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oil pressure ?

RAY

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I was wondering if there is more than one oil pressure sending unit on a carbed 350. My oil pressure was acting funny the last couple of days. IT has dropped from being around 45 psi when warm to almost 0. The is no noise coming from the lifters. I have replaced the oil pressure sending unit above the oil filter with no change. Is this the sign that my gauge is bad? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Ray
 

pauly383

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[ QUOTE ]
I have replaced the oil pressure sending unit above the oil filter

[/ QUOTE ]

Does your truck have a copper/zinc colored can with a wire behind distributor on drivers side? I have a 83 and have both the one above oil filter ( mines unused ), and the one behind distributor . I may be wrong , but I thought the one in the block above the filter was a safety cutout of some type , and the other one went to gauge. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 

big83chevy4x4

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there should be only one near the distributor. that is for the guage.

on both my 83s my k10 had a 78 350 the top was for the gueage and the bottom (by the oil filter) had some think but was unused
my k20 had the original motor and the top was for the guage and the bottom was used but not sure for what. it is unused now
 

mccomas

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my 86 is right behind the cap - the bell shaped item to the right of the cap in this pic

14470sender_001-med.jpg
 

dyeager535

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And it looks like the choke (or in TBI the oil pressure fuel) switch is mounted to that "T" as well, just further behind the distributor.
 

FWP

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I would get a mechanical gage hooked up to where the sender is now and see what the pressure really is. If it really is 0, you have some engine work to do.
 

southernspeed

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Get someone to watch your gauge while you VERY MOMENTERILY touch the connecter at the switch to earth. The guage should flick right across if it is working. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 

elacruze

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I just gained 10 lbs of oil pressure, as well as 5 volts, by taking my dash out and cleaning the contacts between the gauges and the circuit sheet. Just hit the contact areas with a Q-tip soaked in electric motor cleaner. If that doesn't help, test the gauge. The sending unit behind the distributor (AFAIK) sends power to the idiot light, and sends power to the electric choke so that it won't open the choke if you sit with the key on and the engine not running. I don't think it's connected to the guage at all on electric choke vehicles. BTW replace the B@$tard if your choke doesn't open correctly. : )
 
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