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OK I'm Hacked. MPG stuff.

Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

Cheap cold air/ram air intake is if you still have the stock intake with the the plastic hose that goes to the grill by the battery tray and connects. It is held in with a piece that is a flat disc on the grill side. I cut that disc off but left the piece that had the ears on it so I could still leave it attached like stock. Now it is a 4" open hole that air gets rammed through straight to my air box.

I had to take the headlight bezel off and losen the grill and just cut it with wire snips and that was it. Heck of alot cheaper than buying one, and it all still looks stock. I have a K&N to take advantage of the extra flow. Now if I am going 60mph, I get a 60mph load of cold(out side of engine bay) air pushed into the TB. Easy enough, and seems to help.

Exhaust:

As Flowmaster series go up the quieter they get. 50 is less noise that 40 and so on. The 70 series is very quiet. Go to their website and listen to some of their sound clips for examples. Also the bigger the muffler it is the quieter it will be in most cases. I have a magnaflow on my '02 5.3L and it is the small bodied one that it 3" center/center that flows straight through. It is loud under acceleration but fairly queit at 70mph. Turbo styles will even be less noise than a chambered or straight through design. Just some food for thought.
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
Just had 2 post my $.02 worth with a post this technical
so here goes
beg borrow steel a set of 33 or 35 " tires see your increase
next check all your injectors
next i like the gearvendor idea
also ya i agree get that trrqu converter to lock up
+ what u said 2 begin with LET IT BREATH !!!
finnally find that motors power band peak and keep it there
well ill shut up now
and if all else fails go get a diesel
/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

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33's on a 2wd 3/4 burb would look just a tad more redneck than I can go. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
This is a tow vehicle and I got to make sure what I do doesn't effect towing performance. Right now the truck has a set of 235 85x16 inch XCH4 Michelin Hwy tires on it. That's roughly 31 inches tall and the body is pristine and shinny so no cutting will happen. Peak torque on this year was listed as 385lbft at 1600 rpm. 230 hp at 3800 rpm. At 65mph I'm turning about 2700 rpm figuring in a little for torque converter slip. I should be right where I should be for normal cruise. It has a TH400 so no lockup.

With OD I would be right just off peak on the Torque. It would be excelent with OD. So the gear venders is looking better and better! It would let me fee up the exhaust but with the lower cruise RPM's keep me happy with the volume. When I need the power for a hill pop out of OD and I would have all the power I need.
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

The stock muffler is pretty restrictive. if you look down it they neck down to 2 1/2 ro 2 1/4"
A flowmaster 70 series muff is pretty quiet. I have one on my K5' 350' headers' No cat with a turn down right after the muff. My wife complains more about the noise from my mudders than the exhaust /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. It used to be real quiet when the pipe ran out to the stock exit but I tore that up on the rocks /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif So I just thru a turn down on it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

One more thing to add to the surging problem:
If the magnetic pickup coil is going bad it can cause hesitation/surging when cruising in high gear. Pop the dist cap and un plug the green and white wires and check the restance thru the coil. It should be between 500-1500 ohms.
If out of those specs it is bad. Its best to check when the engine is warm because heat increases resistance.

With the stock intake you can drill out the rivits remove the heatriser valve flap then re install the plate, plug the hole and re install the hose to look Ok for smog inspection. Getting rid of the flapper helps increase air flow. Also cutting out the front of the air box as suggested in eariler post helps too. I have done both of these mods with benifical effects.
Keep the K/N dont see how the aimsoil can be any better. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I dont think headers will improve milage much I dont think the cost is worth it.
It can get to a point where it costs more to get a mile per gallon than you will ever make up.
Just try to do things that dont cost much.
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
33's on a 2wd 3/4 burb would look just a tad more redneck than I can go.


[/ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ]
Right now the truck has a set of 235 85x16 inch XCH4 Michelin Hwy tires on it. That's roughly 31 inches tall

[/ QUOTE ] Try some 265-85-16's there like 32.6 inches tall they would fit and would help out your cruise RPM a little bit /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

You are supose to remove the module from the HEI style dist. That is why you are burning them up.

