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Ongoing frontend saga

Stomis

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Horray, the shackle angle is fixed. Everything is nice and tight. But where is that clunk coming from now? Thats a good fing question maybe you guys can help like you usually do.

So as you know I was having steering trouble and a clunk. I thought I found the clunk in my draglink sleeve. One of the clamps was loose. So I tightened that up and my problems seem like they are just moving down the line...

Now I'm getting a clunk, nowheres near as bad as it was. Me and my friend did some left, ok now right ok left again for a good 20mins trying to find it. We narrowed it down to the driver side knuckle or steering arm. Theres a slight jump in it and I think its the entire knuckle.

This obviously means balljoints, BUT I just did them less than 3000miles ago.

Could my bad caster angle be causing this to jump like that. I havent even wheeled the truck really. Its just been street driven.

Is it possible my balljoint(s) went bad that fast? Theres no deathwobble at all though.

any input or help would be appreciated.
 
Jack that side up and see if you can move the knuckle top and bottom and side to side. There shouldn't be any movement by hand really.

Could be bad TRE or DLE
Loose wheel bearings
Bad balljoint/s
Crack around steering box
Loose steering box
 
Jack that side up and see if you can move the knuckle top and bottom and side to side. There shouldn't be any movement by hand really.

Could be bad TRE or DLE
Loose wheel bearings
Bad balljoint/s
Crack around steering box
Loose steering box

Its not tre or dle they are all brand new. I'll double check the bearings. The steering is all god as I just went through all that. The box is tight, and has a weld in brace.

I guess its down to the balljoints then. Whats the best, heavy duty ones I can get? Any chance that the nut on the balljoint could have loosened up?
 
when you put in the bal joints, did you have the tool to adjust the castle sleeve?
 
when you put in the bal joints, did you have the tool to adjust the castle sleeve?

I didnt do the balljoints. My two friends did them (who are both knowledgable and mechanically inclined) I do have the tool though. My problem appears to be coming from the lower one.

Could not adjusting that castle nut leave them loose or cause premature wear? Any chance I could tighten up on that to take the slack?
 
Hmm will adjusting the balljoint preload also tighten up on the lower balljoint? The play really seems like its coming from the knuckle where it meets the axle. Not the wheel on the knuckle.
 
you need to back off the preload sleeve, then tighten the lower ball joint nut, then tighten preload sleeve to spec and tighten top nut.
 
Alright think theres any chance this could save the BJ's? I mean I never thought it was possibly to kill them in 2000miles.

If I need new ones should I go with MOOG's from work or spicers from bronco graveyard?
 
I gotta see how much they are. I know everything else I priced from moog is way overpriced. Especially since spicers I know are still good and they are only $40 a side.
 
When are you experiencing the clunk?? Straight driving or while turning the steering wheel??
 
Don't just look at the parts as they turn side to side- put your hand on them and feel them. As the 1st guy said- Jack the front up and grab each tire at 12 and 6 and try pushing up and back (toward center of truck) to feel any play.
 
Have you checked the u-bolts. I had a really loud pop up front while turning the steering wheel, thought it was balljoints, they were all brand new. Turned out that my drivers side u-bolts were just loose enough to cause enough movement to make a pop noise when i turned the steering wheel.


Cheers!
 

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