Do you have a vacuum guage? I like to know what the needle says at idle.
CK5
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Off idle stumble/die. FIXED!
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Steady? Or did needle move.
15 is a little low, = late cam timing.
Still before it gets that far need to check that spark
15 is a little low, = late cam timing.
Still before it gets that far need to check that spark
Red is middle am guessing this carb is the 30cc and not the 50cc.
you can try #2 setting adds just a little more to the squirt
you can try #2 setting adds just a little more to the squirt
I don't see anything wrong with it.
I'm going to unhook/cap all vac lines, and put the gauge on it again in a little while. I've tried it every time with just plugging the end of the hose. And last night we found the brake booster hose is cracked in a bunch of surface spots near the intake end. May be leaking there. We're going to try the starting fluid intake test again too.
I'll look down the carb after it's all warmed up, and see what's going on at idle, and with some throttle action.
I'll look down the carb after it's all warmed up, and see what's going on at idle, and with some throttle action.
I was thinking the damper might have spun. Since your hooking vac gauge, advance dist till gauge says 18.5 to 20 high as it will go, with rpm at 750 in park. No advance.
Well. I think we gained some good info today.
When I advanced the timing the vacuum went up. Got to around 18-19. Played with the carb screws to put them at a 1.5 turn starting point again. When I seated either one to count the turns out, the idle came up. So at least the screws changed SOMETHING this time. Didn't affect vac though.
The problem with advancing the timing.....
It got more vacuum, and throttle response was better, but still did the boggy die thing. And then it wouldn't even hardly turn over to start back up. I think the ignition was fighting the starter. Turned it back where it was again, and it spun right over and started instantly.
Did the starting fluid test. I expected it to rev up... But I gave a test shot at the carb and it died down instead... So then I sprayed it in small bursts around carb base, intake, vacuum bung, etc... And when I did it by the cyl 8/6 runner it dropped engine speed. So I went back and sprayed a steady stream at that spot and it bogged down a bunch.
Intake leak is at least part of it lol.
Now the next deal. When I look in the carb, the accelerator pump nozzles never once had any gas come out of em, no matter what I did with the throttle.
When I advanced the timing the vacuum went up. Got to around 18-19. Played with the carb screws to put them at a 1.5 turn starting point again. When I seated either one to count the turns out, the idle came up. So at least the screws changed SOMETHING this time. Didn't affect vac though.
The problem with advancing the timing.....
It got more vacuum, and throttle response was better, but still did the boggy die thing. And then it wouldn't even hardly turn over to start back up. I think the ignition was fighting the starter. Turned it back where it was again, and it spun right over and started instantly.
Did the starting fluid test. I expected it to rev up... But I gave a test shot at the carb and it died down instead... So then I sprayed it in small bursts around carb base, intake, vacuum bung, etc... And when I did it by the cyl 8/6 runner it dropped engine speed. So I went back and sprayed a steady stream at that spot and it bogged down a bunch.
Intake leak is at least part of it lol.
Now the next deal. When I look in the carb, the accelerator pump nozzles never once had any gas come out of em, no matter what I did with the throttle.
Plugged port or if that carb has a bypass ball and spring, they might be missing. If the bowl is full, and you loosen the accelerator pump screws, does fuel run out?
That just tells you that the bowl to pump feed is clean. You need to pull the carb back apart and check the passages. No way around it.
Did the diaphragm get put in correctly? Easy to get it reversed.
I think it has the wrong bolt in it.
I started looking up the nozzles, and found out the hollow bolt that holds it down is 1/4-20 or close. His has a Phillips bolt, that's counter sunk down in it. And every single bolt for the nozzles I've found has been an entirely different style of bolt. Most are flat head, and tall. Couple were allen, and odd shaped. His looks like a normal bolt. I'm going to go pull it out in a bit and see if it right or not.
I started looking up the nozzles, and found out the hollow bolt that holds it down is 1/4-20 or close. His has a Phillips bolt, that's counter sunk down in it. And every single bolt for the nozzles I've found has been an entirely different style of bolt. Most are flat head, and tall. Couple were allen, and odd shaped. His looks like a normal bolt. I'm going to go pull it out in a bit and see if it right or not.
Thank you guys for all the ideas. I now have much more knowledge on trouble shooting carbs. One of my lacking areas.
I are stoopid I guess. All this time dickin with it I never actually watched the accel pump arm.. It always just pushed the spring up I guess. I did it today and noticed the spring moved but not the arm. Pulled the nozzles off and tried again and still no arm movement and no gas.
Pulled it and found that the little check valve under the nozzles was stuck down in it's seat. Freed it up, put it all back together and it's a new car lol.
Still needs a lot of tuning/timing. And I think we need to adjust the rockers, but it's definitely SO MUCH better.
Not sure how I missed that. But got it now.
I are stoopid I guess. All this time dickin with it I never actually watched the accel pump arm.
. It always just pushed the spring up I guess. I did it today and noticed the spring moved but not the arm. Pulled the nozzles off and tried again and still no arm movement and no gas. Pulled it and found that the little check valve under the nozzles was stuck down in it's seat. Freed it up, put it all back together and it's a new car lol.
Still needs a lot of tuning/timing. And I think we need to adjust the rockers, but it's definitely SO MUCH better.
Not sure how I missed that. But got it now.
I have had those types of repairs. Deal with a bunch of stuff and it was something simple. Glad you found it.
