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Of zero rates, moving the front axle forwards, cutting drag links, etc?

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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So my zero rates are here and the intention is to stick them on the front leaf springs and slide that D60 forwards an inch or so. I'm trying to fit narrow 37" tall tires on a stockish suspension with minimal fender cutting. I'm stuck with the factory push-pull setup. I'm aware that I need to cut my drag link ends to account for the axle moving forward. Just have some basic questions.

How far towards the rear is the front axle in the stock location? Do I want to slide it forward an inch or an inch and a half?

Okay, so I take the drag links and cut the same amount off of them as the axle gets moved forward. Any trick to this other than putting a nut on before hand, cutting off the amount needed, and then taking the nut off?

Any other hazards or issues involved with doing this? I've seen threads on here about doing this but they mostly deal with taller or move involved front suspension setups.
 
Okay, so some more questions as I looked at it this evening:

How does the zero rate work with the D60's passenger side leaf mount thingy? I forgot that it's one u-bolt on the outside and the inner is two big bolts.

Do I just drill these spring plates or do I need to find some non-swaybar plates?

Oh yeah, the drag link that sparked all of this.

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I drilled a second hole for the center bolt nut clearance on the underside of the spring plate. My drag link I didn't need to cut, there was enough adjustmant available. I moved my diff forward 1 1/4" just redrilling the perches and spring plates...

Rene
 
I'm tempted to go 1" and call it good but at the same time...heck, let's do 1.5" since the zero rates already have the hole...

I was out thinking myself on the U-bolts and those passenger side bolts. Time to go play, "find the big bolts in Outer No-Where (Traverse City, MI)" again.

Have to check on the new drag link I have...the threaded portion sure seems long. Did you notice any funky steering because of the draglink modification? I've read reports of it. More twitchy and bump steering basically.
 
Sorry dude, still nice weather here so I'm working on a new fence (instead of surfing here like usual :p: )

I did not notice any weird steering issues with the diff moved forward. No weirder than it usually was with the push-pull steering.

If your drag link does need cutting it shouldn't be that big a deal. Use a cut-off disc on a grinder, and a triangular file to clean up the threads after you de-burr the cut end.

Rene
 
Cool, thanks.

No biggie...just more of me trolling for more comments. You and I aren't the only people who have contemplated or done this.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Cool, thanks.

No biggie...just more of me trolling for more comments. You and I aren't the only people who have contemplated or done this.
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i've been thinking of doing this to get a better approach angle. next time i have the front axle out i'll do it. i already have shims though, so i maye have to get a custom set of zero rates with a taper made.
 
Somebody used to make a knock off zero rate that had a built in taper...damned if I remember who though.


Could pushing the axle forwards give me front driveshaft issues?
 
ya. i think jk offroad makes them.

it could give your driveshaft problems. it could be too short. you'll have to check it and maybe get it lengthened.
 
Yeah, definitely need to consider that. The piggy bank isn't big enough to do driveshaft mods right now.
 
Hehehehe...you said junkyards...heh...the locals are highway robbers and the pickin's are few and far in between.
"I love livin' in da woods!"


not...
 
So...tRUSTy is the only guy that's done this and YZ and me are the only ones who are contemplating it...?
 
No junk yards? What those cherry growers up there don't use pick-up trucks? Just kidding, I am thinking about doing it too, but then again I do a lot more thinking than doing. I would love to hear how it turns out. Especially the driveshaft part.

Anybody know of a longer driveshaft that will bolt in? In my case (hi, jack) what drivetrain combo is longer than a 700R4 and 241 and will fit the yoke of a 10B?
 
Oh there's lots of pickups around the groves and forests up here but the yards are scraping everything older than the mid 90's. Last spring I needed a new passenger side seatbelt and it took me a week to find one and I had to drive 45 minutes to meet the guy from the yard that had it.

What else would have a D60 front yoke, NP208 rear yoke, and be slightly longer than a TH400/NP208 combo?
 
I bought a set awhile back with a 12 degree angle cut into them. I will try to get there info again. I want to say it was from off road design and the kept the normal price just did a custom angle on mine. Let me double check it though.

They were JKW offroad; http://www.jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php Scroll down the page and there they are. I contacted them and had them do a 12 degree for me. I think it cost me $40 (don't quote me on that). It was either the same or like $5-$10 more than normal. They worked really good but then again the blazer hasn't left the garage or driveway in 2 or 3 years.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Oh there's lots of pickups around the groves and forests up here but the yards are scraping everything older than the mid 90's.
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You can get scrap money for rust? Just kidding, I used to live in the Detroit area, so it is Ok if I pick on Michigan. :D Visited Traverse City once, it is very nice up there, but then again I was a tourist.... and it was summer.
 
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