few ideas how to resolve, just need some sort of reference

let me know, thanks.
 
what you need?mines tore down right now to do axleshafts.could get it later on today.im on my way out right now to ride dirtbikes.
 
chulisohombre said:
what you need?mines tore down right now to do axleshafts.could get it later on today.im on my way out right now to ride dirtbikes.
Click to expand...

i need the inner dimension of the 'inner C', the outer dimension of the 'inner C', and on the knuckle the dimension from the top of one ball joint surface to the the top of the other ball joint surface.


i tried to point with some paint sticks...

k5 011.jpg

k5 012.jpg

k5 014.jpg
 
robb13425 said:
i need the inner dimension of the 'inner C', the outer dimension of the 'inner C', and on the knuckle the dimension from the top of one ball joint surface to the the top of the other ball joint surface.
Click to expand...


measuring mine today, looks like the best measurement on the inner C is from the top side of one arm to the top of the other arm. machine surface to machined surface.

my inner C's are 7 1/8. one knuckle is 7 7/64 and the other is 7 1/32
 
Sorry I didnt get this done.had some family issues and easter sunday.did u figure it out or still need those measures?
 
chulisohombre said:
Sorry I didnt get this done.had some family issues and easter sunday.did u figure it out or still need those measures?
Click to expand...
hope everything is okay. i'd still like to get a comparison, if your's is still apart.

i used a machinist ruler from the lower ball joint surface to the upper ball joint surface, on both the knuckle and the 'inner C'. To see an accurate measure on the rule, I used a flat bar across the top ball joint surface to the ruler.
 
Yeah my oldest broke his growing rod in his back.has scoliosis.surgery friday to fix.ill get it tonite when I get home.had 16 hr day yesterday and forgot about the measurement.
 
I measured the individual pieces to figure them separate.this is pretty close as accurate as I can get.the inner c is inner 6 3/8 and outer is 8 3/8.on the knuckle is inner 6 3/8 and outer is 8.this should help u figure if the axle c is off or knuckle.mine is a 72 so maybe its a lil different.or I measured differently.but it dont match my numbers.
 
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