ok. who can help with my idle / air / fuel problem. videos and pics inside

[01maroonz71]

well, yesterday i went to get my truck out of storage(i filled her up with gas 2 weeks ago, right before i put it in storage) i fired her up to pull her out, and it was leaking fuel onto the pass valve cover. i ran to the auto parts store to pick up a new filter and line and got her fired up, drove her home about 12 miles, but it was idleing low at stop lights. a few times i bumped it into N to get the revs up. pulling into my driveway it died on me, and i had to rev it trying to get it to start up so i could get it out of the road.

well, last night i couldn't get it to start without carb cleaner, or hitting the go pedal. and it wont idle unless i have the idle turned up over 1k rpm.

today, i fixed a vacuum leak that was running out of the drivers side of the car. i also hooked the vac. gauge back up.

anyhow. here are a few vids and some pictures. any ideas?


http://vid282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/bubble4rd/3787CA7C-D03B-46B2-9378-908E143C63D6.mp4

that is the first video. i hope i can get the other one to upload.

 

[01maroonz71]

ok. here are a few pics of my setup.

i dropped this brand new GM crate motor in 8 years ago before i sold it, the next owner swapped the vortec heads on, and it appears to be the same mallory ignition setup and edelbrock carb(1406) that i had installed when i put the motor in. i recently bought it back, and am trying to get her back to her glory, including a cab swap, etc. the motor ran great when i first bought it back a few weeks ago, but i did only drive it probably 40 miles total.

anyhow. here you go....

i should also note that i posted some of my problems last night and babaganush thought i had rust in my tank, but my fuel does look pretty good.

 

[01maroonz71]

and....the last video....

http://vid282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/bubble4rd/02454D51-D98B-4338-86ED-59C457EAF274.mp4

 

[01maroonz71]

ok. timing with the vac advance unhooked on the dizzy and the plug side plugged timing is around 16 at 1000 rpm. vac is also around 16. both of these numbers fluctuate a little since the idle jumps around a little.

 

[01maroonz71]

when i hook the vac advance back u to the dizzy it advances the timing to around 41 or 42. i took it for a spin around the block, and it tries to creep when stopped, so you have to apply the brakes real hard. it also "dieseled" when i put it back in the driveway.

 

[dremu]

First up, that looks like a ballast resistor on the coil and really small wire (#18? #20?) feeding it. Unless there's a fatter wire going to the coil I didn't see.

Stock HEI's *really* don't take kindly to either resistor or small feed wires, donno why your fancy aftermarket one has that. Maybe it's supposed to, but it seems wrong to me. Were it me, I'd pull the ignition crap off and make it stock, whether coil-on-cap or external. Stock HEI's want a minimum of 10V at the coil input, I think I read. Lower voltage at the coil means lower voltage at the plugs and intermittent or no spark.

Past that, base timing should be more like 8 or 10 degrees, IIRC. You're running way before that, which could be related to the dieseling. That can also be from running hot which can be caused by any number of things including the timing being off. (The workaround for dieseling, btw, is to turn it off in gear and then move to park.)

First figure out your ignition, then get the base timing dialled in. After that you can set the idle, then recheck the timing as they're inter-related.

Once you have that all done you can go on. Again, no idea about your aftermarket dizzy, but a stock HEI might need to be recurved by replacing the springs inside. It's a whole bunch of trial and error cycles, but the spring kit is less than ten bucks and lets you dial in the ignition for your specific motor/fuel delivery/etc.

But you gotta get the base set first, otherwise you're just randomly doing stuff, one of which affects the next and you can make things worse.

-- A

 

[Blue85]

Where is the spark box/module? Can you measure the voltage to that? Using crimp-on terminals and butt-splice connections on the ignition wiring is OK for a trail fix but can't be expected to keep working for a long time.

 

[01maroonz71]

i will get a better look tomm after work in the daylight. it's pouring outside right now. i will take a look at the ignition setup and see exactly what the PO did here. thanks so much guys.