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Older CDR valve boot

MrSchaeferPants

MrSchaeferPants

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Had a lot of oil in the intake, so I took apart the CDR valve and hoses/tubes to check it out. The boot that goes from the 1" opening and has the two 3/4" openings for the tubes to mannifold was destroyed (which explained all the oil/crud in that area. So until I get a hold of a J intake and do the swap, I plan on making a new boot, sort of.

Only way I can think of is building one out of rubber hose and schedule 40 pvc.Think it'll get too hot and brittle and get destroyed? Currently I just have the intake ports plugged. And the CDR is in place, only connected to the oil tube. But I have IMO a lot of blow by, and I don't want all of that shooting down all over my alternator.

And it steams like a train after warmed up anyway. After I disconnected it all last night I drove to Orileys to get some oil change stuff and a new air filter and when I got home and parked, I could see the oil vapor steaming around my headlight beams. But other than that, it runs just fine, starts great, idles great, etc. Just a lot of blow by imo.

But the real question is the pcv homemade boot. Or should I just keep one port on the intake plugged, and have one hose running from CDR to intake, instead of the two.
 
A home made fitting made of PVC plastic might live,or might not,depending on the temparature it will see...in a colder climate a diesel runs pretty cool compared to a gas engine,but in summer heat and at high speeds it may well run hotter,thats when you'll have problems if it dont like the heat...many later model vehicles use brittle plastic fittings that crumble after a few years of heat ,I hate plastic fittings on heater hoses,manifolds and other parts,they suck!..

Perhaps you can still buy a new boot from GM or one of the online sources like Rock Auto or one of the military surplus sites,etc..or make one from a copper T fitting and hose or something similar.....maybe find a useable one from a junkyard?....

I wouldn't "delete" the CDR valve because if you have as much blowby as you say,it might cause a "runaway" condition,where the engine will start running off its own blowby fumes and keep speeding up,with no real way to shut it down without covering up the intake opening with something sturdy like a hunk of wood!...seen a few VW diesels run away like that,they just started racing,until they blew a rod thru the block...turning the key off has no effect once it starts running away!..:eek:..
 
Depending on your J code, you'll still likely need that 2to 1 boot.

If you can't get it figured out, I have a couple of those rubber boots here I'm no longer using.
 
I didn't plan on deleting it, I just wasn't going to put it back together for a run to the parts store with the boot mangled up. So not all J code manifolds have the single hose hook up for the CDR?

I thought about pvc cause I have a bunch of 1" and 3/4" laying around, all I'd need would be some new hose. But I guess I could try to find some copper fittings, could probably build something. But since it's more of an upside down "F" shape than "T", might be limited, bunch of copper fittings could make it large

Think I'll skip using another rubber boot. Perhaps with some fittings I can make my own oil catch so less oil gets to the mannifold. Like an upside down "F" shape with a P trap clean out :haha:

I get carried away.
 
Not sure if the respective connection sizes could be worked out, but what about making it with copper sweat fittings?
 
BadDog said:
Not sure if the respective connection sizes could be worked out, but what about making it with copper sweat fittings?
Click to expand...
Would work too. My homemade one didn't fit, it ended up being too large to fit there.

I might give in and see if I could get one of those boots, herkdriver007.
 
I only have one hose now leading to the turbo inlet.
 
80' 427 said:
I only have one hose now leading to the turbo inlet.
Click to expand...

Yeah been looking all this up. The C code I have is a dual plane, so if I only hooked it up to one port on the intake, all that stuff would only be sucking into half the engine. I've been looking to find a single plane J code online somewhere.

Shame I had a bad 6.2 in my CUCV, sold all that stuff when I put the 350 in, but even then, read the air box doesn't fit right anyway. I could get away with a 1" T with 3/4 outlets, and just use hose to the intake instead of those metal tubes.
 
mrschaeferpants said:
Yeah been looking all this up. The C code I have is a dual plane, so if I only hooked it up to one port on the intake, all that stuff would only be sucking into half the engine. I've been looking to find a single plane J code online somewhere.

Shame I had a bad 6.2 in my CUCV, sold all that stuff when I put the 350 in, but even then, read the air box doesn't fit right anyway. I could get away with a 1" T with 3/4 outlets, and just use hose to the intake instead of those metal tubes.
Click to expand...

You want a single plane J code intake...:whistle:
 
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