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Old Chevy radiator, are these repairable?

fordsucks!

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My 1980 has a giant, old looking radiator. It has sprung a leak. Are these radiators repairable, or am I really going to have to replace with the modern-day thin one with plastic tanks?

My current one looks like it has plastic tanks, but I hit it end tank and dented it, I don't think it can be plastic if I can Dent it?. They might be some kind of thin metal? But a magnet does not stick to it

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I had my 79 radiator rebuilt from a local shop back in 2004, still in use in my blazer today.
 
I doubt it these days, but back then getting a radiator boiled and pressure tested was common, no so much anymore.
 
Last I checked to have a truck copper/brass radiator (an 80's small block standard size) recored, was $500. I went with the ~$100 parts store lifetime warranty plastic/AL unit. First one leaked (big surprise) the next one has been going a couple years now.

The plastic units from the factory have significantly thicker/more reinforced tanks, and apparently that varies based on who is making them in the aftermarket. The aftermarket one I have (first was Spectra supposedly, this one I don't know) the tank flexes with finger pressure, and when hooked up, swells if I squeeze the upper hose.

I have a thread about my travails with the aftermarket plastic/AL radiators, I think the main thing is to ensure you are not squashing the tanks with the upper mounts (I had to shim my mount brackets, up) and that there is no contact of the radiator ANYWHERE except on the rubber mounts.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/radiator-what-to-do.331402/
 
Find a local radiator shop. They are getting sparse these days. But they are out there. Kind of like turning rotors. With cheap offshore manufacturing it's not really worth turning them anymore.
Anyway, a local radiator shop should be able to set you up for a reasonable cost.
 
I've soldered mine myself when they sprung leaks--used a propane torch and 50/50 solder (which is hard to find now,few stores sell it due to the lead content,all they sell for house plumbing now is a silver based solder--I buy up all the old rolls at flea markets to keep on hand)..

You can use paste flux like used on copper pipes,but "tinners fluid" works a lot better--basically its battery acid ,diluted quite a bit,it really cleans the brass & copper and lets the solder penetrate and flow a lot better..

There used to be several radiator shops around here,but since its been 20 years since I had one leak,I haven't had to see if any still exist now..I'd do my best to keep the brass radiator as long as the fins and tanks are still in decent condition..
 
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