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OK This is becoming irritating

The primary mix is handled with a control solenoid, no "rods/jets" like the older ones.

As to the high idle issue, if you put force on it like you are trying to close it, does it idle back down? I've heard of a few people having to do this (buddy was one) and resolved it with a spring going the opposite direction from the throttle plate.
 
Yeah if I blip it real quick it will go back down, but if I put slight throttle it goes back or when I start driving it will go back up unless I hit the pedal real fast then it will drop again
 
I mean if you reach into the engine bay and force the throttle closed with your hand does it go back to the normal idle. Not enough force to bend anything, just as much as you'd expect from a fairly light spring pulling that direction.

I messed around with my buddies that was doing this, and I had rebuilt the carb. Nothing appeared to be binding or excessively loose, and it wasn't the choke holding closed, but for some reason a tiny bit of force was required for the throttle to hit the idle set screw. You can look at that when it's high idling, if it's not resting on that screw, it will be pretty obvious.
 
Ok looked at it and the throttle is holding it high, how did you fix this?where did you put that spring? or is there a way to loosen tension somehow on that throttle linkage so it will fall back to where it is supposed to be?
 
I vote lube up the throttle linkage and put on another spring to hold the linkage back on the idle screw.
 
Yep, pretty much that is the solution. IIRC, my buddy ended up getting a thermostat housing with a loop on it that looked made for this? I can't remember, it was quite some time back. I just know it was somewhere forward of the carb. Maybe the engine hoist plate if they were put there?

There should be no tension on that linkage with the choke fully open, (as you attested to by pulling the choke completely off and having the exact same problem) so you should need VERY little pressure to hold it shut, light enough that it doesn't affect pedal feel.

Check out the throttle return spring(s) already in action on the carb, ONE of that style is probably weak enough and stretchy enough to reach where you need it to.
 
Ok lubed up the linkages and put on a new spring and it works better but still does'nt quite go back all the way, also the idle is backed off so much that it does'nt even touch the linkage when its all the down. These are'nt supposed to be that hard are they. Is there anything else that could cause it to hold up like. I put on a pretty hard spring and it does affect pedal feel with this spring, it just does'nt seem like it should take that much pressure to return, I'm also going to talk to dude at JET that built that carb and see what he says
 
No, it may be something a bit more difficult, like a warped throttle body that is just putting enough drag on the shaft to keep it open a hair. I really don't know what the cause was of my friends problem, if it had been my carb it would have been off as many times as necessary to correct the problem.

My buddies that I rebuilt had no noticeable problems on the bench, but on the vehicle it was certainly there. IMO that is impossible to see on the bench, it is just such a small problem and the mechanics involved are too minimal to replicate conditions accurately.
 
Do they say that the carbs are dyno tested or anything along those lines?

Have you sent it back already, or...?

Just curious if you did take it off, and didn't send it back yet, if you took the choke off again, can you replicate the problem somehow? I don't see how this would prove anything, but be interesting if you can actually figure a way out to test it before you spend time putting another on.
 
I'm actually not sure if they test them or not and I'll be taking it off this saturday because its my only mode of transportation, but the wierd part is that if the truck is off I really don't notice it sticking but still doesn't go all the way to the screw. I'm wondering if maybe the throttle shaft or bushing is bent or something? But if they don't fix this I'm just gonna get my money back and go through recarbco probably, ever used those guys or heard about their quality of work?
 
I've heard of recarbco, but no idea how good they are.

Jet is a highly recommended company, I'd ask if they'd swap you carbs and give you another. If you can see the throttle plates sticking (gap at the idle set screw) with the truck off, then it should be pretty easy to get a replacement I'd think.

One other thing, assume you already tried, but what happens if you remove the throttle cable and try? It may not be sticky or anything, but may be a hair too short, or the carb linkage is, etc. Shot in the dark, but quick and easy to try.
 
I'll ask if they have another and I have taken off the throttle and everything else that is connected to it(throttle cable, cruise control,etc.) and the linkage itself sticks, it doesnt go back all the way so do you think I should give JET another chance?
 
I'd give them another chance. I doubt they go through many of the CCC carbs, so probably why they didn't just swap it out.

Now that you know exactly what it is doing, and they will be able to replicate that, I can't see why they wouldn't stand behind their product and do whatever to make you happy. It's not asking much when there is something so obviously wrong with the carb. Might pay to take the stamped in numbers down that are on it, just in case. (if they are still there)
 
Ok took the JET one off and looked all over the linkages connected to the throttle, no sticking, no binding, snaps right back down:laugh:

So I put the Jet one back on, does the same thing(throttle linkage sticks):doah:

Turn truck off, linkage goes back to normal:confused:

So I take the JET one back off and put my original one back on, idles smoother and the throttle linkage does not stick:confused:

Why does it do this?:dunno:

Heres a comparison, :deal: JET one gets better MPG, has a little better power and better throttle response but throttle sticks and the choke on theirs is a piece of *^%( (put my old choke on it and it worked better...)

My original idles much smoother, choke works better, worse MPG, and not as good throttle response and a little less power

Could there just be something simple wrong with the one I have now to make it better and just tell them to give me my money back or...?
 
JET gets a thumbs down from me

Ok well with further inspection of the carb I am very dissappointed:mad: in the overall quality of it as it has about three bent vacuum hookup points, the machining on the bottom looks like a$$, the top of it near the APT adjustment looks chewed up,:eek: and you can hear a point in it where it sounds like it stops and has play in it up until the point where it holds:thinking: . So without further adue I am just going to get my money back and go with recarbco.

Thanks for the help though, it is highly appreciated
 
Let us know how the recarbco one works!

Sounds almost like the engine vacuum is pulling the throttle plates open, but unless you've got cruise control not working right, I can't imagine why.
 
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