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Oil pan change

cameronsaddress

cameronsaddress

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Is it possible to change the oil pan and gasket without removing the flywheel and pushing the tc back on a 72? I have read that some folks needed to pull the engine or set 2x4 blocks between the mounts.

...or can I simply remove bolts and swap it out?

Thanks!
 
If you have the stock crossmember, you'll need to lift the engine several inches to allow the pan to come off. I tried every-which way to do it but the oil pump doesn't let it come off unless you drop the pan down a lot. If you can rent a cherry-picker, just unbolt the mounts and lift the motor up a few inches. If you do all the unbolting first and let the oil drain before you rent the lift, you can get it all back together in one afternoon as only have to pay for one day rental.

Replace the rear main seal as well while your there. I didn't and I regret it.


-Brian
 
I just had to do this on mine. Not only did I use the 1 piece fel-pro gasket, but I got to try out my DIY4x crossmember. Might not be a bad time for that upgrade if you want to spend the $ on it right now. Will make future repairs much easier. With that c-member the center section unbolts so you don't have to lift the engine. I did the pan gasket and rear main in about 2 hours. Just some food for thought.
 
When you lift the engine do you need to disconnect headers, Flexplate, ...what else...?
 
Crossmember

As far as I know everything *should* be able to flex up as you lift the motor, but I'd at least loosen the trans mounts just to help it move a little easier. You don't need to unbolt the engine from the trans though.
 
Thanks guys.

Do you have any how-to info or websites about removing the old stock crossmember and installing the diy4x?
 
No website, but you just need to lift the motor up slightly, unbolt the old crossmember and bolt the new one in. Not difficult, just takes a little time. Once it's in there that removeable center piece makes things really nice though. :thumb:
 
Well,
It looks like the new cross member is out of the question for a while, but I did order a new pan and the fel pro gasket. Does anyone have any steps on how to get the motor lifted and how to get the pan and gasket changed out?

Can I use a floor jack?


Also, can you please verify that this pan will work with my engine? (stock 350)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3500P/

Thanks guys!
 
That's the pan, but why replace it? Is your old one damaged? I don't know how you would do it with a floor jack since you need to hold the engine up off the motor mounts the entire time the crossmember is out. A cherry picker isn't that expensive to rent or even buy on craigslist.

1. Remove hood
2. Unbolt motor mounts
3. Remove distributor and plug hole with rag.
4. Bolt a chain between the front of one head to the back of the other using an open accessory threaded hole and some good 3/8" bolts.
5. Hook up a cherry picker to the chain and lift the engine up a couple inches. The suspension will also unload so it might need to actually be ~6".
6. Unbolt crossmember and pry it out from between the frame rails. It'll be kinda tough since it's tight in there.
7. Unbolt the pan and drop it down. (after draining the engine oil!)
8. Reverse


-Brian
 
thanks Brian. The old pan is all bent and dinged up. the plug hole threads dont have many more turns left. I think its deformity might be causing gasket leaking issues too.

...plus the new pan is chevy orange ;)

I have 2 questions about your steps.

1: must the hood come off? I'm concerned about realignment because my right hinge is weak.
2: can you please explain step 4. Sorry, Im a bit new to the terminology.

Thanks again!
 
No, the hood shouldn't have to come all the way off.

As for the chain, he means put a chain across the engine and put a bolt into one of the accessory holes on the front of one head and the back of the block on the other to lift the engine with. Personally, I'd get a lift plate. You take the carb off, bolt the plate down and just put the hook from the engine hoist into one of the three holes.

Only reason a floor jack won't work is you're taking the oil pan off, so you can't lift it by that. Plus, while the engine crossmember is out you need to continue lifting the engine. You could use a floor jack to remove the old engine crossmember and install the new DIY one, then take the center piece back out but you said it's a no go on that upgrade for now. It shouldn't be too bad for you either way.
 
The reason I recommended removing the hood is that if you use a chain in step 4, it needs to be long enough to go over the carb. Then the hoist lifts from that chain right above the carb. If you lift the engine just a little too much, the hoist will put a nice dent in the hood. Don't ask how I know this. :)

You might be able to get away with just removing the carb and lifting from a lower point as said above, but there wasn't enough room in my case.


-Brian
 
You are not pulling the motor so you should be fine just bolting a chain to a couple accessory holes in the front of the motor and lifting it that way. Remove your HEI cap before lifting it though it will break when you jack up the motor.

I have a nice and tight passenger side hood hinge, $40 shipped if you want it, its been bead blasted and painted semi-gloss black. :whistle:
 
Oh man thanks, but I actually need the drivers side :( Plus the boss might kill me if I spend any more cash right now.

I appreciate it though!
 
My little opinion

The DIY crossmember is a must have piece for 1st gens. It is simply an amazing product.
 
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