CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Oil pan Gasket R & R

Manuel Raptor

Newbie
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Ca.
Whats the best way without removing the engine. Oh its on a 72 K5 350 4WD?
Thanks
Manuel
 
I'm about to do the same thing on the same truck. Any help out there, really don't want to lift engine. But if I have to what should I loosen and disconnect.
 
I beleive on a 72 you will have to lift the engine up some--the crossmember is very close to the pan and I doubt you can get it off ,there wont be enough room..

My Chiltons manual says to remove the engine mount bolts,jack the engine up with a board under the pan,and place 2x4 blocks between the motor mount and the brackets on the frame,to gain enough clearance--you might have to remove the fan or shroud,and watch out the distributor doesn't hit the firewall,they are real close on that year truck and cracking the cap or busting the casting is easy to do if your not careful!..
 
I did mine last year.Took 5min to get it off and don't remember if I had to drop the starter but that takes 2 seconds with a gun.The only thing that took a little time was cleaning the block surface so I could glue the gaskets up there with 3M general trim adhesive.
Did a pan on a jeep Monday and the book said 3.2 and that time included dropping the front diff for clearance.What a nightmare that was.I did get it done in the time the book said but had to torch the pan off to gain access to the sump bolts because the gasket is also a windage tray and they are both bolted to the main cap studs.Reason I needed a torch is there was no way in hell the pan was letting go of the gasket no matter how hard I beat it.
 
Be glad its not a Ford truck with a 7.3 diesel--my friend just did an oil pan swap on one in his landlords truck,the old one was rotted to death--he had to remove the grille & headlights,remove the front cab bolts,take off the motor mount bolts and a bunch of wiring (actually one big plug with all the wires unbolts from the firewall like a GM fuse box on a diesel!)--then he had to use the lift to hoist the cab up as far as he could until it hits the bed,and jack the motor up with an enjine hoist as far as possible until he could just squeak the pan by the crosmembers and the flexplate...
It wasn't quite as bad as he thought it woud be--he did it over a 2 day period,not rushing it,in a well equipped shop...but he said he's not planning on doing any more anytime soon,and would have refused the job,if it wasn't his landlord--dealer wanted 1700 bucks to do it,I think he may get a months rent for free (1000 bucks!) for doing it for him...

My 82 K2500 has needed the oil pan replaced for at least 3 years,I have been putting it off ,the J-B Waterweld putty worked great for a long time,now its starting to weep and drip all around the "patch" though--gonna see if my friend can get to do it before snow flies...the oil cooler lines are rotted to hell too,I've been waiting for them to pop and kill the motor..:(..fuel injector lines are all crispy critters too..:mad:
 
You could always cut the cross member off and weld it back later...
 
Youll need to lift the engine up a few inches to be able to remove the crossmember. The oil pump is too deep to remove the pan with the crossmember in place unless you lift the engine up like 6".


-Brian
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom