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OER Full Quarter Panels/Sheet Metal quality

Kire

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Mankato, MN
Hey All, I'm going to be getting to work on my 86 Jimmy this summer after I finish my V8 S10 Project, and am starting to look at sheet metal options. I have some rust around the wheel well, as well as front bottom and rear bottom of the quarter, so I will be needing to replace the quarters. Classic Industries sells OER's full quarters for about $700 apiece, has anyone had any experience with these? Or just general experience regarding any of OER's body panels? I haven't been able to find any other rear quarters, other than brothers trucks, which are around $900 apiece, and from what I can tell rarely in stock.



Thank you!
 
I bought the 73-75's from motorcity k5 a while back and so far have just sort of hung the quarter to see general fit, which seems ok. I have yet to put the body back on the frame to get rocker, b pillar, quarter and door gaps lined up before bolting/welding. From my reading(mostly on here) the quarters are all produced at the same factory so are likely all identical no matter who is selling them. How are the top bedrails on your quarters? Any chance you could just repair your rust with patch panels?
 
I bought the 73-75's from motorcity k5 a while back and so far have just sort of hung the quarter to see general fit, which seems ok. I have yet to put the body back on the frame to get rocker, b pillar, quarter and door gaps lined up before bolting/welding. From my reading(mostly on here) the quarters are all produced at the same factory so are likely all identical no matter who is selling them. How are the top bedrails on your quarters? Any chance you could just repair your rust with patch panels?
Bedrails are fine, but I'd prefer to do full panels. I don't like doing patch panels if I can help it, and with the amount there is, I'd be cutting off least half of the quarters either way, possibly more. I haven't taken a good look at it yet, as I'm focused on the S10, but I know its going to be worse than it looks.
 
Have you considered a fiberglass panel????

With some labor, the sides could be long boarded to perfection?
 
Have you considered a fiberglass panel????

With some labor, the sides could be long boarded to perfection?
No, I haven’t. Never worked with fiberglass, and i’d be worried about it cracking, i’d prefer steel.
 
One board member built a Blazer with a glass body & all the bolt on stuff from U S Body Panels of Florida.....

That Blazer is a pretty impressive looking ride...

We've had Corvettes in the immediate family since the 60's..... seams were the weak link.....

If you hit a glass panel it can crack or crush.... a steel panel will have a dent....both cost money to fix..... It's a moot point in my eyes
 
How did the
I bought the 73-75's from motorcity k5 a while back and so far have just sort of hung the quarter to see general fit, which seems ok. I have yet to put the body back on the frame to get rocker, b pillar, quarter and door gaps lined up before bolting/welding. From my reading(mostly on here) the quarters are all produced at the same factory so are likely all identical no matter who is selling them. How are the top bedrails on your quarters? Any chance you could just repair your rust with patch panels?
How did the rear quarter panels work? Are the rear quarter panels the same thickness in gauge metal as the original? How did the fit work? Did the rear quarters include both outer and inner structure? I just need the outerskin.
 
I bought the entire assembly ( inner, outer, b pillar and tailgate post). Haven't gotten to it yet as I've been busy with other stuff. I'll measure thickness when I get a chance. Have you taken the old skin off yet? Lot of spot weld cutting
 
I bought the entire assembly ( inner, outer, b pillar and tailgate post). Haven't gotten to it yet as I've been busy with other stuff. I'll measure thickness when I get a chance. Have you taken the old skin off yet? Lot of spot weld cutting
Not yet. I'm just going to use the lower section at the crease line in the quarter.
 
My inside rear quarter panel is good. To patch the entire length at the outer body crease line... from the B pillar to the wrap around the tail light near the tailgate.... would this be risky fit wise? I have yet to see a full end to end outerskin patch panel. I don't really want to replace the rear quarter at the wheel housing.
 
My inside rear quarter panel is good. To patch the entire length at the outer body crease line... from the B pillar to the wrap around the tail light near the tailgate.... would this be risky fit wise? I have yet to see a full end to end outerskin patch panel. I don't really want to replace the rear quarter at the wheel housing.
All reproduction body parts are thinner.
As for splicing at a crease line, it's not really hard.
The easiest is to cut one at the line and the other an inch over.
The overlap helps with alignment and gives more rigidity
 
All reproduction body parts are thinner.
As for splicing at a crease line, it's not really hard.
The easiest is to cut one at the line and the other an inch over.
The overlap helps with alignment and gives more rigidity
I thought overlap was not recommended because that can cause rust to form in the overlap.
 
I thought overlap was not recommended because that can cause rust to form in the overlap.
If you think you have the talent to make the crease by all means.
There are ways to prevent rusting in overlap.
The roof has plenty of overlap layers.
You need to rust proof, and preferably any overlap would be pointing down to prevent water retention
 

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