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Ok here we go again..... Oh yea we bad

Metrodps

Metrodps

Strange but nice guy
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So the snow was almost gone and it is time to start formulating the attack plan. I want to take the yellow cab and put on the white one (yes I know the vin will be a rebuild one) so what do I need to do to remove the cabs beside the bolts on bottom (how many on a crew cab vs reg) I know disconnect the steering column. @76zimmer


What about the Hydro Boost set up. The yellow has broken hoses so I know bleed system (?) but can I disconnect the set up some how and leave it intact on the white one?

Going with a single light core support so the 89 wiring should still work.

I want to use the dual tanks from the 89 on the white one so wiring should be the same and I should be able to use the factory plumbing from the yellow truck on the white on so simple pictures and swap on that.

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Cab mounts, column, brakes, throttle, wiring bulkhead, vacuum into cab, washer tubing, ground to passenger head, various smaller wiring bits (tank switch etc.) AC lines if equipped, heater hoses.
 
Metrodps said:
So the snow was almost gone and it is time to start formulating the attack plan. I want to take the yellow cab and put on the white one (yes I know the vin will be a rebuild one) so what do I need to do to remove the cabs beside the bolts on bottom (how many on a crew cab vs reg) I know disconnect the steering column. @76zimmer


What about the Hydro Boost set up. The yellow has broken hoses so I know bleed system (?) but can I disconnect the set up some how and leave it intact on the white one?

Going with a single light core support so the 89 wiring should still work.

I want to use the dual tanks from the 89 on the white one so wiring should be the same and I should be able to use the factory plumbing from the yellow truck on the white on so simple pictures and swap on that.

View attachment 226720
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Nice to hear you're still alive, Lawrence. We were just starting to think about this year's travel plans. :thinking:

Question for ya...why are you wanting to swap the cabs?

Now some answers...yes, you can disconnect the hydrobooster from the firewall (6 bolts, 2 of which are buried inside, above the steering column :doah:) and disconnect the HB input rod from the brake pedal. Then you can simply bolt it onto the new cab, no harm done there, and no reworking the white truck brake system. I will warn you that the input rod socket is pretty fragile, I managed to break mine without even realizing it (see the tail end of my Suburban thread for pictures). Otherwise there should not be any snags. Just keep it supported so it doesn't break the brake lines and you should be good to go.

These are both carbureted rigs, yes? (It would say "fully depress" on the tank switch). If so, the wiring to the tanks & tank switch will be pretty minimal, that will be an easy enough swap. I would avoid reusing the factory plumbing as the rubber lines crack even under static use. I wouldn't expect them to survive relocation to a new chassis without leaks developing. I replaced all of my tank-side rubber lines and still wound up with air leak(s) downstream from there.

Aside from being a pile of work, I don't think you'll have any bad snags. You have the complete donor rig, so all the miscellaneous parts are present.

Like Bent, I am in for the ride once again. :popcorn:

:popcorn:
 
The white one has rust issues that I do not want to deal with (read $$$$$) Some one put carpet pieces under the mat in the front and they were wet and frozen so I have a feeling that there will be things there to deal with as well.

The white one has an add on tank and the setup is not working. The plumbing I am speaking of is the steel lines and switching. I have to replace the inner fenders and core support so might as well go the whole nine yards.

One switch is a manual fuel pump and the other is supposed to be a left to aux tank. The tanks switching does not work and with the pump off no fuel gets to the motor; even thought it has a mechanical pump on motor. So with the cab off do the trany swap 4speed to th 400 just need the adapter to the 205.

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The factory mechanical pump setup is simple enough that you should have smooth sailing. Should be easy to swap stuff with a bare frame.

Did you find a utility bed yet?
 
What is wrong with the existing white truck drivetrain? Is this not a driver right now? Or is it just that you want the automatic?
 
Looks like the brotherhood has you covered pretty good!
Sounds like you need to remove the front sheetmetal if your changing core supports and cabs.
How are you lifting each cab? it is a tedious process without a post lift, or other lifting device (forklift?) I lifted mine at the cab mounting supports...the firewall should be a solid place to lift as well, but I wouldn't try it at the rockers...age, rust, and weight can bend that seam. And I'm not sure about lifting a crew cab through the door openings? It can be done with floor jacks and blocking up wood, but it has to get pretty high to clear the frame.
I removed the front end all together. I knew it was all coming apart so I took off everything from the bumpers to the firewall.
There is 2 body mounting bolts at the core support, 6 on the cab (4 outboard the frame rails and 2 inboard), and 8 on the box.
Once you take off the front clip, it becomes easier to remove all the other items.
Wiring...best way to do this is disconnect everything coming out of the firewall connector...trace each wire down and remove it from its termination point (headlights, turn signals, horns, distributor, starter, engine sensors, etc) and coil them up with a ziptie to the firewall. Remove the firewall connector that goes under the truck to the rear section. coil that up and ziptie it to the frame.
A/C system?
Throttle cable/kickdown wiring?
Shifter linkage?
 
Lots of pictures of both trucks and keep the pictures of each truck seperate .
 
Got a break in weather yesterday and started the recon of the swap. My experience and age proved right on the cab. I pulled the carpet out from under the oem rubber mat and yeap rust and perforation. But I have it covered. I still think it is a SRW even thought it has a DRW front. looked at the rear springs and blocks and that is some thing that will have to be outsourced. Here are a few pics.

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If you ever see these holes in a Chevy Truck it means at some point it had a Motorola Two-Way in it.

On the roof the hole for antenna
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RH side where they liked to mount the radio unit; they put plywood to the cab inside and the radio on to the wood.
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Some times people put a first aid kit on the LH side.
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Where they mount the mic holder at.
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The two screw holes where they mount the speaker.
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Lawrence my DRW has the same rear leaf pack as your truck
 
told you in the other post how to remove the 1 or 2 extra leafs and lift block I said was in the rear .

keep up the good work tho.
 
sweetk30 said:
told you in the other post how to remove the 1 or 2 extra leafs and lift block I said was in the rear .

keep up the good work tho.
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Yea but I do not have equipment or strength to wrestle with if. This is and will be the very last truck work I ever do. Already writing the list and making notes.
 
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