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Oil question

Mike C.

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Hey all,

Pulled apart top of engine investigating what i had busted 4wheeling a couple years back when I lost coolant without realizing it. When I took my intake manifold off I saw a lifter broken in half in the block. Part of the bottom of the liftrr was stuck in block but I will be able to get it. When I pulled oil plug to drain so I could access bottom of cam what came out was a booger like past mixed with good oil. Which is my question. Does that automatically mean I have a blown head? I was talking with my pop and he had said because it sat for so long (about 3 years, I haven't had time to get to it. But do now.) fuel had leaked into the oil from where the lifter broke causing the pasty fluid. Is that a possibility? I'm doing as much as i need to too get my beast running again but i don't want to pull apart anything i don't have to either. Thanks guys ill add pictures as well.

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I wouldn't plan on just dropping in a lifter. With damage like that and oil/water mixed goo in there for 3 years you should be prepared for real serious issues. Yank it out, tear it down and see what you really have going on in there.
 
The valve would have to be stuck open. With no pushrod/lifter in place, there would be no way for fuel to get into the cylinder (assuming everything else is ok).

I could see fuel leaking into the oil over time if it was poured into the intake and a valve or valves were open, but without being actively pumped into the intake, there isn't that much in a carb.
 
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I'd be surprised if the cam didn't snap also!..

I have seen oil turn goopey like that after an engine sits a long time,just about every one we drained the oil out of at the junkyard had sludge like that in with it..condensation can do it or add to it too..

Its a good bet that engine will need a lot of work,the cylinders may be rusty from sitting,even if it spins freely the rust will not do the rings and pistons any good...valves may be stuck by now too..
 
No fuel can get in the lifter bore. Your pic looks like condensation. But a failed lifter on a flat tappet means cam and lifters. And springs, timing set, and gaskets. All this is minimum
 
Thank you for the responses fellas! As soon as I pulled the plug for the oil I knew the engine was gonna need some serious work. My pop had just got my hopes up a bit. Looks like I'll be rebuilding...would the cam shaft really split from over heating? When I pull the heads and cam cover I'll yank her out too and give it a look. When I spun the shaft it was actually surprising easy until i got to the valve with broken lifter in it..this will be my first go at an engine rebuild so I'll probably newby ask for wise advice. I inherited this truck and plan to pass it onto my boy one day. Its a fairly new engine with maybe 80k miles on it. I also have the whole interior stripped down to do some grinding and replacing of floor panels which will be another first.
 
Have any of used bought parts from a company called Maabco? Was looking at their rebuild set and asked around but noone had heard of the company. Just a question of quality
 
Crack that engine open and see what you are dealing with before going too deep into rebuild parts. If you add up parts and machine work it is often easier to grab a long block from GM or some of the big rebuilders. It seems wrong but rebuilding a stock motor often does not save any money if it is pretty torn up. If you have some performance parts to use or are looking for something special then go to the machine shop.
 
When you pull it apart be sure to check for warping. If your engine overheated bad enough to break a lifter like that, chances are high that you have warping and would likely be cheaper to get a new long block.
 
I will start pulling more apart today to try and see what other issues exist...when you say warping, is it the engine block your talking about?
 
I will start pulling more apart today to try and see what other issues exist...when you say warping, is it the engine block your talking about?

Block and heads

 
I must add in my 50 years of fooling with engines,I have seen some bizzare failures of parts--but I've never seen a lifter break that way before!..either it's made of brittle scrap iron or had a flaw in the steel ,maybe the engine was over-revved and it decided to break in half ?...weird :screwy:

The cam lobe most likely had a severe shock load applied when the lifter either seized in its bore or cocked sideways enough to bind it up,the cam is pretty brittle iron and hasn't much tensile strength--I have broken one when it rolled off the bench 3 feet down to a concrete floor,it landed squarely and two halves rolled away !..:doah:
It was a brand new one right out of the box I showed to a customer at a parts store I worked at..
 
I must add in my 50 years of fooling with engines,I have seen some bizzare failures of parts--but I've never seen a lifter break that way before!..either it's made of brittle scrap iron or had a flaw in the steel ,maybe the engine was over-revved and it decided to break in half ?...weird :screwy:

The cam lobe most likely had a severe shock load applied when the lifter either seized in its bore or cocked sideways enough to bind it up,the cam is pretty brittle iron and hasn't much tensile strength--I have broken one when it rolled off the bench 3 feet down to a concrete floor,it landed squarely and two halves rolled away !..:doah:
It was a brand new one right out of the box I showed to a customer at a parts store I worked at..

Yea it was pretty crazy when the motor gave out on me. I was treading through some mud out in the backwoods when it started sounded like an automatic rifle. Happened real fast just thump thump thump bang. And i couldnt kill the motor fast enough happened in seconds. Popped ththe hood and realized the coolant had drained out on me while i was tearing it up.
 

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