Oh ya it's in btw

[MrSchaeferPants]

So busy week. Jimmy is running just fine, need to re-tune since the break in is done. Needa go buy a piston stop since it's now the wrong balaner (12 oclock balaner, 2 oclock tab), could make one from the reads ups here but then I'd have to buy a tap... so might as well buy the tool.

I'm awful with before and after, but here's after:

Finished candy cane exhaust. Got my tailpipe put on today, but a magnaflow cat, 2 8" cherry bombs.

And the bracket I made cause the stock exhaust bracket wasn't far enough back, so all of the weight was at the cat/y'pipe, so I made this one to go as far rear as possible to kinda center the weight. But it's removable, and mounts to stock bracket.

New engine almost done

Complete... for now

So GM performance 290/350, new MSD Streetfire distributor, water pump, power steering pump with high pressure/return line/pulley, alternator, motor mounts, hoses, belts, harmonic balancer, fuel pump, fuel line, fixed the stock oil cooler (kit was $10) Exhaust manifold will stay for a while, which is why the cheapo exhaust, it's gunna get all redone.

But my new to me tires on, 31 BFG Land Terrains, new windshield. Perhaps this weekend I'll drop the tank, remove the broken L/R shock mount and install my fixed one, and buy new shocks. Just gotta put the dash pad back on and clean out the truck. Think I needa adjust my TV cable.

Oh ya, new job started Wednesday, taking up all my time.

 

[Big Ray]

Cool!

feels good, don't it?

But why, oh why, the stock manifolds? $$ tight?

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Cool!

feels good, don't it?

But why, oh why, the stock manifolds? $$ tight?

After all the above mentioned brand new parts, I need to pace myself. I have a bad habbit of keeping going and going and going... till I AM Broke.

I'm only going to be driving this for another month, if that. Then I'll be out of state for a few months for a job, then probably back for a few weeks, month or two, then gone for a year. So, exhaust is good enough till I'm back and done. Then there will be new exhaust all the way through. And many many more goodies.

 

[Big Ray]

I'm a little slow these days..didn't the balancer and the tab come with the new motor...?

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

I'm a little slow these days..didn't the balancer and the tab come with the new motor...?

Nope, just the valve covers and oil pan. Tabs did, two for a 6.75 an 8". BUT for timing marks for 2 oclock positions. I will in the future buy a balancer for that tab, nice purdy one with timing marks.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Remember that you will also need a degree wheel to go along with the piston stop in order to find exact TDC.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Ya I've read up on it a few times, but kept forgetting where exactly I made my two marks on the balancer. My question is, how do I spin he engine backwards to make my 2nd mark? There a tool to mount to the three crank bolts so I don't just loosen them?

 

[4X4HIGH]

Ya I've read up on it a few times, but kept forgetting where exactly I made my two marks on the balancer. My question is, how do I spin he engine backwards to make my 2nd mark? There a tool to mount to the three crank bolts so I don't just loosen them?

With all the spark plugs removed you should be able to use the damper bolt to turn the engine backwards without loosening the bolt (I do it all the time).

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Alright I'll give that a shot when the time comes.

 

[sweetk30]

ya like 4x4high scott said PLUGS OUT . if you try with in you can loosen or snap the bolt if turned the wrong way.

 

[pmpski_1]

Been lurking here for a while but I just wanted to put in my 2 cents. Don't use the balancer bolt to turn it. Yeah, it will work, but there is a chance that it will break, and once it's broken... Don't ask how I know. I use the flywheel now. It's a pain, but not as big of a pain as replacing that broken balancer bolt.

Here's the tool that I use on the flywheel: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80510?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80510&N=700+%2D111038+115&autoview=sku

Here's a good write up on how timing and finding TDC with just a piston stop:
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=290498

 

[cuervo]

Been lurking here for a while but I just wanted to put in my 2 cents. Don't use the balancer bolt to turn it. Yeah, it will work, but there is a chance that it will break, and once it's broken... Don't ask how I know. I use the flywheel now. It's a pain, but not as big of a pain as replacing that broken balancer bolt.

Here's the tool that I use on the flywheel: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/W...art=WMR-W80510&N=700+-111038+115&autoview=sku

Here's a good write up on how timing and finding TDC with just a piston stop:
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=290498

If you broke the balancer bolt by turing int CCW I'd say it was your technique that was at fault. Sorry.

 

[pmpski_1]

If you broke the balancer bolt by turing int CCW I'd say it was your technique that was at fault. Sorry.

No apologies necessary - yes, it was my fault. And it's a pretty easy mistake for someone to make if they don't have a lot of experience or know what they're doing. So, based on my experience, I recommend doing it a less error prone way.

 

[cuervo]

No apologies necessary - yes, it was my fault. And it's a pretty easy mistake for someone to make if they don't have a lot of experience or know what they're doing. So, based on my experience, I recommend doing it a less error prone way.

If I have the inspection cover off of the trans I more often then not use a lug wrench or large screw driver to turn the flexplate.

And with just 8 post in 5 years you are a pretty good lurker!

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

I figured if i were to turn it at the crank, I'd use one of the crank pulley bolts, cause if it snapped, all I'd have to do is remove the balancer and extract the bolt, and the crank itself would be ok.

 

[pmpski_1]

I figured if i were to turn it at the crank, I'd use one of the crank pulley bolts, cause if it snapped, all I'd have to do is remove the balancer and extract the bolt, and the crank itself would be ok.

Sounds simple enough, just not very much fun when it's in the truck Especially when it takes just a little more effort when doing it with the flywheel. Hey, I'm not saying you can't do this with the crank bolt, I'm just saying there's a chance that it will take a lot longer than you want it to if you snap that bolt.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Sounds simple enough, just not very much fun when it's in the truck Especially when it takes just a little more effort when doing it with the flywheel. Hey, I'm not saying you can't do this with the crank bolt, I'm just saying there's a chance that it will take a lot longer than you want it to if you snap that bolt.

Oh def, I understand, just kinda thinking out loud in a sense. Won't be doing this for a bit so I got time. I might even just go get a new balancer. All I need to do is find exact TDC, so technically if I were to buy the correct balancer, timming groove should be correct, right? Thinking of getting the 8" professional product 80002, meant for 2 oclock timming pointers wtih 0-60 btdc marks.

 

[pmpski_1]

Oh def, I understand, just kinda thinking out loud in a sense. Won't be doing this for a bit so I got time. I might even just go get a new balancer. All I need to do is find exact TDC, so technically if I were to buy the correct balancer, timming groove should be correct, right? Thinking of getting the 8" professional product 80002, meant for 2 oclock timming pointers wtih 0-60 btdc marks.

Check out the link I posted earlier - it tells you how to find TDC using the piston stop, despite the timing mark on the balancer. Unless you put the balancer on there during your engine build, or you know it's correct from the factory, I would double check it. (I would double check it anyway. Then when you time it again in 30k you can tell if it slipped) Just buying a new balancer doesn't guarantee anything - if the mark is off you need to find TDC anyway.

High level overview -
1. Get the #1 piston coming up on the compression stroke
2. Put the piston stop in and turn the flywheel until the piston hits the piston - gently.
3. Make a mark on your balancer using the timing tab.
4. Now turn the flywheel the other way, until the piston hits the stop again.
5. Make a mark on the balancer using the timing tab.
6. TDC is between the two marks.

The link I posted goes into much better detail about the entire timing process. I've used those instructions a couple times already and it's worked out pretty well for me.