Dan /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
The stock muffler is pretty restrictive. if you look down it they neck down to 2 1/2 ro 2 1/4"
A flowmaster 70 series muff is pretty quiet. I have one on my K5' 350' headers' No cat with a turn down right after the muff. My wife complains more about the noise from my mudders than the exhaust /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. It used to be real quiet when the pipe ran out to the stock exit but I tore that up on the rocks /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif So I just thru a turn down on it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

One more thing to add to the surging problem:
If the magnetic pickup coil is going bad it can cause hesitation/surging when cruising in high gear. Pop the dist cap and un plug the green and white wires and check the restance thru the coil. It should be between 500-1500 ohms.
If out of those specs it is bad. Its best to check when the engine is warm because heat increases resistance.

With the stock intake you can drill out the rivits remove the heatriser valve flap then re install the plate, plug the hole and re install the hose to look Ok for smog inspection. Getting rid of the flapper helps increase air flow. Also cutting out the front of the air box as suggested in eariler post helps too. I have done both of these mods with benifical effects.
Keep the K/N dont see how the aimsoil can be any better. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I dont think headers will improve MPG much I dont think the cost is worth it.
It can get to a point where it costs more to get a mile per gallon than you will ever make up.
Just try to do things that dont cost much.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks I will check the distributor for sure (back to the PO and his Pressure washer). There is some surface corrosion inside the distrbutor housing on the bottom plate. I think he hit it with the pressure washer a few times when the engine was good and hot. Caused some condinsation and corrosion in side the distributor.

Yeah the whole plan is to start with the small in expensive stuff. Document and move on.

I'm trying to stay with the stock exhaust manifolds. They are much quieter by nature then a header. Most headers on the market are all top end gains and no gains where I need them. I agree that they are probably not going to produce much for my application. I also don't want to be installing new manifold gaskets every 6 months LOL.

I may pull that flap out as well. My climate is pretty forgiving. I don't think it's all that needed here. I also may try the TBI coolant by pass I read about on 3rdgen as well. Get the intake load cooled down some.

As for the Smog Nazi's. As long as the rules don't change I'm off the hook. Here in GA if it's over 8500GVWR no emmisions testing needed. I'm rated 8,600.
Course the testing here involves the anal probe, visual for the cat if so equipped and if you find a guy feeling frisky he might look for a EGR stick up on the engine.
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks I will check the distributor for sure (back to the PO and his Pressure washer). There is some surface corrosion inside the distrbutor housing on the bottom plate. I think he hit it with the pressure washer a few times when the engine was good and hot. Caused some condinsation and corrosion in side the distributor.

[/ QUOTE ]

You want to talk easy and cheap, take the cap off, and check the terminals for corrosion and tightness (on the underside of the cap.) If they aren't so bad there is material missing, sand the corrosion off of them. That got rid of a variable idle problem I was having, and cost nothing but about 10 minutes of my time. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
I would put a set of headers on it, along with new exhaust. Single 3" would be the most efficient, but duals would work as well.

[/ QUOTE ]

Single 3" is not enough for a big block. Neither is dual 2 1/2.

I would use 3" duals with a crossover pipe if you can get someone to bend them. They won't go up to stock manifolds, but that's really what is necessary on a big block. Anything smaller is simply too restrictive. If anything, run 3" intermediate pipes and 2 1/2" tailpipes. You might not need 3" tailpipes, but you'll definitely need to be 3" forward of the muffler to get the major improvements.

Headers will gain you across the RPM range, not just at high RPM. The big gains of course are going to be up there in the RPM range, but reducing exhaust restriction from the stock manifolds will help tremendously. I run manifolds on my 1 ton, but it has a 350. If it had a big block, there would be no other way to go but headers. Honestly, manifolds are simply too restrictive for such a large engine.

Your mufflers DON'T have to be loud. There are many choices for quiet, free flowing mufflers. Flowmasters are some of the poorest flowing mufflers on the market. I think you'll be happy with the Hemi Super Turbos. They flow better than Flowmasters and are quiet. Summit's fully welded mufflers may also work out great for you. Dynomax makes a good welded muffler for $60, but I think that will be too loud for your tastes.

I suppose if you could find a way to go from dual 3" to a 3 1/2" single and then into a single 3" tailpipe you could stay with a single exhaust. Otherwise, dual 3" into 2 1/2" is the best way to go.
 
