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Oil Pressure Gauge?

Chevy305

Chevy305

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On my '78 K10 I have been trying to get the oil pressure gauge working right. I confirmed the wiring and gauge is functional. So I replaced the sensor with a "Tru Tech" P/N: PS154T. So now the gauge works but it doesn't have a smooth swing. It stops and only seems to read in 20psi increments. Is that normal?
 
Cheap sender... buy the "better" one.
 
Chevy305 said:
On my '78 K10 I have been trying to get the oil pressure gauge working right. I confirmed the wiring and gauge is functional. So I replaced the sensor with a "Tru Tech" P/N: PS154T. So now the gauge works but it doesn't have a smooth swing. It stops and only seems to read in 20psi increments. Is that normal?
Click to expand...

Funny, if I look hard enough, I find some oil pressure switches with that part number. The majority seem to be the correct bell shaped sending unit, but just confirming that you have this piece, and that for some reason there wasn't a switch on there in the first place, the root of your initial problem...
 
The replacement was nearly identical to the original bell shaped one. Maybe it's just a cheap sender?
 
The problem is i have the 0-60 psi gauge but there's about 50 different part numbers. Some cross referencing led me to get the PS154T. So maybe it could be wrong for my application?
 
Chevy305 said:
The problem is i have the 0-60 psi gauge but there's about 50 different part numbers. Some cross referencing led me to get the PS154T. So maybe it could be wrong for my application?
Click to expand...

As far as I know, and that's just CYA in case someone comes back and proves me wrong, there are only two sending units used in these trucks. One for 60psi gauges, and one for 80psi gauges. The 80psi is pretty rare, want to think 6.2l diesel only, but they are out there. However both *sender's* and gauges operate the same, the sender would just indicate wrong pressure if used with the incorrect gauge. No odd jumping around or anything like that.

In times like these when the aftermarket isn't any help, download the gm parts manuals in my links, find your years sending unit, and cross that part number with the ac delco part number, then cross that with the aftermarket. Sometimes the aftermarket can cut corners by making one piece that is generic enough to fit multiple apps, where GM was less generic, but should ensure you get close. In any case, jerky gauge movement is not normal regardless....something is wrong. I like having spares in cases like this.
 
Is there a different sender for the KPa gauges as well?
 
dyeager535 said:
As far as I know, and that's just CYA in case someone comes back and proves me wrong, there are only two sending units used in these trucks. One for 60psi gauges, and one for 80psi gauges. The 80psi is pretty rare, want to think 6.2l diesel only, but they are out there. However both *sender's* and gauges operate the same, the sender would just indicate wrong pressure if used with the incorrect gauge. No odd jumping around or anything like that.

In times like these when the aftermarket isn't any help, download the gm parts manuals in my links, find your years sending unit, and cross that part number with the ac delco part number, then cross that with the aftermarket. Sometimes the aftermarket can cut corners by making one piece that is generic enough to fit multiple apps, where GM was less generic, but should ensure you get close. In any case, jerky gauge movement is not normal regardless....something is wrong. I like having spares in cases like this.
Click to expand...
Okay i did some digging. I found the orginal GM P/N for my oil pressure sender is: 459417. This crosses over to the aftermarket P/N: PS154. I bought a PS154T. The 'T' indicates the economy line... :doah: So I'm pretty sure it's jumpy because it's just a cheap sensor... Oh well, guess I'll have to live with it, maybe it'll smooth out with time?
Thanks for the help!
 
The gauge in my pickup with a 6.2 has been "wavy" since the day I got it..
I attribute it to the sensor ,probably had its guts shaken loose by the diesel's vibration...the needle vibrates rapidly at all pressures ,about a 5-10 psi fluxuation, when its at idle or slightly above,if I rev it up a bit higher it seems to steady out and not waver..

I do have another sending unit on a parts engine,but I have not had the ambition to try swapping it and see it it cures it--its a pain to get at and as long as its not leaking ,I'm not gonna mess with it..with my luck it will snap off in the block if I go messing with it..:surepal:

I trust aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauges a lot more than the factory ones--even the cheap ones I've bought always read steady and accurate..
 
89' K5
350 TBI

Oil pressure gauge goes straight to zero when I'm idling. Truck has plenty of oil in it, is this normal? I'm a new Chevy convert from always being a Bronco guy so go easy on me. Pressure rises as it should with throttle, but just going straight 0 is a little concerning for me. Thanks in advance.
 
I'd put a mechanical gauge on it pronto to test and see exactly what the pressure is--it may be just a faulty sending unit,but if its truly dropping to zero, you likely have internal issues like worn bearings (which usually make a rattle after a cold start for several seconds),or the oil pump might be bad, or the pickup screen may be clogged with sludge..

Usually an engine with hydraulic lifters will start to clatter when oil pressure is lost..and not long after that the cam lobes and lifters suffer permanent damage..so if yours stays quiet that is a good sign,and it might just be the sending unit or gauge is faulty and scaring you..
 
diesel4me said:
I'd put a mechanical gauge on it pronto to test and see exactly what the pressure is--it may be just a faulty sending unit,but if its truly dropping to zero, you likely have internal issues like worn bearings (which usually make a rattle after a cold start for several seconds),or the oil pump might be bad, or the pickup screen may be clogged with sludge..

Usually an engine with hydraulic lifters will start to clatter when oil pressure is lost..and not long after that the cam lobes and lifters suffer permanent damage..so if yours stays quiet that is a good sign,and it might just be the sending unit or gauge is faulty and scaring you..
Click to expand...


Engine runs strong with no noises, knocks, etc. gonna throw a gauge on it this week.

Also have a code 32 that pops up after about 10 minutes of driving. No misses or anything, gonna dig into that as well.
 
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