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OK to use RTV on a rubber gasket???--and Autozone Rocks!
- Thread starter diesel4me
- Start date
Too late--there is a thin film of it on the oilpan gasket.If it leaks I will just burn the truck /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif--I've about had it with this swap--the power steering hose wont work from the six cylinder,unless I make an adaper from some 3/8 brakeline tubing,the accelerator cable and the detent cable are both too long,wont work--I might have those hanging around here somewhere,but it would be easier to find Jimmy Hoffa probably--had to spend an hour to make a plate to block off the EGR valve so the edlebrock carb would fit,another hour trying to put in the starter,it hit the oilpan(pass,side dipstick)luckily I pirated the starter from the van the motor came from,and it has a delco rebuilt sticker on it, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifthe nose is tilted ever so slightly compared to the six cylinder starter,just enough so it misses the bulge in the pan for the dipstick--if there is anything I have learned from all the motor swaps I've done,besides the fact you will be greasy and sore for a week,its best to buy the whole truck the motor is coming from,that way you have all the parts you need right at hand--I have worn 2 ruts in the road to the boneyard in the past week or so,and every trip there is gaurenteed to waste at least 2 hours,and piss you off when you see trucks better than yours being crushed! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I think I will have to take a day off from this swap,I need to recover--I havent done this much physical labor in quite a while,and my body is telling me in no uncertain terms that its had enough of this for awhile.Even though this truck is worth the effort because it has a decent body and all--I still kinda wish I had dumped it with the blown motor--I'm getting too old to be doing this crap anymore--I can buy other trucks in similar condition from the used car friend of mine for about the same price as this motor and all the other parts to get it in there cost--and NO WORK OR AGGRAVATION! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif.The part I hated most about this is it was an unmolested,original truck,I hated to start changing everything,but I didnt have much choice--finding a six cylinder of the same vintage is nearly impossible,even finding this 305 was a challenge.Guess its the price you have to pay for wanting to drive an old vehicle.I just pray this swap turns out ok,it should--I've done enough of them,but this one seems to have been the worst so far for some reason--even my van didnt seem this bad,though it did have motor mount issues that took a day to solve with a metal plate.After all the things that didnt fit this truck,I probably should have put the caddy 500 motor and tranny in it,dont think it would have been that much harder-. /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Yeah, I had to get a clutch slave cylinder replaced- cost me 255 with labor and tax. here's the breakdown
120 for the part, 5 dollar for "fluids" and the rest is labor.
How much does autozone charge for the part? 69 retail, commerical account 60. So the shop made an additional 60+4 64 dollars to do a 1 hour job in 1.5 hours.
This is why if I could have fixed it myself, I would have. And this is why places like pepboys with service bays will stay in business because they dont charge outstanding prices for parts. The independent shops charge an arm and a leg for parts, on top of repairs.
Its not that I dont mind paying a few bucks more here and there for parts, for a guy who knows who you are and which vehicle you have- Its that I dont like being taken for a sucker.
120 for the part, 5 dollar for "fluids" and the rest is labor.
How much does autozone charge for the part? 69 retail, commerical account 60. So the shop made an additional 60+4 64 dollars to do a 1 hour job in 1.5 hours.
This is why if I could have fixed it myself, I would have. And this is why places like pepboys with service bays will stay in business because they dont charge outstanding prices for parts. The independent shops charge an arm and a leg for parts, on top of repairs.
Its not that I dont mind paying a few bucks more here and there for parts, for a guy who knows who you are and which vehicle you have- Its that I dont like being taken for a sucker.
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
[ QUOTE ]
How much does autozone charge for the part? 69 retail, commerical account 60.
[/ QUOTE ]
A commercial account would not get a 10% discount on a part. They probably paid $68.74 for the same part.
Like I said before Autozone doesn't believe in giving parts to commercial account cheaper, and they really don't. They mark the parts down to $59.73, $64.87, and $53.44 or something, just anything but a .99 number so that the customers think the computer is selling them parts like a "jobber" type store would on a pre-set sales margin.
The reality is that they are simply giving that illusion and that a commercial account will rarely ever know that a "courtesy discount" of 10% that can be given to any customer for any reason will make the part cheaper for a walk-in guy.
That said, the worse places for parts markup are joints like Midas, Merlin, Mylex, etc. They're expected to get 2.5 times what they paid for the parts when they sell them to the customers, so of course they always want the cheapest possible part.
How much does autozone charge for the part? 69 retail, commerical account 60.
[/ QUOTE ]
A commercial account would not get a 10% discount on a part. They probably paid $68.74 for the same part.
Like I said before Autozone doesn't believe in giving parts to commercial account cheaper, and they really don't. They mark the parts down to $59.73, $64.87, and $53.44 or something, just anything but a .99 number so that the customers think the computer is selling them parts like a "jobber" type store would on a pre-set sales margin.
The reality is that they are simply giving that illusion and that a commercial account will rarely ever know that a "courtesy discount" of 10% that can be given to any customer for any reason will make the part cheaper for a walk-in guy.
That said, the worse places for parts markup are joints like Midas, Merlin, Mylex, etc. They're expected to get 2.5 times what they paid for the parts when they sell them to the customers, so of course they always want the cheapest possible part.
Autozone will also match prices--I needed a radiator for my younger brothers 94 dodge shadow,they wanted 150 bucks,so I called another place a few towns away that has good deals on heater cores and radiators--they said 110 bucks,for a modine brand--autozone matched their price,but their radiator was made in china though--but it wasnt going in my car,so I didnt care--it blew a head gasket a few months later anyway(might be my next nightmare project!~)--hope it didnt wreck the radiator,thats one reason I didnt want to spend a lot of money for a name brand one,since it might get trashed anyway--.They dont advertise the fact they will match prices though--and they didnt tell me about the cheaper version of the fel-pro gasket until I asked about it,when I heard about them on here,so I guess they try to push the higher price stuff to some degree too---. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
When I worked at Autozone I'd generally push the cheap stuff because that's what most customers want, if I knew the guy I'd offer the better stuff.
When I worked at Carquest I always pushed/sold the cheap stuff because I knew the sales margins were better.
When I worked at Carquest I always pushed/sold the cheap stuff because I knew the sales margins were better.