Ok Looks like I found the serge

Well I went to BUY at MAP from the dealer. They didn't have it in stock. He looked at my like I was nuts wanting one. He told me those almost never go bad then proceds to pull up how many he has ordered in the last 1.5 years...TWO.

Tells me to go out to the service bay and ask about the problem.

So I go out there. Service guy at the dest listens to me. Calls up one of the Mechanics. Jeff. Same mechanic that save my company about $ 800 in a head work for a stuck valve in my old Service van. In that case before he went ripping the heads off he ran a couple cans of top end engine cleaner through it and got the valve unstuck. Total bill was $80 including the diagnostic and new plugs. A truely decent mechanic that goes the extra step for customers.

So I talk to the guy for about 5 minutes. Tells me the MAPS are a work or no work item in most cases. Tells me to try the EGR first. Something I was going to do but just hadn't. So I yank the line off the EGR and ran smooth all the way home. It did throw a light for the EGR but he told me it would. Jumped out at a light and hooked it back up and it was back.

Now I just need to determine if it's the actual EGR or the controler. Jeff was pretty confidnet that it was a cracked diaphram and not the controler since I didn't have a problem at idle. Then the fun. The EGR studs are rusted up REAL bad and a good chance I'll snap them off. The truck has had a leak at the water neck and all that stuff runs right up to the EGR and caused the rust. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Now I don't think this is going to give me any MPG gain. Just get rid of the serge.
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

Thanks for that EGR info....

Up here GM MAP was like $70 and Auto Zone was $22....

I'm not disagreeing with the mechanic, just giving you more information /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
Re: OK I\'m Hacked. MPG stuff.

[ QUOTE ]
Ok so most of have read my burb thread. I'm getting 10 mpg in a 454 burb with TH400, 3.73 gears and 31 inch tall tires. Engine has 72k on it. It has been maintained fairly well by the PO.

The MPG is true. I verified the miles with my GPS so it's not odometer error.

Now everybody here says 10mpg hwy is normal. Well I think there is more and here is why. I also hang out on a RV forum for Airstreams. These guys with 27-31ft 16,000lb motor homes are pulling 11-12 on the hwy with CARBS and I should be able to pull at least that in a vehicle with the same engine (with FI) and tranny and 10,000 less pounds!

[/ QUOTE ]

This may be kind of obvious but you didn't mention what the speeds were when you compared mpg. If you're traveling ~70mph towing & they're traveling ~55mph then ~10mpg isn't too bad.

I, for one, simply don't believe they're actually getting over ~10mpg. Certainly not in a vehicle with that kind of frontal area.They're either smoking something or engaging in some EXTREMELY wishful thinking!!!

One of the other posters recommended a 265/75 tire size to reduce rpms but an even better choice, IMO, would be a 255/85 tire size which is just under 33" in diameter & only 10mm (<1/2") wider than a 245 & 20mm (<1") wider than a 235.

FWIW, I think the header/exhaust/intake recommendations are right on target. From what I've read the 454 in stock form is majorly (hyuk) restricted.

Good luck in your quest.
 
How the hell do you test the EGR controler?

I'm not sure if I cured it or not. Stupid shop manual tells you how to check the Valve but it's real scetchy on the solonoid /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
The Valve actually checked out fine according to the way the book says to test it. The solonoide basicly says to meter it out. If it draws less then 20ohm's it's bad. It wasn't. I tried to get the solonoid to open while I was checking for vac. No dice.
Nothing made sense when trying to test the solonoid off the truck with a hand vac. I could draw air though both ports. That right there doesn't make sense unless the valve is open without power and switches closed at idle by being energized.
I did put a couple drops of tool oil in it thinking it might be jamming and could use some lubricant.

Well took it for a test drive. No light and I was having a hard time telling if the serge was gone or not. We are having some good wind gusts. Couldn't decide if it was a serge or a head wind. It really seems to be worse when it's hot and it was cool and humid when I drove it. Power seemed better.

Anyway I'll drive it for a couple day's and see what it does. If it comes back it's a bad control solonoid.

Stopped by the muffler shop. Peice of 3 inch pipe laying on the shop floor. See if I have time to install it tomorrow and see if the cat is plugged and maybe mess with the manifold gaskets. Then I can see how much power and gas the cat sucks up for the second MPG run.
 
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