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Offroading with 35s

T

think_07

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Red Deer Alberta
What kind of limits have you guys found with running 35s on your K5s. I would like to run about a 38.5 or so, but with my 1/2 ton gear that won't be an option yet because I plan on running it pretty hard, so for now i'm thinking about running a 35, or maybe 37 inch bogger since I hear they are always abit small. So do you think i'll be able to do alright with 35s, or is everyone going to run circles around me. Mostly around here is mud, some trails, creeks, etc. etc. I don't plan on really doing any rock climbing or anything like that. So how have you guys found your k5s performed with 35s, stories and pics would be great.
 
I run them on my truck, but it is 3/4, and k5, pauly383 runs them, and he runs them hard. just remember, light throttle..

IMG_0734.jpg


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i'm sure pauly will be along shortly with pics...
 
Nice pics. Does your "truggy" with the 10b/12b have stock axle shafts etc. ? Are the diffs welded or locked, or are they open? It seems to be doing good with 35s.
 
think_07 said:
Nice pics. Does your "truggy" with the 10b/12b have stock axle shafts etc. ? Are the diffs welded or locked, or are they open? It seems to be doing good with 35s.
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I don't think that's his truggy, that looks like a full bodied K5 to me. I know many of the AZ guys run 1/2 ton axles locked F/R and carry spares.

My 1/2 ton axles didn't hold up very well on 33's, just locked in the rear. I broke a 12 bolt detroit and a front D44 u-joint. After that, I swapped to a D60 and FF 14 bolt before using 37" (and now 42") tires.
 
Yup, that's mine, had a crappy locker in the back that I blew up, and now it's got spools front and rear, haven't been out with them yet, but I do carry spare shafts for front and rear.

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My k5 is 3/4 ton and runs 35 BFGKMs.
I've been out of the loop for a bit, but when I actually had the truck, it performed really well. Dragged the pumpkin a bit in the rear, but was fine for trail riding. 4" lift and a fender trim and I was set.
 
Jason4x4 said:
Yup, that's mine, had a crappy locker in the back that I blew up, and now it's got spools front and rear, haven't been out with them yet, but I do carry spare shafts for front and rear.
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Whats that thing weigh? Not much left to it eh haha.
 
No Idea, but it now has a full cage. and pauly383 has a full bodied blazer with so much spare parts in the back that when he unloads it, it comes up 2".
 
Yeah , I am around 6000 pounds loaded in the 83 . And all I have broken shaftwise is one long side inner up front , 28 spline .

I did break a weld for the tubes on a rear 12 bolt once , but to be fair I was bouncing it on the golden stairs in Moab ....................... and as soon as I stopped , I creeped a little to the left and went right up anyway slowly , I shoulda just tried it MY WAY to begin with :thumb:
 
35's can take you a lot of places and are a good compromise if you're going to run 1/2 ton gear. I'm running 35's with a locker in the rear with no problems (yet!) but I'm a very mellow driver that will try a lot of different lines before resorting to mashing the skinny pedal.

YetiBlazerFlex.jpg


Related note: With the ground clearance you'll lose running a 14bolt, running 35's on a 12 bolt is like running 38's (or larger!) on a 14b as far as dragging the rear dif over stuff! :)
 
I have been running my 1/2t stuff for ever and love it. Just converted to eight lug on my 10blt Still going strong my next thing for that is the Super Joints from yukon and the Chromolly shafts. You just have to learn your throttle and know your tires and rig. Learn where everything sits and where and when it hits. Try not to put yourself in situations where you might loose it. Good Luck. there are lots of guys in here still running thier 1/2's with no problem
 
I'd say that trading the rear 10b or 12b out for a 14b )even a semi floater and your good to run 37's with finesse. Said and done my setup will be:

dana 44 front - 3.73's powertrax, stock shafts with spares on board
Corporate 14b full floater - 3.73's mini locker (not sure), with a pinion guard

Thats on 36in TSL's with 350/sm465/208. I'll be right in between huge rigs and light rigs.
 
I ran 35's for two years, open front and rear. Being open/open, ask any of the Colorado Crew, I was no slouch in the throttle department. NEVER broke anything. Then I spent another year running the same tires on my 3/4 ton set up (locked front and rear) still 10 bolt front, never broke anything there either. The insurance of 3/4 or 1-ton is a nice feeling of reliability, but like the AZ guys, I'd feel confortable on 35's with 1/2t running gear as long as you wheel with your brain and not your testicles.
 
I can't speak for your area but here in socal 35's and some decent flex will get you through 90% of the trails.
 
454k30 said:
I can't speak for your area but here in socal 35's and some decent flex will get you through 90% of the trails.
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Alas I'm still trying to find trails around here. Here in NJ everyone is about mud. Then theres me mr technical who likes low range crawling and trails that are actually a challenge.
 
There are only 2 things you need to have a successful wheeler:

1. Traction
2. Clearance


This is not my concept. This came straight out of "The 4-Wheeler's Bible" by Jim Allen.

Big tires are great (clearance), but without lockers you aren't going far (traction). Clearance can be achieved in other ways...not just with big tires. Getting rid of large overhangs (front and rear) will make a difference, and if you can make adjustments to improve the underbelly clearance (remove step bumpers, raise transfercase, etc) you'll make the most of the clearance those 35's provide.

The Jim Allen book is a good read. He mostly drove Jeeps...so he knows how to make due with much smaller tires..... check out Amazon.com I'm sure it's still in print.


:usaflag:
 
I ran 33's and 35's for years when I was still 1/2 ton, and still ran the 35's for a couple years after going 3/4 ton (10-bolt front, 14FF rear). With a locker in the 14 FF and posi in the front I had a lot of fun. It all comes down to what trails you are running, and who you are running with.

Different trails all have different difficulties, and a lot of trails I have been on there are alternate lines you can take....easy side and a hard side. Just with the smaller tires you just can't always run the harder obstacles.

For our monthly club runs we have a full range of vehicles from big-block 1-ton axled trucks on 42's to Sami's on 30's and open diffs. On the smaller "private" rides then usually the vehicles stay closer together in capability. There are only a few actual trails we won't go on with the smaller vehicles as most places they can take bypasses.

In regards to going from a 1/2 ton (10 or 12-bolt rear) to a 14FF and still using 35's I think it is a good idea. I did this and with just some slight trimming on the 14FF really never noticed anything major difference with ground clearance. It's nice knowing you have a bomb-proof rear axle and "should" never break on you, which allows you to hit obstacles harder. Sure, the front is not any stronger if you retain the D44 or 10-bolt, but there is very little you can break in the front and completely disable the vehicle.......unlock the hubs and slap it in 2wd. If you grenade a 1/2 ton rear you can cause a lot of problems.
 
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