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Oil weight for 454

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Anyone going to tell me no way I hell I would use 15/40 Diesel oil in a 454!?

Been doing some reading and some guys say use it.
My big reason for wanting to use it is that we buy 15/40 by the 45 gallon drum for our Trucks and tractors...would be nice for me to be able to use it in my truck as well.

What do you all think? :popcorn:
 
I run 15w40 but I use Kendal Titanium because it has the ZDDP additive that so many oils have dropped.
 
just for reference... I run mercruiser synthetic blend 25-40... bit of an odd weight, but it's loaded with zinc for flat tappets, killer quality.. and free..... :whistle: :haha:

oil weight tends to be more a function of what climate the mill is operating in, than anything else...
 
What was the GM spec oil(s) for the 454's under "normal" climate conditions? I assume the spec'd oil changed from the 70's through the 90's?
 
just for reference... I run mercruiser synthetic blend 25-40... bit of an odd weight, but it's loaded with zinc for flat tappets, killer quality.. and free..... :whistle: :haha:

oil weight tends to be more a function of what climate the mill is operating in, than anything else...


Yeah! Free and quality are a good thing!

I was figuring if the oil we got is good enough for 100thousand dollar plus tractors it should be good enough for the BBC! :haha:

I`ll see how much zinc there is in it...but it`s easy enough to add.

So far nobody is saying not to use it! :thumb:


Thanks Paul!
 
that' all we run in the marine Cummins.. TON's of 15-40 Rotella...
 
When my father owned the 15 minute lube shop, we pushed Shell Rotella 15-40. Great oil. As far as running it in the 454? Who cares...remember the first number is the "start up" viscosity and the second number is the "warmed up" viscosity. Due to this might let her warm up just a touch longer on a cold day, but other then that I say go for it!
I thinking from memory here as its been a while since we owned the lube shop, but I think the Rotella has the zinc for flat tappets...

Edit: Rotella doesn't have enough zinc for a flat tappet....

Note: you need a rating of 1000 ppm ZDDP for a flat tappet, I would check to see if your barrel of oil you stock meets this minimum.
 
i run 15-40 rotella in everything i own. one tahoe, a yukon, a suburban and soon to be another gmc jimmy that i have acquired. in the winter it takes about another second at first start up to start but oil pressure is up 5- 10 psi which i like. RUN IT it won't hurt it !!
 
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

After reading this I'm using 5w-30 in everything.
Before, I always ran 10w30 in everything. It's the oil weight when cold that you have to be concerned with. The higher the first number, the higher it is on start up and the less protection it provides when operating cold.
 
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Diesel rated 15W-40 oil was always listed as a "universal" oil,good for all gas & diesel engines,at least back in the 80's and 90's when I worked parts counters..

It has much higher detergent than "regular" gas engine oils,to help keep the soot in the oil,rather than let it settle on engine parts...that is one thing I'd be leery of,using it in a high mileage engine that may have lots of sludge,it'll loosen it up and send it through the oiling system,bearings,etc...I have seen that kill a few old engines that were run on non-detergent oil a long time,or didn't get regular oil changes..

That said,since I have owned my 2 diesel trucks,15W-40 is about all I have bought and used in all the engines,in my lawn tractors,etc..the only one I used 5W-30 in was my Ford Contour,and it probably would have run fine on the 15w-40 due to it having 140K on it..

Today you must make sure the oil has enough zinc for flat tappets,diesel oil used to have enough but the formula has changed as time went by...I wouldn't be afraid to use 15W-40 ,I ran 20W-50 in many of my Chevy's all year round and had no problems related to oiling..
 
Just so it's not a higher mileage engine. I wiped out a cam and lifter set switching to that stuff. Was told later on it has a much higher amount of detergent in with it. Cleaned out my engine too well and too fast. Taking the cam with it. :doah:

I've never used it since. Just barely switched to full synthetic a few years ago.
 
I run the 15w40 Rotella in the Maidens 454...I do take it pretty easy til the engine gets warmed up though. I got flat tappets and solids, so I add some ZDDP additive to each oil change as well...Most of my engines are flat tappets so I buy it by the case.

I got something similar to this from NAPA.
zddp4.jpg
 
The thinnest oil you can get away with. I wouldn't run 5w-30 in an old 454, but I wouldn't run 15/40 or 20/50 either if it's not an user. I run 10/40 in my 454 truck and I'm in a warm climate. For a 34 year old 454 it manages to not burn much of it at all. If I was in a cold climate I'd run 10/30.

Someone mentioned Tahoe's and Yukons... if they are later models with LS engines, 5/30 only. They are not designed to run thicker than that.

I wouldn't run 15/40 Diesel oil in a gas engine, you are paying more money for oil that has ingredients in it that a gas engine doesn't need.
 
What was the GM spec oil(s) for the 454's under "normal" climate conditions? I assume the spec'd oil changed from the 70's through the 90's?

Says 10w30 on the oil fill cap. That is what is in it now.

When my father owned the 15 minute lube shop, we pushed Shell Rotella 15-40. Great oil. As far as running it in the 454? Who cares...remember the first number is the "start up" viscosity and the second number is the "warmed up" viscosity. Due to this might let her warm up just a touch longer on a cold day, but other then that I say go for it!
I thinking from memory here as its been a while since we owned the lube shop, but I think the Rotella has the zinc for flat tappets...

Edit: Rotella doesn't have enough zinc for a flat tappet....

