Whittler
Registered Member
I'm close to doing my engine swap. I'm pulling my 305 and putting in a 1974 sbc 350. I have the correct flex plate for the swap but will the torque converter from my 305 work on the 350?
CK5
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Old school engine question.
- Thread starter Whittler
- Start date
Whittler
Registered Member
Sorry probably didn't give enough information.
It's an 86 K5 with a 700r4. The sbc had a Muncie 4 speed behind it.
It's an 86 K5 with a 700r4. The sbc had a Muncie 4 speed behind it.
I swaped the 305 to a 350 in my 86 used the same converter
make sure the bushing is out of the end of the crank were the input use to ride for man trans .
don't think it be a problem . but be a big b!tch fest if it was when your down in and about done .
don't think it be a problem . but be a big b!tch fest if it was when your down in and about done .
Provided your '86 305 did not have the one piece rear main seal,the flex plate off it would bolt up to the older 350 with no troubles..
If it did have a one piece rear main seal,the bolt pattern and hole in the center of the flex plate is different compared to engines made before '85 with the two piece rear main seal..
And yes,you'll want to remove the clutch pilot bushing from the crank,otherwise it will make it difficult or impossible to get the torque converter to bolt up,its center pilot hub will hit it..
A puller is the best tool to get one out,but I have screwed a tap in them and used a bolt to pull it out-I just tightened the bolt with an air gun and it pulled it right out..
If it did have a one piece rear main seal,the bolt pattern and hole in the center of the flex plate is different compared to engines made before '85 with the two piece rear main seal..
And yes,you'll want to remove the clutch pilot bushing from the crank,otherwise it will make it difficult or impossible to get the torque converter to bolt up,its center pilot hub will hit it..
A puller is the best tool to get one out,but I have screwed a tap in them and used a bolt to pull it out-I just tightened the bolt with an air gun and it pulled it right out..
Whittler
Registered Member
Thanks for the responses! I did pull the pilot bearing already.
Whittler
Registered Member
I'm editing this post because I really wanted to thank ya"ll for actually answering my questions and not beating me up for not searching for an answer. I work a lot and I'm trying to do this build on a tight budget, I don't want to waste my money or time. I really appreciate this group of people.
Most of us here have been there too,and we all try our best to help others "plan ahead" so they wont get stonewalled halfway through a project--or worse,have to take it apart again and start over..
I've learned a lot here over the years,and the members here are good teachers,and don't bust your nads if your not that well educated on vehicles..
When I first got my diesel pickup,I knew squat about diesels..
But with the help of some members here familiar with them,I was able to get mine running and keep it running..if not for them,I'd have ended up swapping a gas engine in the truck probably.
Its hard though--despite Chevy being one of the most "interchangeable" engines ,there are a LOT of minor differences that were made over the years,and only "some" parts will work right,even though they might bolt together OK...examples are the externally balanced flywheels on a 400 small block and the 454..they'll bolt up to just about any other chevy engine,but wont work right,it'll shake the engine off its mounts and possibly bust the crank..
One guy I know put some used rocker arms off a 400 small block on his 283 when one of the originals broke,and couldn't figure out why it now idled rough...turns out only the 400 has a different rocker arm ratio than all the other small blocks,and the valves with those rockers were opening more than the other 14 valves,so it wouldn't idle right..
He put three different carbs on it and it ran the same..then he told me how "it ran perfect till I messed with those rocker arms"..I happened to know they were different despite looking the same--I gave him some rockers I had off a 305 and it ran nice again..two local garages insisted his cam had flat lobes and he should "just junk that motor"..
..
I've learned a lot here over the years,and the members here are good teachers,and don't bust your nads if your not that well educated on vehicles..
When I first got my diesel pickup,I knew squat about diesels..
But with the help of some members here familiar with them,I was able to get mine running and keep it running..if not for them,I'd have ended up swapping a gas engine in the truck probably.
Its hard though--despite Chevy being one of the most "interchangeable" engines ,there are a LOT of minor differences that were made over the years,and only "some" parts will work right,even though they might bolt together OK...examples are the externally balanced flywheels on a 400 small block and the 454..they'll bolt up to just about any other chevy engine,but wont work right,it'll shake the engine off its mounts and possibly bust the crank..
One guy I know put some used rocker arms off a 400 small block on his 283 when one of the originals broke,and couldn't figure out why it now idled rough...turns out only the 400 has a different rocker arm ratio than all the other small blocks,and the valves with those rockers were opening more than the other 14 valves,so it wouldn't idle right..
He put three different carbs on it and it ran the same..then he told me how "it ran perfect till I messed with those rocker arms"..I happened to know they were different despite looking the same--I gave him some rockers I had off a 305 and it ran nice again..two local garages insisted his cam had flat lobes and he should "just junk that motor"..
..
Lose that tiny air filter unless you like giving up horsepower for no reason.
Martin
Martin
Whittler
Registered Member
I'm so close to putting this on board, that my hands are starting to shake!