Note: you need a rating of 1000 ppm ZDDP for a flat tappet, I would check to see if your barrel of oil you stock meets this minimum.

Checked out or oil at the farm, It is CO-OP D-MO Gold 15w40 Has a rating of 1200. :thumb:



i run 15-40 rotella in everything i own. one tahoe, a yukon, a suburban and soon to be another gmc jimmy that i have acquired. in the winter it takes about another second at first start up to start but oil pressure is up 5- 10 psi which i like. RUN IT it won't hurt it !!

That is one reason I wanted to try 15/40 I don't like my oil pressure when its hot.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

After reading this I'm using 5w-30 in everything.
Before, I always ran 10w30 in everything. It's the oil weight when cold that you have to be concerned with. The higher the first number, the higher it is on start up and the less protection it provides when operating cold.

My truck never gets started when it is below 50f or 10c Its is kept in my heated garage when it`s cold out.

Diesel rated 15W-40 oil was always listed as a "universal" oil,good for all gas & diesel engines,at least back in the 80's and 90's when I worked parts counters..

It has much higher detergent than "regular" gas engine oils,to help keep the soot in the oil,rather than let it settle on engine parts...that is one thing I'd be leery of,using it in a high mileage engine that may have lots of sludge,it'll loosen it up and send it through the oiling system,bearings,etc...I have seen that kill a few old engines that were run on non-detergent oil a long time,or didn't get regular oil changes..

That said,since I have owned my 2 diesel trucks,15W-40 is about all I have bought and used in all the engines,in my lawn tractors,etc..the only one I used 5W-30 in was my Ford Contour,and it probably would have run fine on the 15w-40 due to it having 140K on it..

Today you must make sure the oil has enough zinc for flat tappets,diesel oil used to have enough but the formula has changed as time went by...I wouldn't be afraid to use 15W-40 ,I ran 20W-50 in many of my Chevy's all year round and had no problems related to oiling..

I like that Bob...I`m going to start using it in our old Lawn tractors now. :thumb:

Just so it's not a higher mileage engine. I wiped out a cam and lifter set switching to that stuff. Was told later on it has a much higher amount of detergent in with it. Cleaned out my engine too well and too fast. Taking the cam with it. :doah:

I've never used it since. Just barely switched to full synthetic a few years ago.

This engine is super clean...and I think it only has 120 thousand klms 74 thousand miles.

I run the 15w40 Rotella in the Maidens 454...I do take it pretty easy til the engine gets warmed up though. I got flat tappets and solids, so I add some ZDDP additive to each oil change as well...Most of my engines are flat tappets so I buy it by the case.

I got something similar to this from NAPA.
zddp4.jpg

Always like your recommendations Dave! Why the fock didn`t you tell me that when we were a NAPA buying oil for it! :haha:

The thinnest oil you can get away with. I wouldn't run 5w-30 in an old 454, but I wouldn't run 15/40 or 20/50 either if it's not an user. I run 10/40 in my 454 truck and I'm in a warm climate. For a 34 year old 454 it manages to not burn much of it at all. If I was in a cold climate I'd run 10/30.

Someone mentioned Tahoe's and Yukons... if they are later models with LS engines, 5/30 only. They are not designed to run thicker than that.

I wouldn't run 15/40 Diesel oil in a gas engine, you are paying more money for oil that has ingredients in it that a gas engine doesn't need.

Well I might not buy diesel grade but it is free...well not free but we have it here. :D

Thanks for all the replies guys! :waytogo: I`m going to use it and be happy. :pimp:
 
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That is one reason I wanted to try 15/40 I don't like my oil pressure when its hot.

Is my thought process incorrect that indicated pressure is a function of resistance to flow, and depending where pressure is measured, high oil pressure due to thicker oil may be a misleading indicator?

I've wondered that about the SBC/BBC oiling systems. As I understand how oil pressure is measured in most of these applications, and how the oiling system works, the ports by the distributor and oil filter are before all the "leaks" that need oiling. Any manufacturer statements I've seen in the "modern" era indicate a dual function of thinner oils...better economy, and quicker lubrication on startup.
 
Is my thought process incorrect that indicated pressure is a function of resistance to flow, and depending where pressure is measured, high oil pressure due to thicker oil may be a misleading indicator?

I've wondered that about the SBC/BBC oiling systems. As I understand how oil pressure is measured in most of these applications, and how the oiling system works, the ports by the distributor and oil filter are before all the "leaks" that need oiling. Any manufacturer statements I've seen in the "modern" era indicate a dual function of thinner oils...better economy, and quicker lubrication on startup.

I think what is even more misleading is my factory mechanical gauge!

We went though the whole oil pressure business in my thread for the truck and everyone said it was fine. I just want to see without changing anything else what if anything the difference will be. :dunno:
 
That's kind of my point...if one were to measure the pressure after it's "leaked" through as many paths as possible, then we'd know thicker oil actually worked to provide better lubrication, at least in theory. Higher pressure after it's gone through the motor=you know you achieved something.

High cold oil pressure works the same way...it doesn't necessarily mean the bearings are getting lubricated better when the engine is cold, it means (at least partially) that the oil pump is working harder to push the fluid.

Not attempting to be argumentative, just trying to understand the theory and science behind running thicker oil to better lubricate, in regards to how oil pressure is measured and flows in these engines. there very well may be folks out there who have done before/after tests which shows the thicker oils keep pressure better throughout the motor, I just haven't seen any comments on that.
 

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